Rear Wheel Problem

Fulltimer

Fulltimer

New Member
If I grab the top and the bottom of the wheel, when mounted, and push the top and pull the bottom, I have play in the mount. If I really tighten the outside nuts the play goes away but I can't pedal the bike. Loosen it up so I can pedal, the play comes back.

There is something that I am over looking. You know "Can't see the forest for the trees" type thing.

Suggestions?

Terry
 
If you cannot find the sweet spot when setting the bearing cone position, I recommend complete teardown, cleaning, and inspection of the hub. The bearings may be worn out. A teardown and thorough cleaning in solvent is the best way to assess it's condition.
It really is not that hard to do either. I recommend using either an old ice cube tray or egg crate to set out the parts in order of dis-assembly during teardown so you can more easily assemble it back in order later on.
 
Everything is new back there. Although I did take out the brake pads and the brake arm. That arm may be the problem.

Terry
 
With the brake pads removed you really have no need for the arm anymore. The arm only prevents the left race (which acts as a rotation stop for the brake pads) from turning with the wheel when the coaster brake is applied. Do you have both left side and right side jamb nuts tightened sufficiently against the bearing races?
Is the clutch/ cone unit installed backwards?
One last thought, if you have installed the bearings with the closed side of the bearing cage facing inwards, that is backwards. The closed or covered side of the bearing cage needs to be facing outwards or else the cage will just get forced into the outer race which is also the outer shell of the hub. When you try to pre-load the bearings properly you will end up locking the hub up solid.
With the bearings installed backwards you will need to set the bearing pre-load up wobbly loose in order for it to rotate and it still will have a grinding sound and feel to it.
 
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I'll check out the bearings tomorrow they could very well be in backwards. I'm sure the clutch is in correctly. Or at least I think so. Thanks for the info!

Terry
 
Both of my new retail store bikes had virtually no grease in the wheel bearings and the cones were tightened too tight causing bearing/cone damage if no corrected.
 
The inside bearing was in backward and the outside bearing needs to be replaced. Once I get a new one for the outside I'll know if that fixes it. My locale bike shops are not open on Sunday so I guess I'll have to wait until Monday.

Terry
 
Drewd said:
Both of my new retail store bikes had virtually no grease in the wheel bearings and the cones were tightened too tight causing bearing/cone damage if no corrected.
Click to expand...

Good call on the grease! A coaster brake hub is impossible to over pack with grease, In fact, get as much high temperature disc brake grease (or better if you can get it) as you can fit in there. Any excess will just get oozed out when you re-assemble the hub and you can wipe it clean with a rag.

As far as the cones being too tight, I have watched the bicycle assemblers at my work and they never, ever, check the bearing pre-load. They have a quota to meet and just slap the bikes together as fast as possible. Quantity over quality.
 
Fulltimer, doe's this look anything like your axle. Less the brake shoe's of course!

11014_small.jpg


Peace Crazy Horse. brnot
 
That seems pretty close to what I have. But, I'm doing away with the coaster brakes. That is causing me a lot of grief!

Terry
 
I think what we (I) need is a sticky that has lots of pictures and words. A step by step instruction on the elimination of a coaster brake. I was told to put in a spring but not what size or exactly where to put it.

If all else fails I can sell the rim, new Worksman 12g, and spend $140.00 to buy another Worksman without a coaster break. Some choice right? :-)

Terry
 
I put in the new bearing and still had the wobble. Inside the hub I had 3 washers to take up the slack when the brake pads were removed. I removed 1 of the washers and remounted the wheel for the 100th time. No wobble and I can peddle backwards like I wanted. Now there are just 1 or 2 minor adjustments to make and I should be good to go.

Terry
 
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