NT Carb question

Rocky_Motor

Rocky_Motor

New Member
I was wondering if this is how the carb is supposed to look in the middle thing.. Just the needle is seen? I belivee I have it set up correctly but wasn't sure if it was supposed to be the whole copper slide thing that is supposed to be in there. As it is right now it's inside the screw part thing with the spring and the other goodies.
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I fixed the cable so it isn't popping out like that. But just wondering if all that goes through the middle of that is the needle
 
Ok I think I fixed it. In the picture my throttle is totally open. I got it so that the cylinder slides correctly but is slightly open at the bottom. Which I am guessing is the idle.

The next problem I have is that on the new bike, the exhaust. Hits the pedals a little. I've been using a butane torch to heat the metal to bend it. For some reason it seems to not make a difference but i'll try more tomorrow. I might just grind some of the pedal down if I can, if I can't get the exhaust to bend right
 
I'd heat and bend the exhaust before I ground the peddle down. Get the exhaust bright red before bending, and don't bend while being installed.
 
Al and I usually agree on things but I'll have to say here that for minor adjustments I've never had to resort to heat to bend an exhaust pipe.
I clamp the flange in a bench vice with some protection if it's a chrome pipe and bend it cold. I use some kind of cheater to give me more leverage but the steel pipe will bend cold and typically you don't need much to get pedal/crank clearance. As Al warned, do not try this with the pipe attached to the engine. You'll break something.

Another method, if the interference is minor, is to open up the holes in the exhaust flange to allow the pipe to be repositioned enough to clear. It doesn't take much. If the holes are 1/4" in diameter, drilling them out to 5/16" will give you some adjustment.

Tom
 
thanks for the tips, It seems to fit very well now :D
there is about a 1/4" of clearence between the bottom of the bike and the exhaust. Maybe a little less. Does the exhaust rattle around a lot? It wouldn't be very good if the exhaust clangs against the bike.

If it's fine, im very close to finishing this and then onwards to hoping the engine starts.
 
my 48cc skyhawk exhaust pipe has been mounted only by the two flange bolts since day 1 and hasn't moved, or rattled even a bit.
to move it just a bit for clearance, first removing from the motor, you could put a strain on it in the proper direction, then dimple the tube just a tad to make it take a set in the direction you wish... kind of a cold wrinkle bend???
Best
rc
 
So everything I think is done and works great. It's never done, but you know what I mean :P

I noticed that when I went to adjust the idle, all I could do is make it go up and then back down to a certain point. When I unscrew it, I can unscrew it till the thing comes out and the engine doesn't idle any lower. Is this normal?
 
Rocky_Motor said:
So everything I think is done and works great. It's never done, but you know what I mean :P

I noticed that when I went to adjust the idle, all I could do is make it go up and then back down to a certain point. When I unscrew it, I can unscrew it till the thing comes out and the engine doesn't idle any lower. Is this normal?
Click to expand...

Not really. When I back my idle screw out (not all the way) it will kill the engine. One of two things can be adjusted. Screw in the thumb screw on the top of the carburetor, this will extend the length of the cable in the carburetor (and the piston should close), or you might have to make a new throttle cable a few mm longer. I had to make a new cable. Easy to do.
 
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