Monarch springer fork and drum brake

I have run the arm on either side :)
when I first got my hub laced up (4 yrs ago), I called Sturmey-Archer, and the tech told me it didn't matter which way the hub was oriented ;)
 
I have done this many times. Using the Worksman style drum I run the torque arm for the drum on the front right fork tube. I tig weld a small roundbar standoff to the inside of the fork tube. The torque arm slot then slips over this tab and keeps the arm from rotating. I also find the drum only fit in this relationship, that is to say the cable and torque arm only fit on the right side of the fork.
Pat
 
Board Track Racer said:
Yes it will fit, I had to spread my original set slightly to make it work. Keep in mind these forks were designed for a bicycle, depending on how much weight your adding to your bike might make a difference on the operation of the fork. My bike is pretty heavy and the springer really does not operate as it should, I'm looking into adding a different spring set up or a helper spring to the original.
Click to expand...

What kind of engine is that?
 
LOL, almost 4 hrs later. I rode to DMV's MC test thing to get an exact footage of stopping before swapping it around. (from RT to LFT) Came home and took off wheel. Realized why I had to put it on the RT. Needs to be drilled and ground out to allow being on the LFT side. I marked it off then decided to check inside for any wear or maint. needs. The lever just arm only opens a "C" so put it back the way it was. Ubolt and all. (but in my defense, I did put some electrical tape on to protect the forks paint)

1st pic, just the hub, marked where to be altered.
2nd, brake not engaged.
3rd, brake on and held open with a twist-tie.

Now gonna go ride her. .shft.
 

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sportscarpat said:
I have done this many times. Using the Worksman style drum I run the torque arm for the drum on the front right fork tube. I tig weld a small roundbar standoff to the inside of the fork tube. The torque arm slot then slips over this tab and keeps the arm from rotating. I also find the drum only fit in this relationship, that is to say the cable and torque arm only fit on the right side of the fork.
Pat
Click to expand...

That's what I did to the Panama Jack project. Very clean and bullet proof. Makes wheel removal so much easier than with a clamp.
 
My apoligies,after seeing the inside workings of the brake ,I concure that it will operate the same on either side,possible a more aggersive brake lever would travel further ,but offer stronger pull on the shoe lever(kinda' like a larger rear sproket causes more power to the rear wheel,,a small increase makes a big difference)
 
Board Track Racer said:
Yes it will fit, I had to spread my original set slightly to make it work. Keep in mind these forks were designed for a bicycle, depending on how much weight your adding to your bike might make a difference on the operation of the fork. My bike is pretty heavy and the springer really does not operate as it should, I'm looking into adding a different spring set up or a helper spring to the original.
Click to expand...

It wouldn't be to hard to switch the srings over to the large single spring used on the Monark Supertwin. Just change the top spring mount to one from the Supertwin and add the single post front fork section or weld a single post to the existing front fork. The parts show up once in a while on e-bay.
Geo.
 
corgi1 said:
My apoligies,after seeing the inside workings of the brake ,I concure that it will operate the same on either side,possible a more aggersive brake lever would travel further ,but offer stronger pull on the shoe lever(kinda' like a larger rear sproket causes more power to the rear wheel,,a small increase makes a big difference)
Click to expand...

Thought about it a bunch today Corgi. I think it may have some effect. Would be a much less passive contact if the "clam" opened into the on-coming drum. More of a positive contact. I dunno if it would be so much more it would matter much but in the interest of community knowledge and just plane curiosity, gonna try it and will report.

But you are right, longer brake arm would be a whole lot simpler and would work better.

hehe, my brain is froze up and have to think about this
 
Heres my brake using monark rockers, I added a support arm straight down to bolt the brake arm to, it works great.
 

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There are different handlebar brake levers for different leverage(pounds)pull also,,,and too,if the lever on the brake drum pivot is 1 inch from center and delivers 100 lbs power(work),would 1/4 inch additional length on that arm add 25 pounds of work force to the brake pivot,25 % more?(I do not know the real pounds force it delivers this is just a leverage advantage simulation thought)
Some old guy from way back when (probibly before my time)said something like "give me a lever long enough and I can move the world"
 
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