hey all, i am having some troubles mounting my motor, i can get the back mount nice and tight, fitting well but the front ones on an angle to the tube so it doesn't sit flush would it be possible to make a packer so it sits nicely, any ideas would be greatly appreciated ,cheers
mounting problems
- Thread starter darbyman
- Start date
KCvale
Well-Known Member
Just buy a SBP front mount adapter and specify your front diameter for the U bolt.
http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalo...ducts_id=74&osCsid=b5e280ul3ctpkrd49p41ej53l4
You can orient then up and down or tall and short.
Then size it so you back mount is flush to the seat tube as yours is not.
For your exhaust problem just bend your tailpipe or you can simply 'reamy-reamy' the mount holes in it with a drill bit the size of the 2 mount holes and just make them oblong (vertical to the pipe bend) so you can twist the pipe in.
Those are just 2 routine things I do for any bike the motor don't just drop into or the pipe won't fit right.
http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalo...ducts_id=74&osCsid=b5e280ul3ctpkrd49p41ej53l4
You can orient then up and down or tall and short.
Then size it so you back mount is flush to the seat tube as yours is not.
For your exhaust problem just bend your tailpipe or you can simply 'reamy-reamy' the mount holes in it with a drill bit the size of the 2 mount holes and just make them oblong (vertical to the pipe bend) so you can twist the pipe in.
Those are just 2 routine things I do for any bike the motor don't just drop into or the pipe won't fit right.
wheelbender6
Well-Known Member
I mounted the rear engine mount flush, since it takes the brunt of the stresses transmitted through the drive chain. I cushioned my front mount with some auto heater hose to increase the grip and dampen a little vibration.
Trey
$50 Cruiser
And if I may add; Unless you are sure of your grinder skills, try a hand file first. maniac57s solution is that you are fitting the two surfaces, and not adding another piece that may fail or something. Too much grinding and you're back to square one- but with less material to work with.
Good luck!
maniac57
Old, Fat, and still faster than you
New builders should probably use a file to avoid removing too much. As Trey said, the idea is to fit the surfaces better. I've also used a sheet of sandpaper wrapped around the tube to fit the soft aluminum mount block perfectly. The better the parts mate, the more secure the mount is. If the angle is off, this will make it right as long as it doesn't require much. If you remove too much material, you will break through the mount casting. If this happens, fill it with good steel epoxy for strength. (Not a bad idea anyway...)
I usually line up the front mount so its square and modify the rear to fit since it is so much easier to work. Shoot for a perfect 90degree angle in front, and grind the rear to fit flush against the tubing.
I usually line up the front mount so its square and modify the rear to fit since it is so much easier to work. Shoot for a perfect 90degree angle in front, and grind the rear to fit flush against the tubing.
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this is what I did:
The Sick Bike Parts front engine mount looks like it was basically a muffler clamp. I went to Auto Zone and bought two muffler clamps for about $4-$5. They clamps and nuts are heavy duty. I then cut up a piece of a Simpson Tie framing connector plate, dry fitted the engine with the back mount on, while holding it up in place with one hand, I put the muffler clamp up to where it would just about go through. I made a template out of cardboard and put it through the engine studs while doing it. It was a bit tricky doing it alone. I ended up having to put another muffler clamp and plates on top of the first one I did. It ended up really making it that much more secure.
It looks ugly as ****, but it solved the mounting problem I had.
The Sick Bike Parts front engine mount looks like it was basically a muffler clamp. I went to Auto Zone and bought two muffler clamps for about $4-$5. They clamps and nuts are heavy duty. I then cut up a piece of a Simpson Tie framing connector plate, dry fitted the engine with the back mount on, while holding it up in place with one hand, I put the muffler clamp up to where it would just about go through. I made a template out of cardboard and put it through the engine studs while doing it. It was a bit tricky doing it alone. I ended up having to put another muffler clamp and plates on top of the first one I did. It ended up really making it that much more secure.
It looks ugly as ****, but it solved the mounting problem I had.
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maniac57
Old, Fat, and still faster than you
That looks very similar to the mount I had to make to fit the ONEX 29'er frame.
Mine only used one clamp and the motor plate was welded to the clamp instead of bolting on top of the bolts like yours.
Worked very well.
Yours looks worse but also looks more secure...so I'll use two clamps next time the issue comes up. Good job!
yea, mine is pretty terrible looking. I've never welded before or have access to a welder so I didn't have much in terms of options. I basically just used a hacksaw and a hand drill.
I saw another post on the forum of a guy who cut up and used a $2 hockey puck as a front engine mount. I thought that was a great cheap solution.
I saw another post on the forum of a guy who cut up and used a $2 hockey puck as a front engine mount. I thought that was a great cheap solution.
