New project officially underway

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bigbutterbean

Active Member
Jan 31, 2011
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Lebanon, PA
Well, the wheel got here about an hour ago. The spokes had a bit too much flex for my liking, so I went around with a screwdriver and tightened each spoke a quarter turn. I tinged them with the screwdriver afterwards, and they all have about the same tone, so I think I'm good on spoke tension. I had to remove the stock coaster brake so I can install my Shimano coaster brake, and they had the darn thing on there so tight. I loosened the lock nut, but the bearing cone came with it. By the time I got them both off, they were quite warm. But at least they came off. I'll be using the bearings that it came with, since they look pretty solid. I've got to get all the factory grease off so I can put my own hi-temp grease in like I always do. Then re-assemble the hub, get it back on the bike and paint it. But before I do that, also got to remove the jackshaft plate and tighten my crankcase bolts so I stop leaking oil. Got to walk the dogs first though, so I'll check back in when its all done.
 

bigbutterbean

Active Member
Jan 31, 2011
2,417
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38
Lebanon, PA
Well, I got the new wheel today. The whole reason I ordered a replacement wheel from Huffy is so my adapter would fit. Wouldn't you know it, the replacement wheel had a smaller hub. WTF!?!?!? No way in #$@%* I am buying another goshdang wheel. I remembered reading a post by Silverbear with a link to a wheel building tutorial, so I took both wheels apart and laced the old hub into the new rim. I don't really get the concept of trueing, so I'm taking it to the bike shop to have that done. Dropping it off either tomorrow or Wednesday, depending on the shop's hours. I work tomorrow, so if they are open when my wife gets off work, I'll drop it off then. If not, I have off Wednesday and can drop it off then. This god dang wheel better be friggin' bulletproof, or I'm buying another adapter so I can use any wheel. I already paid for this one AND another one with the wrong size hub for my adapter, so it would be a total waste not to use one of them. I am selling the other wheel for half of what I paid for it, which will probably just cover the cost of getting the huffy wheel trued. At this point, the only good things I can say about this whole experience are that I got a Shimano coaster brake out of it, and I learned how to lace my own wheel.
 

mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
109
63
Central Area of Texas
Well, I got the new wheel today. The whole reason I ordered a replacement wheel from Huffy is so my adapter would fit. Wouldn't you know it, the replacement wheel had a smaller hub. WTF!?!?!? No way in #$@%* I am buying another goshdang wheel. I remembered reading a post by Silverbear with a link to a wheel building tutorial, so I took both wheels apart and laced the old hub into the new rim. I don't really get the concept of trueing, so I'm taking it to the bike shop to have that done. Dropping it off either tomorrow or Wednesday, depending on the shop's hours. I work tomorrow, so if they are open when my wife gets off work, I'll drop it off then. If not, I have off Wednesday and can drop it off then. This god dang wheel better be friggin' bulletproof, or I'm buying another adapter so I can use any wheel. I already paid for this one AND another one with the wrong size hub for my adapter, so it would be a total waste not to use one of them. I am selling the other wheel for half of what I paid for it, which will probably just cover the cost of getting the huffy wheel trued. At this point, the only good things I can say about this whole experience are that I got a Shimano coaster brake out of it, and I learned how to lace my own wheel.

Dang-it bbb, that does stink to high heaven........! Hope that situation goes smoother from this point forward for ya.
I know you been through the ringer on this deal but when its done ill bet you'll have a good set up that will give you great service for a long time.
Best wishes.

Map
reddd
 

bigbutterbean

Active Member
Jan 31, 2011
2,417
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38
Lebanon, PA
I was very frustrated about this whole situation, and taking some of it out on the guy who sent me the wheel. The truth is, its my own stupid fault. I spent $77, nearly the cost of a whole new Cranbrook, trying to fix this stupid wheel problem. Its no one's fault but my own, and I feel like such a stupid idiot making rookie moves spending this d@mn much money trying to solve a wheel problem. I'm a jack@ss.
 

bigbutterbean

Active Member
Jan 31, 2011
2,417
3
38
Lebanon, PA
Well in any event, I did drop the wheel off to have it trued today. I'll be picking it up Friday when I get paid. Even though the #$%& wheel cost me so dang friggin' much money, at least I'll be back on the road very soon.
 

bigbutterbean

Active Member
Jan 31, 2011
2,417
3
38
Lebanon, PA
Well today was a fun day. I had to remove my clutch, primary chain and gearbox to get to my crankcase bolts to tighten them and put loctite on them. Had a bit of a time with it, but eventually got it done. I shouldn't have any more oil leaking out anymore now.
 

