PLEASE HELP suspect chain/engine seizure....

[SAS]

Hi first timer here and extremely green grease monkey speaking.
2 stroke 80cc engine.
Both bike and engine brand new, no previous owners.
Bike and engine only just run in btw.

I suspect engine seizure....???

I noticed that prior to this problem when bike was functional, the chain tensioner, where you adjust the wheel bit up or down, the nut was slightly loosened. Rather than tighten it up, I let it be, for some reason I thought this particular nut needed to allow the wheel rotational movement by being purposely slightly loose. Then last week I rode my bike and felt the chain slipping one night.
Almost immediately, the chain unhitched off the rear wheel sprocket and the bike came to a complete stop on it's own, skidding to a stop.
At first I thought it was the chain that needed to be put back on, tensioner fixed and all will be ok.
Not quite, when the clutch was pulled in, to free the wheel and roll the bike for free wheel pedaling, I was not able to free wheel albeit clutch in or not.
I ended up dumping my bike behind the bush, going home to get the tray back vehicle and carted the bike home in shame. Lol...
I'm ****ting myself a little and hoping that I haven't done major damage and that it's repairable.
I appreciate all advice and will attempt to be online very frequently, each day from now, a few times a day, till I fix this issue.
I'm currently in between employment so can spend as much time on this per day as required.

Cheers and thanks in advance.
xo

 

[bairdco]

if the chain came completely off the bike, and the bike wouldn't roll, then it's obviously not the engine. with the chain disconnected, the motor doesn't do anything.

if you're not explaining it correctly (or i'm not understanding it correctly) then, if the chain is still on the bike, maybe the chain bunched up inside the cover on the engine. that's been known to happen. pull the three bolts out and check it.

or, the chain might be stuck between the sprocket and the spokes on the wheel, but that would be pretty obvious.

if you suspect that the engine seized, remove the chain completely, remove the spark plug, with the gear cover off (the one with the clutch actuator sticking out of the top) use a wrench to try to turn the engine. if it turns, it's not seized.

chain alignment and tension is very important. probably causes the most problems for new builders than anything else on these bikes.

 

[2door]

Depending on what you find, and it's going to be as Bairdco said, the chain bunched up at the drive sprocket, when you reassemble everything make sure the tensioner wheel is tight. It isn't supposed to move. Also make sure that wheel is aligned with the chain. Most of them need to be bent (twisted) a little to acheive proper alignment.

If the chain is too loose, and that's what it sounds like, it will jamb inside the clutch actuator cover especially on deceleration. You want 1/2 to 3/4" slack in the chain for proper tension.

Tom

 

[maintenancenazi]

^^ Everything these two wise men have said. Plus I will add, you may want to go ahead and upgrade to a #41 chain. I was burned too many times with the stock kit chain. This chain will fit the sprockets much better, and will tolerate slight miss alignments between the sprockets as well....

Peace, James

 

[2door]

^^ Everything these two wise men have said. Plus I will add, you may want to go ahead and upgrade to a #41 chain. I was burned too many times with the stock kit chain. This chain will fit the sprockets much better, and will tolerate slight miss alignments between the sprockets as well....

Peace, James

The man speaks the truth. If you use the kit supplied #415 chain you need to closely inspect it for stiff rollers and side plates as well as twists. I've seen several that, even new, were badly twisted which doesn't help with chain alignment. #41 chain is the best alternative and available at many industrial suppliers as well as Ace Hardware.

Tom

 

[SAS]

Thanks guys, I will attention all your suggestions tomorrow and cautiously eliminate the possibilities you all suggest.
I'll let you know how I go whatever the outcome.
Cheers

 

[SAS]

