Need guidance with first build!

D0ppleganger

D0ppleganger

New Member
Howdy!

I'm new, I live in Texas and enjoy all types of projects.
I enjoy hunting, fishing, vehicles of any type, basically anything that's fun :D
Thanks for Looking!

I'm in the process of building my first motorbike and am at the point where I need to place the chain on the motor's sprocket, but the sprocket won't turn. I have removed the spark plug, and attempted to use the "tool" included in the kit... but it wont thread on (not sure why, no alterations have been made to any of the parts.)

I have attached pictures the first is specifically of the sprocket on the motor, the second is of the entire bike.
Any help would be appreciated!
scratg

(edit) I've been looking around and it seems that some kits come with a wrench that turns the sprocket... mine didn't come with a wrench, just a large hollow bolt with another bolt inside of it.
 

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if you have a socket that size, you can use a ratchet. just put it over the nut and turn it clockwise, feeding the chain in from the bottom.

i like to install the clutch lever, cable, etc. first. then with the clutch gear cover in place, and with it all hooked up to the arm, you can lock the lever so the clutch is engaged and feed the chain in from the top real smooth-like.
 
Sometimes the sprocket will not turn even with the clutch disengaged. This is caused by the clutch plates sticking together. Take a hammer and smack the little pin in the center of the sprocket, it will likely loosen things up.
 
hmm hitting it with a hammer.. i'm a little hesitant, but even when the clutch lever is installed it doesn't budge... at all. so maybe the plates are sticking... ill go try it.
kinda afraid to booger the engine up though.

I happen to NOT have the appropriate ratchet size :/
but I guess it's hitting it with a hammer, then finding an appropriate ratchet to turn the sprocket?
 
I hit it with a hammer, quite a bit. Didn't budge.
Looks like ill have to find an appropriate socket but no clue what size :(

the 'tool' they gave me is included in the pictures below, it seems when i try to screw it on, it just happens to be a tad bit too big (even when I remove the bolt threaded into this one.)
no clue where to go from here... thoughts?
 

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D0ppleganger said:
hmm hitting it with a hammer.. i'm a little hesitant, but even when the clutch lever is installed it doesn't budge... at all. so maybe the plates are sticking... ill go try it.
kinda afraid to booger the engine up though.

I happen to NOT have the appropriate ratchet size :/
but I guess it's hitting it with a hammer, then finding an appropriate ratchet to turn the sprocket?
Click to expand...
You won't need to beat it to death, or even enough to damage the pin. What Joe meant was to give it good solid rap. If you're squeamish, use a plastic headed hammer or a block of wood. While you have the clutch actuator cover off, lubricate the moving parts inside it and also the pin that is protruding from the center of the sprocket and the ball bearing that is behind the pin. Often the clutch friction pads are stuck to the pressure plate from the factory and will require a little gentle persuasion to get them to let go. Another option is to 'lever' the sprocket around with a flat bladed screwdriver but you can break the motor case so use cautiuon doing it this way. Let us know how you make out.
 
I tried tapping it with a hammer, with the clutch cover off. All of the parts have been greased including the ball bearing. Ill try your lever method and see if it helps, could it be that my motor is frozen (its brand new)?
could it be that the piston/piston rings be caught?
 
the head and jug come off real easy if you believe it is frozen. just 4 nuts on the head. and make sure when you put it back on that you piston rings are lined back up with the slots on the rings and the pins in the piston groove. and while you have it off you might as well take some 400 grit sand paper and smooth the edges of all the ports so you dont have to worry about snagging a ring on the poor casting of these engines. just make sure you wipe it out real good before putting it back on. Also believe 14mm if I remember right is the size of the head nuts. the size of socket needed for the gear is 19mm and be sure to turn clockwise and feed chain from the bottom.
 
My engine was pretty stuck too when I first installed it. I draped the chain over the forward-lower part of the sprocket (see circled area in photo) and then yanked the chain towards the back of the bike with the clutch pulled in. This seemed to break the sprocket free, and it rotated a little more freely afterwards.

