Okay, getting spark, but still not running! GRRRR!!!

J

Josh380

New Member
Okay, I've replaced the spark plug, and I'm getting spark. As some of you may already know, the motor ran just fine for about 2 days and then quit running.

I've already used RTV on the intake manifold, so I'm positive there's no leak. And yes, there is gas, and I'm using 4 oz of oil for a half gallon of gas (break in).

I'm getting quite aggrivated with this, as I don't understand why it would run for just a few days then quit.

Is it possible that now that I've ran the motor for about 15 miles, it requires a little less oil to run?

I should mention that the motor does seem to "fire", but immediately bogs down, the throttle has no effect, until I disengage the clutch, then it immediately dies.



PLEASE HELP!!!! :-|| (by the way I love this emoticon...it's exactly what I've been doing)
 
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I had the same issue at first. Try running it without the gas cap - that ended up being my issue, but I also had a problem with a leaky petcock that kept flooding my carb, causing the exact same issue you're having. My carburetor had a little screw at the bottom that allowed me to drain it.


LAST ONE - when I first built my bike I put the carburetor mixture pin in upside-down, causing the bike to run ridiculously rich, only running poorly at WOT.

Hope that helps.
 
So, I should try running it without the gas cap, and also drain the carb? It seems that with the gas cap on I'm still getting flow as I've disconnected the fuel line from the carb and noticed flow.
 
CDI breaking down under load or magneto. I strapped a propain bottle on the bike ran a unlit hose to carb inlet. This was to introduce more gas to engine to determine if I was starving of fuel. { also cool for finding vacuum leaks on cars, and a round about way to say if theres a weak injector } There is a chance that the filter at the tank is clogged, they fall apart very easily , and if so will play **** clogging your shut off cock. The orifices inside the fuel cut off cock a very small. I had a fit and adapted a swamp cooler one on one of mine worked great , and never clogged. Last when my CDI gave me troubles It was shorting out internally so when the engine was ran for awhile it got quite warm. that might help give up an answer. Hope this helps, the propain shouldn't be ran for very long as you are not giving lube to the engine very well this way.
 
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When i was in high school years ago we had a spark plug tester that you could look at the spark under atmospheric pressure the more psi we put you could see the spark get weaker on bad plugs. The spark can be breaking down anywhere , electricity will always choose the easiest path to ground . Thats why maybe your CDI might getting warm, grounding out inside, When mine failed it was warm do you have a good plug and wire? just thinking out loud here hope this helps. Hope you get it running soon keep us posted.
 
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Ok. I guess I'll try draining the tank into another tank, remove that junky filter and put an inline filter on, clean out the fuel shutoff, and mix the gas up in my gallon tank and put it back in. Honestly, I can't think of anything else that could be wrong. It's gotta be something to do with the fuel.....

I'm moving this Sunday and need to get this thing running. I'll post a reply with the results.

Response to Goat Herder: Brand spankin' new spark plug..I tossed the stock one when this problem started.

Thanks!!
 
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the plug wire screws in to the cdi try seeing if it is loose. Also my filter has clogged before. What octane are you using they say lower will combust better. Recheck the ground wire and all wiring. Turn the idle screw in and reset it if it is running after that. Clean your air filter mine has been loaded with oil before due to tipping the bike. Last resort try taking off your exaust to eliminate any clogged conditions here. Don't give up and I'm sure you'll figure it out. These are just my suggestions and I hope some may make sense. Chime in if not.
 
What is your starting procedure? Tickle it with the tickler button for a couple of seconds, then use at least half choke, maybe a little more. Hold the throttle open at least a little while doing this.

They all require a little different starting technique, depending on a lot of factors.

The first few starts I use wide open throttle, 3/4 choke and then move the choke down just a little.

What skaz was talking about is that sometimes the caps don't vent properly. You should still be able to get it to start even if that's the case.

Keep us posted.
 
Also- mix your fuel at 24 to 1 and make sure you have fresh gasoline and that you are mixing it accurately. 16 to 1 is waaay too much oil, even for break in.

The instructions al;so say things like "Connect the gas holding supply to the downward tube extending on the mixture rating appliance to get running engine to go faster." and "adjust fuel mixture screw...." which they don't even have.
 
Success!

I'm once again running, got rid of that crappy fuel filter, put one inline, remixed the oil.

I also noticed that the blue wire was connected to black and black to blue. DUH!!!
 
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