Need some help with monarch replica front susp.

[Waspswatter]

I'm installing monarch forks on a '70's era Schwinn, but the wheel is way too wide for the fork. I've seen these forks on many bikes, so I hope there's a solution to my problem. The wheel is approximately 3.5 inches wide outside the nuts, and the fork "arms" are only 2.75 (as it arrived). I tried changing out the spacers, but even with the arms and washers on the outside, the lock nuts, (now on the inside) of the fork are too close to clear the spokes.

On the fork pic, the right side is how it arrived, the left side is how I tried to swap spacers to make more room. However, that has the arm riding (rotating) against the powdercoat. I don't think that's going to work.

Ummm. I'm stumped. Anybody else install one of these on an old Schwinn wheel?

 

[AslansMonkey]

Can you put the silver plates with the drop outs on the OUTSIDE of the forks? I can't tell from the photo but it looks like that might be possible.

You may also be able to widen things using a scissor jack, but again, it's not clear if this is possible from the photos.

 

[Goat Herder]

By looking at the pict the forks silver hinge plates are already uneven? I think this is doable. Look close at the washers there not square on side is on top of the washers while the other is under them.

 

[Goat Herder]

Shoot that would make the wheel sit uneven. Bike would be tracking wrong.

 

[Waspswatter]

Can you put the silver plates with the drop outs on the OUTSIDE of the forks? I can't tell from the photo but it looks like that might be possible.

You may also be able to widen things using a scissor jack, but again, it's not clear if this is possible from the photos.

I'm not sure you could even widen the fork legs enough, and they would be VERY spread out.

I tried putting the silver plates on the outside of the fork legs, but then the lock-nuts (on the inside) are too far in and the spokes hit them. The way the fork pins are constructed, they have a wider section for the washers and "arm" thingies, and a narrower section that passes through the fork leg. So the assembly has to me either inside or outside of the legs, but with the arms on the outside, the lock-nuts on the inside hit the spokes.

I don't have any experience building or modifying bikes, so I don't know if these wheels are wider than "normal". It seems like the forks just might not work on these wheels. I dunno.

 

[sportscarpat]

Read this first.
ratrodbikes.com • View topic - Monark fork Repair
Then place the swing arm plates outside the fork legs. From the outside working in place the shoulder bolt through the swing arm, place the two spacer washers on, run the shoulder bolt through the fork tube holes, add the small washer then the lock nut. Look closely at the pictures. If you really want them perfect just send them to me and I will make them right. I even align all the fork tube ends and fix the fork so you can press on a crown race. Crown race included.

 

[Waspswatter]

Read this first.
ratrodbikes.com • View topic - Monark fork Repair
Then place the swing arm plates outside the fork legs. From the outside working in place the shoulder bolt through the swing arm, place the two spacer washers on, run the shoulder bolt through the fork tube holes, add the small washer then the lock nut. Look closely at the pictures. If you really want them perfect just send them to me and I will make them right. I even align all the fork tube ends and fix the fork so you can press on a crown race. Crown race included.

How much is the service? I'm definately interested since I plan to use these forks on my next build even if they don't work on this one.

I changed out the plates and hardware and took some more pics. As you can see, the problem is the width of the spokes at the base, (about 3 inches) and the width between the lock-nuts, (only 2 5/8ths inches) . There just doesn't seem to be enough room. What is the width on the Worksman wheels?
The pics don't show well, but the nuts are partially inside the spokes, (even I know that that's not a good idea)

BTW, I love your bike.

 

[sportscarpat]

Your still not quite right. Here is the stack up order. Shoulder bolt, swing arm, both big washers, fork leg, little washer, nylock. Also, the big washers that come with the forks are 1/2" on the I.D. and really need to be 7/16", and the 1/2" washers are too thick so the shoulder bolt cannot bottom on the shoulder. If the shoulder can't bottom out correctly then the fork locks up at the swing arms, rendering the forks without any spring action. As for that hub you have it will never work with these forks as the spoke flange width is too wide, causing the spokes to hit the nylocks. Standard cruiser width is 110mm or about 4 3/8". Monarks work at this width when the swing arms are properly flipped to the outside. You should find a different front wheel.

