Need Help Plz

W

White Wolf

New Member
Hey guys I just got my 68.5cc engine (from zoombicycles) and I was wondering if any1 can link me to what parts I have to seal and which parts I have to lubricate.

I just dont want to screw this up. Its my first build. Thx guys


White Wolf cflg
 
Any part that moves against another part needs lubrication, any cover that holds fluids in needs sealing.
 
I use a hot glue gun to seal around the wire as it exits the generator case and where the wires come out of that short protective sleeve. No other sealing is needed on the motor. The larger cover on the other side, remove it and put some grease on the teeth about a 1/4" size ball worth. Unscrew the clutch cable mount from the motor and use something to push some grease down that hole. I use a moly graphite grease. When you replace the clutch cable mount make sure you don't screw it in so far as to bind the clutch shaft. Pull the clutch cable out of the sheath and grease it too. Use some double stick foam tape under the tank and cdi. So you don't have to over tighten the tank mounts. If you tighten them too much they will eventually start leaking. GL

PS. It's a good idea to get some of the charcoal looking 1/16" thick gasket paper right now and make a better intake to cylinder gasket. The easiest way is to contact cement a piece to the intake then it's easy to use a hobby knife to trim it to a perfect fit. Most guys use some rtv sealer on the intake tube to carb. Just not to much. If you get good seals at those two places you'll save yourself alot of grief.
 
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The intake and exhaust manifold gaskets could use replacing with quality ones, best to cut your own from good, comparatively thick gasket material. Just ask at your local auto parts store to see what they have, NAPA is a good bet. The ones that come with the kit are usually junk. See if you can't dig up a O-ring to seal between the carb and the intake manifold, you don't get one with the kit - and that fitting leaks like **** w/o one.

Obviously you would need lube the chain, but a lil tip - use motorcycle chain lube not bicycle, it holds up much longer. 'Parafilm' is a waxy type I used on my dirtbikes and now use on my MB, it lasts forever!

All the cables need lube too, the clutch and throttle cables are pretty much dry when you get them. Don't forget inside the twist grip, where the plastic chafes the housing. Any cable lube will do, I've never been able to tell any difference anyway lol

Last but not least would be a TINY amount of grease between the big and little gears under the clutch housing. You wanna use a very good, thick grease for this, a marine grade if you can find it - but only say a dab 1/2 the size of a pencil eraser or less. You do not want excess grease flinging into your clutch, so clean up any old stuff while yer in there.

Other than basic bicycle stuff - I think that covers it, one of the charms of these things is they're so simple.

Yer gonna have a blast :D
 
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try Chain Saw chain oil, we live in the sticks and they fall down every winter, plus we rely ona wood stove for most of our heat, but that is good oil
 
Comrade Alfonzo said:
try Chain Saw chain oil, we live in the sticks and they fall down every winter, plus we rely ona wood stove for most of our heat, but that is good oil
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Thanks bro, that's an awesome tip. Im just running bike chain lube from crappy tire.

I love wood stoves but their only good for half the house lol. (I used to live in the sicks too)


White Wolf cflg


P.S. I just got it running guys, just need to take a couple links out of the chain. Then I think Im all set!!! I will take some pics tomorrow, and post them in my thread, in Paint Booth & Chop Shop.
Come check it out tomorrow guys, it looks killer!!!!
 
You might want to remember to "Greese Up" the bicycle wheel bearings real good. The wheels will be turning 5 to 6 times faster then just peddeling. I also cleaned and re-greesed the peddle cranck bearings as well. Be careful with the little gob of greese on the large and small clutch gear, it will get on the clutch and slip. Also very important open up the cover for the clutch arm and put greese on the vetical lever. The dimentions for the intake tube "O Ring" where the carb tube joines together is 5/8 ID x 3/4 OD x 1/16 wall. This will prevent any air leaks at the area. When joining the carb tube to the intake tube, press together firmly when you tighten the clamp on the carb tube. My friend bought a Zoom Motor, but when he needed parts or had a questions/problem, NO ONE answered the phone. THATS DAX is an excellant resource for parts and talking you throught problems as they come up.

Good Luck,...........Dave
 
davearoy said:
You might want to remember to "Greese Up" the bicycle wheel bearings real good. The wheels will be turning 5 to 6 times faster then just peddeling. I also cleaned and re-greesed the peddle cranck bearings as well. Be careful with the little gob of greese on the large and small clutch gear, it will get on the clutch and slip. Also very important open up the cover for the clutch arm and put greese on the vetical lever. The dimentions for the intake tube "O Ring" where the carb tube joines together is 5/8 ID x 3/4 OD x 1/16 wall. This will prevent any air leaks at the area. When joining the carb tube to the intake tube, press together firmly when you tighten the clamp on the carb tube. My friend bought a Zoom Motor, but when he needed parts or had a questions/problem, NO ONE answered the phone. THATS DAX is an excellant resource for parts and talking you throught problems as they come up.

Good Luck,...........Dave
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Actually when I was putting the motor together I removed all the bolts and then saw that grease u were talking about, well I removed that and applied white lithium grease.
Then I used sike bike parts, engine hardware to put it back together. But I didn;t open the engine. Should I of???

All ur help is greatly appreciate the tips guys :)
 
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