New Guy in MidWest

T

tdaddydolla

New Member
Hi Folks,

my name is Xander and this is
my first post and attempt to build a motorized bicycle.

I am having trouble with the clutch, it is installed the way the manual suggests, yet it does not seem to free spin with out cranking engine.

why would they call it a clutch?
 
I have a lil 49cc 2 stroke

Model : Z50SL
Mode of Engine : Single cylinder, air-cooling, 2-stroke
Power * Rotary Speed Rated Power :
1.5Kw / 5000r / min
(2.5HP/5000r/min)
Max. Power :
2Kw / 6000r / min
(4-6HP/6000r/min)
Ignition Mode : CDI
Compression Ratio : 6 : 01
Driving Ratio : 18 : 01
Fuel type : No. 90
Lubrication Oil : Motorcycle Synthetic 2 Stroke Oil
Mixing Ration for Fuel and Oil : 16:1 for break period (first 300 miles)
25-30:1 after

Spark Plug : Z4C 14MM
Fuel Consumption : 120-170 MPG

Clutch Type : Friction Plate / Dry
Speed Limitation : 25-40MPH
 
The clutch in alot of these engines will seize up from sitting in storage for months on end. This is the most common problem with clutches on brand new engines.
It is easy to un stick though.
Remove the clutch release cover, the one held on with 3 screws that is over the engine sprocket.
You may need a simple hand impact driver to do so.
After you get it removed you will see the clutch release shaft sticking out from the center of the engine sprocket. Hit this shaft once with a hammer to loosen up the clutch plates.
Do not hit it so hard as to knock it into next week. Just one good strike will do fine.
While you have it apart it is a very good idea to pull out the release shaft and the single ball bearing behind it (you may need a magnet to get the ball bearing out). Apply a good dab of axle grease to the hole they came out of, put in the ball bearing, add another dab of grease in the hole and put in the release shaft. The factory does not use enough grease when they assemble these engines.

Re attach the clutch release cover, tighten the screws securely, and the clutch should work fine.
If not, let us know and we can guide you further into other possibilities.
 
wow thank you! i will give that a swing. i guess that when that Rod in the middle of the lil sprocket behind the clutch release cover............ should be pressed in to present a type of nuetral for the chain??????? I have greased the lil Shaft in the cover for the sprocket,,,, but the shape of it(the Shaft attached to cable) has me see that the maybe the Rod in sprocket should extrude out for "nuetral".... because the lil Shaft looks to be cut to where no pressure to Rod until i pull cable. I am just throwing all this out ,,, now that i have someone giving me good guide suggestions. if clutch works all i need now is a longer chain for the stretch cruiser i built!!!!!!! I bought extra chain links at Lowes that look exact size of original BUT i guess 41(the size) is not the exact size or the factory size of my engine....lol i guess i'm a 40???? wellll i cant fing my chain size at any scooter or motorcycle shop!!!!!!!!!!!!! YET
 
P.S. if some one's advise has me on the road Friday (payday) there is a reward..... accessory, part for bike, cash, or i'll order a pizza to you here online!!!!!!!!!!
 
Your bike should have a #41 chain.
Some came with a #415 chain. Although it will work, it really is too big for the job.
A heavy duty BMX chain will work as well. They are #41

The little clutch release pin in the center of the engine sprocket should stick out about 1cm or 7/16" or close to it.
If it does not, my best guess is you are missing the ball bearing that goes in the hole before it.
The bearing has to be in between the internal clutch release and the little rod sticking out of the center of the sprocket.
Check this out, you can see how it all works:
http://motorbicycling.com/f30/animated-view-ht-clutch-assembly-countershaft-8939.html

Thankyou Creative Engineering/ Manic Mechanic for making it!!!
 
Thank you for the link........ gearnut .... maybe, but i hope not, the spring behind the friction plate on other side is bo good?????? and heavy duty BMX is that dirt bike or bicycle chain?????? the bike chain on my beach cruiser look too thin to even check for fittin.... gearnut if what i found with you works..... you will have pizza for football
 
#415 is a small motorcycle or industrial chain. It is much wider and beefier than a bicycle chain.
Heavy duty #41 BMX chain is what the professional BMX bicycle racers use. The link plates are thicker and stronger than a typical bicycle chain. The rollers are made to withstand more abuse as well.

Thankyou very kindly for the offer of pizza. I do not need any kind of reward though.
I am just glad to be of help.
If I am actually able to help you fix the problem, all I ask is for you to pay it foward.
Help out someone else in need.
 
Tdaddy Hi And Welcome. Go To "tncscooters.com" In Their Chain Section They Have A Run Down On Chain Size, Pitch = Distance From Center Of Pin To Center Of Next Pin. Then They Have Diferent Roller Diameter And Different Width. Bmx Is Bicycle Chain, For 1/8" Wide Sprocket Teeth. IT SHOULD WORK ON YOUR ENGINE It Is On The Trick Bicycles And Coaster Bicycle. Your Narrow Chain Is For 3/16" Wide Teeth On Shifter Bicycles. There Is Different Widths In The 1/2" Pitch Chains. Most Bicycle Chain Is 1/2" Pitch. With Different Widths .hope This Helps. Ron .cvlt1
 
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Thank you !!!!!! i found a 415 kmc heavy duty bmx chain. it was a perfect size!

my only problem now is the clutch!!! i tapped with hammer,,, then pulled out rod to check bearing ball... so well greased couldnt see it or pull it with my magnet..
i tried to fit another ball to check but rod stuck out too far then, so i must have original ball still.....????? so is the only thing left is to check outherside for the spring or something? is there more to do while im on the more easy access side?
 
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