Ready For performance!

[rogergendron1]

here is what d ports look like , when building a preformance 4 stroke race bike this is a great port shape, with a piston port 2 stroke single cylinder with a single intake port the d port works just as good with optimum results, when swapping over to reeds however an egg shape or rounded square seems to work better.

just some examples

 

[Nooflyer]

Ok i read a little more indepth using the search engine. In the mean time i'm gonna baby my motorized bicycle/BTR until it's fully broke in.
BTW i'm still only 70% done. I still plan on better wheels and tires and gps and headlight. Maybe even disk brakes!

 

[Nooflyer]

Just came back from a little ride. The dax head was great but i had one little issue but i'm not sure if its the head or my gasket. But there has been burned oil mix spewing from one of the head studs but it runs great without a problem. So i took off my head and its all over the squish band of course but the gaskets are dry. So while i have it off i'm gonna try and swap it with roger's modded head and i'll also add another gasket to lower the comp. Any ideas what cause this?

 

[Nooflyer]

Ok i did a plug as it seems to be running great but i'm not completely clear if it's running superb. Here's a pic of it and feel free to chime in.

I'm currently running a 65# jet with C clip on the middle needle notch ( i have 5 notches) of my NT carb. I kind of want to use an free flowing air filter but i want to get it running good with the stock carb filter first.

Should i try a 68# jet or just move the clip leaner? The plug is dry but it's dark charcoal colored instead of milk chocolate colored!

 

[Nooflyer]

OK I decided that I should buy a coupleofbase gaskets and another gasket and that should solve my leak.

 

[rogergendron1]

I HAVE never had a leak issue with the head i mailed you ... but then again i resurfaced my jug to have a nice lvl gasket aria and the head is nice and flat too, you can tighten it down a lil tighter than you think just dont crank it on there

 

[rogergendron1]

the plug should look like it fell in dog poo.... lol that color

burnt a lil around the rim and nice poop color on the diode

 

[Nooflyer]

yea i'm thinking my ngk plug is the wrong heat range. Mine is a 7 when i think i need a bp6hs plug.

 

[Nooflyer]

Ok i bought the right plug i believe (bp6hs NGK) and it still looks like burnt toast. Should move the c clip on the carb needle up one?

 

[rogergendron1]

the lower the number the hotter the plug.
the idle et should be fine its for 0 to 1/4 trottle
try adjusting you air fuel mix screw that will help you with 1/4 to 1/2 throttle
then move the c clip to tune 1/2 to 3/4 trottle
then change main jet to tune 3/4 to WOT

post a pic ? is it oily black burnt or greyish white burnt ?

if its back and oily then go a jet smaller on the main and turn out the air fuel mix screw and lower the c clip one
if its whitish or greyish then go up on the main and turn in the air fuel mix screw and raise the c clip one

there are more parts involved than just a c clip !

idle jet
air fuel mix screw
c clip
main jet

all have to be in sink and its easy to start with the main and work your way down, rid at WOT for a few min then cut the motor and check your plug, tune the main acordingly
then ride at 1/2 to 3/4 trottle for a few min and cut the motor out check the plug and adjust c clip
now ride at 1/4 throttle and cut ou and plug chop, adjust the air fuel mix acordingly
the idle jet is fine if you motor idles lol

you can do this by marking throttle postitions on your bikes throttle start with marking WOT then mark OFF then mark in the middle then in between that and you will have marks on your throttle where each jet comes into play ! this will allow you to "SEE" what jet needs tunning wile riding !

and a # 6 nkg is a great all around plug !

if your plug looks like the first pic of it you posted you may need a lil bigger main jet and a lil adjustment with the air fuel mix the c clip may be fine on the 2nd mark down from the top. try that

but the plug looks like its running pretty good but a little lean. whats your mix ? try 40:1 it will give your motor more fuel than 32:1 per cycle

if you cant tune your carb (some people just cant do it) then might i suggest getting a dellorto 16.16 sha carb right from the dellorto direct website you only need to swap main jets to tune the whole carb ! if you can not afford it the 15mm sha clone is ok too

 

[Nooflyer]

I'm using the stock NT carb and it only has a idle screw, no air/fuel mixture screw.
So my expansion banana finally broke from the hanger and is no where to be found. The bolt flange is still connected to the motor minus the banana pipe. Seems like very poor welding. If it's not one thing then it's another. Now i have to purchase a better expansion chamber. Or just buy a stock pipe until i have the funds. Bummer.

 

[Nooflyer]

Ok i just wanted to update.
I have a treatland puch hi comp 47mm head on the way, along with a custom yz80 expansion pipe. i will let you know as soon as i get everything squared!

 

[rogergendron1]

sooo many people hav had trouble with the bananna pipe lol it would seem they break off on a lot of people !

but any way the y zinger pipe should work out fine if you can tune the headder pipe to the right length ! try running the y zinnger carb too ! the pw80 and y zinnger carb is the 16mm cns v1 carb but the yamaha version is better built.

also you will be verry pleased with the 70cc puch hi hi head ! i run it with a .4mm head gasket and its nearly 13:1 comp ! my rear tire drags if i just dump the clutch lol i have to pedal wile dumpig the clutch to force the motor to turn over ! and the larger squish band of the puch head helps out a lot with focusing a lot of the motors power right in the mid to top end between 5,000 and 10,000 rpms

best part is ... you already have the propper stainless steel mounting hardware for the puch head !

 

[Nooflyer]

Yes. I did have to enlarge the stud holes to 8mm but that was a piece of cake with my dremel. I'm actually heading to the hardware store for more washers to stack or a longer thinner socket to reach the studs. Now I have to invest in a better expansion chamber as that's the only thing holding me back from riding. And its nice outside at 50 degrees. Just my luck.
Oh the muffler said they can't weld my muffler back on it its too thin of a metal.pfft.

 

[Nooflyer]

Here's how it looks up to date.
Still need a better exhaust because all my others crapped on me. may have to get a SBP expansion but i'll wait to see if santa brings it lol.

 

[Scott.D.Lang]

also you will be verry pleased with the 70cc puch hi hi head ! i run it with a .4mm head gasket and its nearly 13:1 comp ! my rear tire drags if i just dump the clutch lol i have to pedal wile dumpig the clutch to force the motor to turn over ! and the larger squish band of the puch head helps out a lot with focusing a lot of the motors power right in the mid to top end between 5,000 and 10,000 rpms

I know the feeling right now I can not crank my bike because with all the snow the roads are to slick lol.

and dude if you can not find anyone to weld that pipe you can get a arrow pipe for 55$ it will help a lot.

 

[Nooflyer]

Ok i just got these in the mail. Pipe is from a yz80 bike and i bought a rt carb from dax because it came with additional jets. My one problem is finding a muffler shop that'll weld my pipe. if i can't then i would have wasted money on this pipe and would have to buy a sbp pipe or arrows pipe.

 

[Nooflyer]

Update! but still need to have expansion welded.

 

[rogergendron1]

Update! but still need to have expansion welded.

nice lookin bike and great mods ! you shouldnt have a problem finding a muffler shop to weld your exhaust lol

i walked my bike 5 min down the road to the veryy first shop i saw and they did it for 20 $ in 15 min lol

if they tell you they cant do it they are morons !!!! they weld large car exhausts for a living, how could they not know how to weld a single smaller one ?

 

[Nooflyer]

Yes they were telling me that the welder would melt through the thin pipe.