Non tapered shaft? Do I need a radius washer?

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by TheSignGuy, Aug 19, 2017.

  1. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2014
    Messages:
    359
    Likes Received:
    3
    Hello so my whizzer sheave has came in, do I need to add a radius washer as my shaft is non tapered flat all the way back to the block if so can I use a standard washer?

    There is no ball so I do not think that I will need this washer however it says on YouTube that I may need a radius washer according to what Briggs youtube network has recorded but the shaft that I was looking at had a taper which was passed the block.

    Briggs & Stratton 80302 model phone numbers are 80302 4015 01 9008 thank you.
     
  2. MEASURE TWICE

    MEASURE TWICE Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2010
    Messages:
    2,057
    Likes Received:
    11
    I have an 9000 and an 8000 model Briggs and never used the washer. There is a ridge at the crank case wall where the crank shaft does not let the clutch scrape on anything. I asked the same question in a post here before and had no answer. The post I saw and still wonder what engine needs them.

    One thing for sure is lubing the bronze bushing inside the clutch, the mfr says like every 2 hrs. I do this way longer, but have now figured it is best to try every 4 hours. Trail riding I usually do no more than 4 hours a day anyway. Removing a cover to get at the clutch and not drip oil where it is not good on the shoes and bell really requires taking the clutch off.
     
    TheSignGuy likes this.
  3. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2014
    Messages:
    359
    Likes Received:
    3

    Thanks, now should I be using a cupped bolt to the crank shaft? My shaft has a bit of a nose on the clutch area about a few cm or mm on the tip of the thumb.
     
  4. MEASURE TWICE

    MEASURE TWICE Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2010
    Messages:
    2,057
    Likes Received:
    11
    https://motorbicycling.com/threads/radius-washer-for-crankshaft.62247/

    Above is the post I made along with that Briggs Video I saw online, I don't think it applies to the engines I have. The pictures, one is the video snap shot of the crankshaft on the engine that has that bevel edge. The second picture is my engine which does not have a beveled edge immediately at the point the crankshaft ends the surface a clutch can be on.

    https://motorbicycling.com/attachments/cam24224-jpg.84278/

    https://motorbicycling.com/attachments/cam24225-jpg.84279/

    I can see no way it makes sense to use a special washer except on a crankshaft which has the bevel edge as in the video.

    The terminology that you use, I am not familiar with, but I think you mean getting rid of any end play.

    What I got are washers that have the inside clearance that just fit over the crankshaft and use them in one or more places on the crankshaft to get the clutch to not move laterally. To save on expense of washers if I have a lot of extra space and am getting the clutch to line up with chain or belt, I resort to a spacer and a few washers.

    Then I put a fender or large flat washer over the end of the crankshaft along with a split lock washer and key in place. The bolt holds it together. If the spacer washers leave too much past the end of the crankshaft tightening down the bolt may put excessive pressure on the clutch and the crankshaft.

    The pictures of my crankshaft and jackshafts after I had modified the bike to use a larger less worn Briggs, show here I used the tapped end crankshaft with bolt etc.

    The jackshafts I had once had then ends tapped also, but I resorted to using split collars that do not mar the shaft. The other type of collars that the set screw messes with the shaft (they don't use key) I saved only to use with the set screw removed and then they become spaces.

    Bracket parts still welded in place were from prior when I used belt clutch and required a back idler pulley to tension belt. When I restore the older engine it can be a spare and I saved the idler pulley parts and belt clutch and associated pulleys.

    https://motorbicycling.com/attachments/cam24611-jpg.84366/

    https://motorbicycling.com/attachments/cam25404-jpg.84495/
     
    #4 MEASURE TWICE, Aug 20, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2017
  5. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2014
    Messages:
    359
    Likes Received:
    3
    So no need?
     
  6. Tony01

    Tony01 Member

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2012
    Messages:
    922
    Likes Received:
    17
    I just use a big rubber ring on my shaft, makes the hardening last a lot longer
     
  7. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2014
    Messages:
    359
    Likes Received:
    3
    Cool
    Well I left it washerless... I found a correct bolt at my job take a look and see the progress. IMAG0138.jpg IMAG0140.jpg IMAG0141.jpg

    Going to need a die grinder, a quick weld up for the secondary steel plate, and to figure out is my "axle spacer" which is a bolt going to hold the axle locked in position if not going to have to add external lock washers.

     

Share This Page