Also, I've already worn in the engine. Have done 10L of fuel mix already. Now I'm onto the next batch with different ratio.
I have changed the fuel filter from the generic one supplied in the kit, as that one began to leak like a dog on heat. It was becoming stupendous. The new fuel filter is brilliant, no spillage and have also taped up the fuel tank/tap area with gas(yellow) plumbing tape. Found that this is integral to do as a new bike-engine builder. I also silicone glued up the black rubber seal as the kit suggests, for the electrical cable that leads into the engine at the bottom.
I also had a new tyre tube put on, with the actual rim lined with special tape to prevent internal tube puncturing, through wear and tear.
I've got the madest bike horn, from an ebayer that uses 9V battery but is loud enough to put the fear of brown bears in a hard ass military man. Lol...
My helmet is my former snow ski helmet, so I've permanently mounted a top end cave light, feel kinda star trekkish. Lol...
Because I'm a girl/chick, I need a massive basket on the rear for my shopping days. I can comfortably carry up to 20kgs if need be, not that I do that as the weight nullifies the kick bike stand once weighted heavily.
I've put on new brake pads and let me tell you, top end brake pads make all the difference in stopping ability. A MUST FOR ALL NEW/GREEN 2 wheeler comrades.
I invested in a really **** hot D-shackle bike lock and did my research really well prior to purchasing it. So be careful, not all these super dooper bike locks are secure, a lot can be easily broken. The ABUS variety, German made, can't go wrong. Considering getting another as each one takes 45 mins to hack through with a hack saw. Only a grinder will get it off and then it will take enough time for attention to be brought upon those who are possibly theiving your bike, persay.
There are a few slight adjustments I have done to make the bike a little more consumer/chick friendly and when I get back on 2 wheels, I'll be happy to take heaps of pics and post em here.

 

[SAS]

aaaaaahhh crap, one of the screws is threaded on the drive sprocket cover.....
flock sake !
not sure what to do now......

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

Do you mean you destroyed the screw head and can't remove it, or stripped it putting it back in?

 

[SAS]

ok managed to remove the offending screw, head finally broke off allowing me to remove the cap. Need new screw. Whilst I'm at it, I think I'll get three replacement screws of higher tensile quality, no doubt this made in China **** is just that....

I managed to get most things sorted namely :

1. can engage clutch again and free wheel the bike to pedal once again.
2. yes the chain was kinked up a little on the drive sprocket once I removed the cover

But and a big but.....

I cannot get the damn thing started now. Think I might have flooded it ?

So I took off the fuel filter and drained it. I have another spare NEW one if need be, hoping it might have been just this....

I'll tackle it tomorrow, it's 11pm Tuesday night here and I'm beat !

Catcha's tomorrow folks...

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

Flooded?
Petcock- OFF
Choke- OFF.
Throttle- WIDE OPEN.
Pedal around for a minute or two.
Then remove the plug and pedal for a few seconds....that should clear it.

 

[SAS]

Just some clarification please...

1. Throttle wide open = I take it you mean cranked fully when gripping the handle ?
2. Remove plug = spark plug ?

Cheers

 

[SAS]

Ok, I tried your suggestion Bikeguy Joe, no luck.
I've got engine struggling to kick in but it does work.
The engine stalls after ten or so pedals and comes to a complete stop.
At no stage does the engine kick in and then stall/stop.
I've tried this a few times, no luck.
Now I'm stumped and not sure what to do.

And what do you mean by remove plug ? What part are you referring to ?
The spark plug ?
The fuel filter plug ?
Any other ?

Cheers

 

[tooljunkie]

i believe he's referring to remove spark plug.also look at it and see if its wet or dry.
wet=flooded with gas.
dry= not getting gas.

back to the buggered screw,its the top rearmost one?
it has a nut on the backside,i occasionally forget its there.

 

[SAS]

yeah I thought he meant the spark plug. it was unclean but neither wet nor dry.
I removed the spark plug, gave it a scrub with some stainless steel wire (the sort used for pots n pans), cleaned it with a rag and put it back on.
No luck.


nope the buggered screw was the bottom one of the three. The top two were fine, one is short and the other a longer screw. The bottom is a short screw too.

 

[SAS]

if memory serves me well, I think at the time of this initial problem, the engine back fired...there is some oil like leakage/spatter where the exhaust is connected to the engine but the screws to the exhaust and gasket are sealed tight/fine.

I'm getting some photos put up shortly....

 

[SAS]

http://s698.photobucket.com/albums/vv343/Fangin3741/Motorised Bike SAS 2012/

Cheers

 

[Ibedayank]

Just some clarification please...

1. Throttle wide open = I take it you mean cranked fully when gripping the handle ?
2. Remove plug = spark plug ?

Cheers

yes and yes

also replace the stock plug and plug wire with better
NGK for the plug and 7mm wire and boot from local motorcycle or auto parts place

 

[SAS]

Not using stock spark plug. Think it's an NGK.

7mm wire ? what's that ?
Boot ? what's that ?

Cheers

 

[SAS]

Spark plug's definitely an NGK B-6L variety.