pushing the tickler....

S

skychair

New Member
pushing the tickler....Comments and Pictures added

I'm new to the forum and new to the motorized bike building.
My engine is stock out of the box with an NT Carb, mounted on a Chinese Walmart Schwinn bike.
I have installed a centrifugal clutch and the pull start.
when I do a cold start, I must press the tickler 50 to 70 times before it will start.
When I see gas drip from the air filter I 'know' it will crank on the first pull, and so it does. After it starts, and while it is still 'warm' it will crank on the first pull of the rope.......always. (well 98% of the time) It virtually always starts that easy.
I have had the Carb torn down, but was not checking for anything specific.
Is there something to do with the float setting that requires that many pushes of the tickler, or should I look elsewhere?

Is there a know cause for this tickler problem?

Appreciate any assist.
Ron:-||
 
Last edited:
Are you lifting the NT carb choke lever all the way up for your cold starts?

The choke lever warmed up setting is all the way down.

I never use the tickler button.
 
The 'tickler' is not a pump or a primer. It is simply a little pin which pushes down on the float, sinking it to allow more fuel to fill the bowl above the normal float setting. This will give you a rich condition that at times will allow easier starting particularly when the engine is cold. Pressing the tickler 50 to 70 times really isn't doing anything but flooding the engine. Press it once, hold it down for 5 to 10 seconds.

Like MBR said, try using the choke, lever up, or half way up when starting a cold engine.
I never use the tickler either.

Tom
 
I got tickled just reading the post......lol!

I agree with all that has been said regarding the tickler button.... use the choke lever and that is all that is needed, full choke on for one pull and if it doesn't start then set it to half way for partial choke and then pull it through again, should start on 1-3 pulls everytime if everything is set up right.

Best wishes and welcome to the forum.

In time you may want to look into some of the post here concerning how to re jet the carb for best power and smoothest overall performance.

Map
.wee.
 
Also check your spark plug gap. .024 to .028 is a good starting point. Too narrow or too wide and it will make starting harder.
We always ask what fuel to oil ratio are you using. Ignore the kit instructions that say 16:1. That's too much oil and that too will make starting more difficult.

Tom
 
Well I've conducted 3 separate test now (cold starts)and every one is correct, about the tickler.
I do not touch it, I go to full choke, and engine comes to life on the first good pull.
Feel kinda stupid, but I know I read that you were 'supposed' to tickle the carb before a cold start, thats why I did it.
From now on 'Me no tickle china girl'...
Any how another problem solved, I'm sure another one is just around the corner somewhere.
I thank everyone for their assist, I appreciate it.
Ron
 
skychair said:
Well I've conducted 3 separate test now (cold starts)and every one is correct, about the tickler.
I do not touch it, I go to full choke, and engine comes to life on the first good pull.
Feel kinda stupid, but I know I read that you were 'supposed' to tickle the carb before a cold start, thats why I did it.
From now on 'Me no tickle china girl'...
Any how another problem solved, I'm sure another one is just around the corner somewhere.
I thank everyone for their assist, I appreciate it.
Ron
Click to expand...

Glad we were able to help and glad you have that issue resolved .

Map
.wee.
 
Re: pushing the tickler....Progress pictures

I thought I'd throw out some pictures of my build so far, I know I always enjoy looking at others pictures.
The Bike is a Walmart- Chinese Schwinn Clairmont .

The engine is a slant head I purchased from Bike Berry.

Only 2 things broke so far, the Bakelite on the spark plug wire, and the pull start rope.
I dont have a lot of miles on mine, I just work on it a little along, and check adjustments with a short ride down the road.

There are 3 items that make the motorized bike really fun to work on and ride, for me personally at least.
1.
A 2 legged kick stand.
It is a pure pleasure to park it any where without fear of it falling over.
When using the pull start the 2 legged stand is really steady, and this stand allows me to do all the work/adjusting needed.

2 and 3.
Pull start and centrifugal clutch.
These 2 additions make the bike a pleasure to ride.
The only time I use the clutch lever is when I'm pushing the bike (engine off) into the garage.

I already know that this bike will always be a work in progress...never finished.

Actually been thinking of a Jack shift kit and front disk brake.
Front disk brake on my current fork may be problematic, any suggestions?

Thanks for looking.........Ron
 

Attachments

  • DSC00167.JPG
    DSC00167.JPG
    571.3 KB · Views: 209
  • DSC00166.JPG
    DSC00166.JPG
    573.2 KB · Views: 205
  • DSC00148.JPG
    DSC00148.JPG
    593 KB · Views: 267
Good looking build! Congrats. I used to have a double kickstand too, but ended up breaking two of them. I've since become an expert at leaning the bike against stuff. The clutch keeps it from rolling off balance.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top