bigbutterbean

Active Member
Jan 31, 2011
2,417
3
38
Lebanon, PA
Well, even though it cost me $100 due to a combination of bad luck and stupidity, my wheel problems have finally been solved. I sent my brother to pick up my wheel from the bike shop today after he dropped me off at work. When I got home, I disassembled the hub, installed the sprocket adapter and sprocket, serviced the hub and reassembled, then put the wheel back on the bike and everything is solid finally. I've got a 100% true wheel that I laced myself, and a Shimano coaster brake, and the best part is no more wheel wiggling like before. Took it for a test drive after getting the wheel back on, and everything is nice and smooth. The clutch doesn't slip like it did before either. Now hopefully no more oil leaks now that I've got loctite on my crankcase bolts. I'm SO HAPPY!!! Lol. Now I'll be able to take my bike to the central PA rally next Saturday and show it off. My front brake needs a tiny bit of adjustment, but I can take care of that tomorrow after work. I'm just happy to have the bike back on the road after over a week of not being able to drive it.
 

bigbutterbean

Active Member
Jan 31, 2011
2,417
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38
Lebanon, PA
I would expect most engines to perform better in cold, dense air. Everything else being equal,a cooler denser charge means more power.
Jetting sounds epa lean to me.
Most of the imported engines I've messed with needed more fuel to run good.
I'd be looking into a better motorcycle style carb for better mixture control.
The stationary engine design was not meant for full time throttle control, it was built to run at a governed rpm. Changing to a better design carb will bring out the full potential of any imported epa engine.
Your results may vary.
I think that you were right, but not exactly for the reason you may have thought. I've been having some issues lately that point to fuel starvation. I seem to have traced the problem to my carburetor petcock. Originally it leaked, but in my efforts to stop the leak I may have screwed the petcock on too tight, so the engine wasn't getting the normal amount of fuel. The last few days have been frustrating with stalling and hard to no starting. But I loosened the petcock a tad until the lever turned easily, then started her up to listen to the idle, and it sounded like a much smoother, more even tone than before. It used to get real low and then start to kind of race a bit. I didn't detect any of that after loosening the petcock. I will know more after driving back and forth to work tomorrow. But aside from these issues, I haven't seen any problems with the stock carb. I have always been able to achieve the speed I geared it for, so I still dont see any reason to change the carburetor. I think as long as the fuel is flowing at the proper rate, this engine and carb do fine with throttle control.
 

bigbutterbean

Active Member
Jan 31, 2011
2,417
3
38
Lebanon, PA
Well, I now suspect a clogged jet. I tried to take the bike to work this morning, but same issues. Got it started, then went down the road and it started acting up. Finally got it started again, and every time I went to give it gas it died. It would only start with the choke on. I'm going to take the air cleaner and the bowl off, turn the gas on and see what I see. If all looks good, then it almost has to be a clogged jet or I dont know what else. Really frustrated right now.
 

mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
109
63
Central Area of Texas
Well, I now suspect a clogged jet. I tried to take the bike to work this morning, but same issues. Got it started, then went down the road and it started acting up. Finally got it started again, and every time I went to give it gas it died. It would only start with the choke on. I'm going to take the air cleaner and the bowl off, turn the gas on and see what I see. If all looks good, then it almost has to be a clogged jet or I dont know what else. Really frustrated right now.
If you have a can of carb cleaner, wd-40, brake cleaner, silicone spray lube or about any lube or solvent in a spray can, just remove the Top nut that holds throttle slide and cable in carb, stick the red plastic tube on the spray can down in the hole that the metering needle goes into and give it a quick burst of spray, if it clogged that will clear it, then pull the carb bowl empty it and replace everything, had to do that one myself before.

Map
 

bigbutterbean

Active Member
Jan 31, 2011
2,417
3
38
Lebanon, PA
My carb has an external throttle linkage, so I'd have to spray the solvent elsewhere. Anyway, got it fixed now. The problem was actually my petcock. Thought I had it fixed last night but didn't. Finally figured out that I didnt have my petcock installed properly on my carburetor. The bike is running properly again. While I was looking at everything, decided to take the bowl off the carb, and the gas that was in it was full of all kinds of dirt from my crankcase breather tube, which I had connected to the carb for positive ventilation. After seeing all the crap that was in my bowl and my air filter, I disconnected the breather tube from the carb. Positive ventilation improves gas mileage and keeps some of the blowby out of the crankcase, but its not worth getting all that crap in my engine.
 

mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
109
63
Central Area of Texas
My carb has an external throttle linkage, so I'd have to spray the solvent elsewhere. Anyway, got it fixed now. The problem was actually my petcock. Thought I had it fixed last night but didn't. Finally figured out that I didnt have my petcock installed properly on my carburetor. The bike is running properly again. While I was looking at everything, decided to take the bowl off the carb, and the gas that was in it was full of all kinds of dirt from my crankcase breather tube, which I had connected to the carb for positive ventilation. After seeing all the crap that was in my bowl and my air filter, I disconnected the breather tube from the carb. Positive ventilation improves gas mileage and keeps some of the blowby out of the crankcase, but its not worth getting all that crap in my engine.
Sorry about that last post of mine bbb, I forget you aint running a china girl on that bike, I'd just make me a catch can for the vent tube to attach to, I did that on my Roketa 150cc scooter, made mine out of pvc pipe, put a fitting on each end, glue one end and leave the other so you can get it off to clean the caught oil out ever so often, on the end that will come off I just drilled and tapped it to accept an 1/8" pipe thread so I could screw a barbed fitting in for slipping a piece of hose over and then righ beside it drill anoyhe small hole maybe 1/8 - 3/16" that will give a plaec for the pressure to bleed out.

Many ways to do it just thought I'd share how I've done it in the past on the 4 smokers.

Map
reddd
 

bigbutterbean

Active Member
Jan 31, 2011
2,417
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38
Lebanon, PA
I'll find a can or bottle to use for a catch can eventually. Just for now, I made the tube long enough to zip-tie it to my motor mount. As for the comment, don't worry about it. This forum is a very big place. Sometimes its hard to keep track of who's running what. I'm just glad I got the problem solved. I built this bike to be reliable, not to be a ford (Fix Or Repair Daily), lol.
 

mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
109
63
Central Area of Texas
I'll find a can or bottle to use for a catch can eventually. Just for now, I made the tube long enough to zip-tie it to my motor mount. As for the comment, don't worry about it. This forum is a very big place. Sometimes its hard to keep track of who's running what. I'm just glad I got the problem solved. I built this bike to be reliable, not to be a ford (Fix Or Repair Daily), lol.
Lol easy on the Ford jokes there.........lol.....!

Grew up driving nothing but GM stuff aand start buying Ford products back in the late 90's and had less problems and better service from my Ford trucks than I ever got from my Chevys....

Boy this will open a can of worms......lol!
 

xseler

Well-Known Member
Apr 14, 2013
2,886
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OKC, OK
Lol easy on the Ford jokes there.........lol.....!

Grew up driving nothing but GM stuff aand start buying Ford products back in the late 90's and had less problems and better service from my Ford trucks than I ever got from my Chevys....

Boy this will open a can of worms......lol!

I've had mostly GM products, but the only new vehicle that never went to the dealer for any kind of warranty service was a '93 Ford Ranger pickup. Slower than molasses, but never any issues......go figure.

Used that truck to haul my mountain bikes to the Colorado mountains --- pre-motorized.
 
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mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
109
63
Central Area of Texas
I've had mostly GM products, but the only new vehicle that never went to the dealer for any kind of warranty service was a '93 Ford Ranger pickup. Slower than molasses, but never any issues......go figure.

Used that truck to haul my mountain bikes to the Colorado mountains --- pre-motorized.
Had two of the little Rangers over the years myself both had the 3.0 V6 and both were virtually bullet proof, the last one broke a flexplate some how, when it had 190, 000 miles on it and I had to put one battery on it, like you said they weren't hot rods by any means but they were very good on gas and were extremely low maintenance vehicles, the first 2002 model I had was the Trail Head Model that had the 4x4 suspension I realy liked that.... dang good truck.
I have 2006 F150 XLT extended cab now I bought new, just over 100, 000miles now and it had one battery and one window motor I replaced and not another wrench has been on it beside a coue of tail light bulbs changed. So can't complain about my Ford truck at all.
Map
 

bigbutterbean

Active Member
Jan 31, 2011
2,417
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38
Lebanon, PA
Hey relax guys, it was only meant to be a joke. I've got nothing against Fords. My brother drives an Exploder. Oops, I meant Explorer :D. No really though, it was only a joke lol.
 

mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
109
63
Central Area of Texas
Hey relax guys, it was only meant to be a joke. I've got nothing against Fords. My brother drives an Exploder. Oops, I meant Explorer :D. No really though, it was only a joke lol.
Oh yeah we just having a little fun and friendly conversation, I have two chevys sitting at my house the ford truck and. New Hyundia Sante Fe I just bought the wife a couple months ago......
I have a one main reason I actually wont buy a new gm or Chrysler product tjese days and its a political one that I wont even touch here, im afraid Tom or one of the other Mods would have to( BAIL me out) of that one if I got on the subject......lol!

If I buy an American vehicle new it will be a Ford, if I build an old school hot rod it will have a small block chevy.......!

Peace, map