New Acquisition

[tyrslider]

So This bike was one of a lot of 5 bikes for $30. There is also a nice fuji mtb in decent cond, an "ok" quality mtb of no recognizeable name and 2 lowest quality huffys.

I've been wanting to build one for some time! I think I'll keep w/ the yellow and swap out the rust for black.

The wheels were almost completely succesfully reclamed by the great mother. Which is ok 'cause I'm gonna have to build a set anyway. Although a good worksman wheel w/ its 11 guage spokes should be able to handle the "rubber donut treatment" it's really my least favorite set-up in the kits. And the front has no surface to apply brakes to. Everything else should survive w/ blasting and paint.

For you wheel efficianados, aren't those wheels both laced up incorrectly? And it seems that was their demise!

 

[jasonh]

nice find!

 

[FileStyle]

if only bicycles could talk!

 

[mechanickid]

i like that frame! i wonder if the brake still works

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

What kind/year bike is that?

 

[xPosTech]

So This bike was one of a lot of 5 bikes for $30. <snip>
For you wheel efficianados, aren't those wheels both laced up incorrectly? And it seems that was their demise!

It's really hard to tell from the pics. I think I see some crossing four, others crossing only two? If my eyes are just crossing (which they sometimes do) it may be that they weren't kept tensioned.

Also with 11g or 12g spokes sometimes it's hard (if they've been re-laced) to seat/bend/weave them. If I had to say yea or nay, I would have to say they are incorrect. For normal cross 3, those leaving the hub on the inside should go under, under and over; those leaving the hub on the outside should go over, over and under the spokes they cross.

Worn/rounded nipples are another indicator if they have been re-laced. At any rate, you ain't gonna try to save them.

The best thing you can do to your wheels (not these I hope) is bring all spokes to the same tension (at least per side for dished) and then true them. There is ample instruction around on building/maintaining wheels.

Ted

 

[tyrslider]

It's a Worksman industrial bike I'm not sure how old. I'm gonna see if Worksman can tell me (from the serial #) the year and maybe even who they sold it to. Boeing used to use a lot of these for personel transport.

The spokes are 3 cross, some were no longer attached to the rim (explains odd crossing) but these went under under under and over over over. After speeking again to the previous owner about what happened to them (after all when 2 worksman wheels are destroyed you have to know) it turns out his hog got out and layed up against it No really! But I saw no evidince of relacing that's what's perplexing. I completely disassembled both wheels and had enough straight ones to lace an mb freewheel hub onto a steel rim I got off another of the five bikes in the lot. And the front doesn't need to be heavy duty so I left it's match intact and I'll mount u brakes front and rear for now. I'm going through it and making everything work right but I still want it to look old or else I would have built new wheels for it. (I may eventually anyway). Part of it too is the challenge of spending as little as possible to make a real heavy duty mb.

The frame has a zerk on the bottom bracket, I think the bottom half of the frame is full of grease!

I'm fitting a 4 stroke into it and it's tight so I'm making a custom engine mount out of 3/8" Aluminum plate. I'll post some pics tomorrow. The bike is completely disassembled and I'm just getting the motor prefitted then removed before I prep the frame for paint; I don't have to worry about scratches that way and it'll go together like legos after paint.

Oh yeah the rear brake works I'm sure but the bearings need lube. I'll tell ya though if I even considered using the "rubber donut sprocket" that would be the hub, it's beefy!