My First Project: Briggs 3 hp

GoldenMotor.com

What kind of clutch?

  • Go-kart centrifugal clutch (with pulley)

    Votes: 22 73.3%
  • Manual friction clutch (with pulley and adjustable tensioner)

    Votes: 8 26.7%

  • Total voters
    30

discontinuuity

New Member
May 24, 2010
92
0
0
Colorado, USA
Well I just spent $80 on go-kart parts. There goes my $100 budget! But I think the $130 I've spent so far is pretty good compared to the crappy 50cc two-stroke I could get for the same price. And my price includes the bike frame!

I'll start putting together around Thanksgiving/Christmas time, and hopefully have it on the road by New Years.
 

homebuiltbikes

New Member
Nov 18, 2010
28
0
0
tallahassee florida
Not to throw you off but I went with a torque converter and a jack shaft. converters are hard to get but there out there. check different suppliers. its like an auto trans and has a higher top speed. just throwing you something to think about. see my album if ya can.
 

discontinuuity

New Member
May 24, 2010
92
0
0
Colorado, USA
I'd like to have a torque converter, but they're about $150 and up, and I'm on a budget. Maybe some day I'll upgrade.

I got my roller chain in the mail yesterday and I did a bit of work on the wheels and motor mounts today, but I might not be able to weld much since it's snowing out now and I don't have a garage.

Thanks for the encouragement!
 

discontinuuity

New Member
May 24, 2010
92
0
0
Colorado, USA
I got a shipment of parts yesterday so I can start putting things together. I probably won't have time to do everything until after finals, but I can start.

Unfortunately I got a pulley stuck partway on my keyed shaft (there must've been a scratch on the shaft that ground into the pulley). Anyone have tips for getting it off? I'm soaking it in motor oil right now.
 
Dec 18, 2009
97
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0
new jersey
yeah......heat it up real good and it'll slide off. if you have a propane/mapp gas torch it might take longer, but if you have an oxygen acetylene torch its quick.when its hot take a wrench and a hammer, put your foot on the motor, put the open side of the wrench behind the pulley, and hit the wrench....you get the idea. once there hot you could pull them off with your hand....but you dont want to do that now do ya?
 

discontinuuity

New Member
May 24, 2010
92
0
0
Colorado, USA
Yeah I got the pulley off just by hitting it real hard with a hammer! Now I just gotta file it down so it fits without binding up.

I'll most some pictures once I get batteries for my camera.
 

discontinuuity

New Member
May 24, 2010
92
0
0
Colorado, USA
Got the jackshaft put together:


I've got to cut part of the jackshaft off. I'm thinking I might try spinning it with the engine while holding a hacksaw up to the shaft. Does that sound like a good idea or will I break something and kill myself?

I also put the clutch on the engine (I'll get pictures of that when I get it mounted right). The instructions that came with the clutch told me to use a bold and washer to hold the clutch onto the end of the output shaft, but there's no hole on the shaft for this. Is it really that important?

I probably won't have many more updates until I'm done with finals in a couple weeks.
 

cannonball2

Well-Known Member
Oct 28, 2010
3,682
223
63
Colonial Coast USA.
If you would like to see a bike similar to what you are building enter the word veteran in the search. Im sorry I dont know how to link. I built this bike years ago and still have it. Notice the "pedals" are fixed and are really foot rests. The law in my state says a motorbike must have pedals. Never said they must pedal it though. I carry a copy of the law in my wallet and have been stopped a few times but have never had an issue. Check your law, you might want to use those old pedals!
 

cannonball2

Well-Known Member
Oct 28, 2010
3,682
223
63
Colonial Coast USA.
The gas tank is a section of aluminum tube main spar from a damaged ultralight. Welded on end caps and fittings. Am currently doing a build that I am going to use a section of 3 inch exhaust tubing that has been ovaled for the tank. Am using a similar straight top bar frame and hope to fit it below the bar. The tank on the old bike holds about 3 quarts, the new one should hold a little more as it will be slightly longer.
 

MarkSumpter

New Member
Nov 27, 2010
474
0
0
Ohio
Copied and pasted a link on how to copy and paste links.

Copy and Paste - Learn how to Cut, Copy and Paste in seconds! - making copies, moving text, editing on the computer
Comes in real handy for sharing stuff. This one even has a little practice thing.

Sorry about the OT. In the great words of Pablo;

"Now back to the regularly scheduled thread."
Hey Dan you might want to link to quoting and multiple quoting posts also. Dont know if there is a help thread for it or not.
 

MarkSumpter

New Member
Nov 27, 2010
474
0
0
Ohio
One thing you will find if calling a parts supplier or even the Mfr of an older engine is that while many of the parts are common in newer engines for the most part the CS people assisting you are simply unfamiliar with older equipment and dont know the commonalities or what will work with what. Sometimes it is the fact that they carry so many different parts for different products that there is no way they can keep up with the new stuff let alone the old.

Part# 37 is the shroud cover in this diagram that measure twice was looking for. Because of the way it is drawn into perspective it is easily overlooked.



A couple of things measure twice and Goat Herder mentioned:

Measure Twice Said: This isnt a direct quote but it was on the subject of getting a Muffler that had a spark arrestor in it and hoping that it satisfied authorities for trail riding...
I think in a previous thread you also mentioned using a Tecumseh Carb and intake. Besides the inherent difficulties of getting proper air to fuel mix when mixing and matching different manufacturers parts especially carbs, most people that use the horizontal shaft engines on go carts and off roaders will adapt a pulse operated carb like a Tillotson or Zama so the do not have an issue of fuel splash in the bowl reducing power.

Goat Herder said: Again this is not a direct quote but it had to deal with the aftermarket Electronic Ignition modules being made to work on all engines.
The promise of electronic ignition modules for older machines is a great thing because beside the fact of providing a hotter and more consistent spark to the plug they also eliminate moisture failure of the points and high RPM condenser breakdown that plague older engines, not to mention the fact that they could decrease the need for service knowledge such as how to properly time points to cylinder TDC position as in in some Tecumseh engines in particular .

However after using many of these aftermarket kits since their inception and despite great strides in quality and reliability, I will generally use OEM ignition parts if available.

I have had loads of module failures and many that simply will not work one one engine where another of the same type will and the first still work on a different engine. In short they are temperamental, unreliable and can frustrate the bejusus out of you.

When we installed these modules in the shop, whether it was because OEM parts weren't available or the customer just wanted it to eliminate points and improve performance we made it explicitly clear to them that there was absolutely no warranty on the part, labor or subsequent damage that could arise from using an electronic module on their machine.

I had a few that grumped about that policy and not guarantying what we did or sold and my response was usually to write down the address of a competing shop that would do it and give them what they wanted because it in the end saved me money to do so. I think Randy that owned our competitor finally caught on to the fact that I was sending him headaches and he also adopted our policy.
 
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