Hope this helps...
 
customshop05 said:
the head and jug come off real easy if you believe it is frozen. just 4 nuts on the head. and make sure when you put it back on that you piston rings are lined back up with the slots on the rings and the pins in the piston groove. and while you have it off you might as well take some 400 grit sand paper and smooth the edges of all the ports so you dont have to worry about snagging a ring on the poor casting of these engines. just make sure you wipe it out real good before putting it back on. Also believe 14mm if I remember right is the size of the head nuts. the size of socket needed for the gear is 19mm and be sure to turn clockwise and feed chain from the bottom.
Click to expand...
Do not disassemble your engine unless you want to chance voiding your warranty. Most kit suppliers will not take the engine back if you have taken it apart. Many members have had trouble getting a new engine to move at first. Try moving the clutch lever inward as far as you can move it by hand. It takes a lot of force but it can be done. Wrap a rag around the clutch arm and apply a lot of pressure. Often the clutch pads will release by doing this. You will hear a 'thunk' sound when they let go. All new engines are a little tight. Give it a chance and only disassemble it if you can afford to buy a new one if your seller will not take it back.
Tom
 
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First, Thank all of you so much for offering your thoughts!
I tried 2door's method of levering the sprocket with a screwdriver and it broke free, this also allowed me to "flex" the clutch when I remounted the lever.
cannonfish, you had a good thought, would've tried it next had the screwdriver application not worked.
I talked to a friend close by and he mentioned removing the piston and such (but advised it would only be worth while if it was used) but since it was new and I wouldn't want to void the warranty I strayed away from that idea.

Everything is now installed and the only thing I'm currently having trouble with is what length should I set the default gap on the carb? It came closed (no gap).

Also, any advice on breaking in a new engine and such is welcome!

Thanks,

Craig
 
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Craig,
Not quite sure what you mean by "default gap". Are you refering to the cylindrical slide in the carburetor? That is the throttle barrel which is lifted by the throttle cable. The heigth determins the idle speed which is adjusted by the small screw, the one with the spring on it. You'll need to have the engine running before you can adjust that speed, therefore the 'gap' I think you're looking at. Seal the carb to the intake manifold with a good silicone gasket sealer, filling the gaps on the carb tabs.
As for break in, just don't abuse your engine for the first few miles or the first couple of tanks of fuel. I use Opti-2 oil at 100:1 mix but that is frowned on by many who believe that a good quality two stroke oil mixed 24:1 is a good break in mix. After a couple of gallons you can reduce the oil to a 32:1 mix and you should be good. Have fun, ride safe and let us know if you need further help.
Tom
 
2door said:
Craig,
Not quite sure what you mean by "default gap". Are you refering to the cylindrical slide in the carburetor? That is the throttle barrel which is lifted by the throttle cable. The heigth determins the idle speed which is adjusted by the small screw, the one with the spring on it. You'll need to have the engine running before you can adjust that speed, therefore the 'gap' I think you're looking at. Seal the carb to the intake manifold with a good silicone gasket sealer, filling the gaps on the carb tabs.
As for break in, just don't abuse your engine for the first few miles or the first couple of tanks of fuel. I use Opti-2 oil at 100:1 mix but that is frowned on by many who believe that a good quality two stroke oil mixed 24:1 is a good break in mix. After a couple of gallons you can reduce the oil to a 32:1 mix and you should be good. Have fun, ride safe and let us know if you need further help.
Tom
Click to expand...

Tom, yes, I was referring to the throttle barrel. What I am saying is how much should I preset the gap (between throttle barrel and carb wall)...or is there no such recommended 'preset' idler setting?
Basically what's the easiest approach to starting it up? haha

Hopefully by tomorrow I'll be looking like this > usflg :)
Not sure what you mean by 'carb tabs'.
 
Dop,
Carb tabs was probably not a good term to use. The carburetor has slots down the throat where it slides onto the intake manifold. That is so it can be tightened or squeazed, around the manifold by the clamp. What I meant was to fill those slots or gaps with the sealer before installing the carb. You'll want a good air tight seal at the carburetor. Hope that clarifies it for you. Good luck.
Tom
 
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