 

[CoastalCruiser]

Put the bolt heads on the inside and the plates on the outside. If the bolts are too short get some longer ones. You will also likely want to put some washers in to space the plates further apart. Hope this helps give you ideas.

 

[Waspswatter]

Your still not quite right. Here is the stack up order. Shoulder bolt, swing arm, both big washers, fork leg, little washer, nylock. Also, the big washers that come with the forks are 1/2" on the I.D. and really need to be 7/16", and the 1/2" washers are too thick so the shoulder bolt cannot bottom on the shoulder. If the shoulder can't bottom out correctly then the fork locks up at the swing arms, rendering the forks without any spring action. As for that hub you have it will never work with these forks as the spoke flange width is too wide, causing the spokes to hit the nylocks. Standard cruiser width is 110mm or about 4 3/8". Monarks work at this width when the swing arms are properly flipped to the outside. You should find a different front wheel.

Well shoot, it doesn't make sense to me to find a new wheel since the whole point of using a vintage bike is "using a vintage bike". Maybe I'll try to make my own bolts and spacers that will fit. I read some people's posts about how they put their motorized bike together in a weekend. Mine is going on 10 months, (but hey, I've been sick).

Thanks to everyone for your help. God bless the United States of America!

 

[Venice Motor Bikes]

Here's what I do... I redrill the holes in the fork legs to the same size as the holes in the dropouts. Then move the dropouts to the outside of the fork legs & put the shoulder bolts through from the inside so that the nylock nuts are on the out side of the fork legs & throw away the large spacer washers. I also leave the bolts just loose enough the let the suspension work freely.
If you still need a little extra room for the wheel?, just bend the fork legs apart a bit.

This pic doesn't fully show everything, but you can get the picture.

 

[Waspswatter]

Here's what I do... I redrill the holes in the fork legs to the same size as the holes in the dropouts. Then move the dropouts to the outside of the fork legs & put the shoulder bolts through from the inside so that the nylock nuts are on the out side of the fork legs & throw away the large spacer washers. I also leave the bolts just loose enough the let the suspension work freely.
If you still need a little extra room for the wheel?, just bend the fork legs apart a bit.

This pic doesn't fully show everything, but you can get the picture.

Nice, I may have to give that a try, (after measuring to make sure even that will clear the spokes).

 

[Waspswatter]

Here's what I do... I redrill the holes in the fork legs to the same size as the holes in the dropouts. Then move the dropouts to the outside of the fork legs & put the shoulder bolts through from the inside so that the nylock nuts are on the out side of the fork legs & throw away the large spacer washers. I also leave the bolts just loose enough the let the suspension work freely.
If you still need a little extra room for the wheel?, just bend the fork legs apart a bit.

This pic doesn't fully show everything, but you can get the picture.

Just a couple more questions;

I see you painted them. did you just use spray paint?

Right now I weigh 125 pounds, (seriously, I've been sick). I'm worried that the springs will be too stiff for my weight and not give any suspension. Anybody have an idea about how to reduce the spring rate?

.

 

[corgi1]

The spring thing kinda works with impact,you can set a ten pound weight on top of your foot and it doesnt hurt,but if you drop it from carring position it moves the top of the shoe much further

 

[Venice Motor Bikes]

Just a couple more questions;

I see you painted them. did you just use spray paint?

Right now I weigh 125 pounds, (seriously, I've been sick). I'm worried that the springs will be too stiff for my weight and not give any suspension. Anybody have an idea about how to reduce the spring rate?

.

I had them powder coated to match the frame.
Don't worry about the spring rate... It will work just fine for you!