New guy - two builds no help

[Brocklee]

I saw the kit online at the beginning of the year so I bought it. Found a five hundred dollar Specialized Hardrock for 175 dollars. Put it together overnight with the "detailed" instructions that came with it. Runs like a dream (until I jumped it a few times and my engine mounts bent and studs broke). That's when I found this forum and chose the 1/4 inch plate steel with two U-clamps to mount engine. I have wrecked the bike three times since then and will start up immediately (after kicking handle bars straight and checking for bleeding...lol)

Anyways...what I'm getting at is that I've not had one problem with NT carb. I finished a second build for a friend on a piece of junk Jeep Renegade, rust and all. New CNS carb sucks. I got it to run but won't get over 20 miles an hour (except for a couple of times it hauled A**). My first bike hits thirty five consistantly. I've read a lot about drilling the main jet and about the float...but do you all think I just need to get an NT?

Thank you... BLR

P.S. I put a spacer (nut) on the cable that goes into the throttle of the carb to hold the outer black cable further away...creating more distance. Otherwise it wouldn't even idle. Runs good and idles now but top end is dead except on some "bizarre" occasions it hauls butt. I wish I just had the NT.

 

[Brocklee]

Oh and by the way...Since I've "delved" (if that's a word) into these hootis bikes...My lawnmower, weedeater and a scooter...they all work better. It's friggin amazing! All hail the hootis bike.

 

[Blakenstein]

High Brock- WELCOME TO THE FORUM There are lots of experts here that can help with that type of carb. My carb is not the same-it has a vac hole that conects the motor vac hole to work a membrane inside the carb as a pump. When I'm having problems it's usually that's plugged or then it's my gass- air ratio. When I lift the back wheel and rev the motor (not under load) the performance is not the same when I'm ridding it (under load) too lean of a gass air mix will make the motor rev super while it's not under load but results in poor performance under load...this is bscause there is not enough liquid in the cylinder - low compression the more gass liquid, the more compression- the more power to push the bike under load.
My motor drives a bike...not a chain saw blade.
Too rich of a mixture will also give good bottom end but no top end and this is becuase too rich fuel\air results in a lower explosive point- thus weakining the power stroke (down stroke) so there has to be that fine point -not tooo rich and not too lean.
Im just sayin that gass\air might be the problem...maybe.

 

[Brocklee]

Thank you Blake. I guess I'm just going to take the carburetor apart and clean it real good, make sure everything is as it should be. Then just start from the beginning on the air/fuel mixture...also check for air leaks as that could be a problem. If that doesn't work then I will just spring for the original NT carb.

Yours has a membrane? So it is not gravity fed? Meaning you could ride it upside down..lol

 

[Blakenstein]

Thank you Blake. I guess I'm just going to take the carburetor apart and clean it real good, make sure everything is as it should be. Then just start from the beginning on the air/fuel mixture...also check for air leaks as that could be a problem. If that doesn't work then I will just spring for the original NT carb.

Yours has a membrane? So it is not gravity fed? Meaning you could ride it upside down..lol

Your Welcome Brock, ya mine is not gravity fed and it will run upside down but I havent tried that yet. Oh, one more thing I forgot to add but it goes without sayin.... never run too lean cause your motor could burn up from overheating do to oil starvation. This is great forum you will learn alot and have a good time here...I know I did.