Modifying Staton Friction To Chain Drive

5-7HEAVEN

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Aug 2, 2008
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Modifying Station Friction Drive To Chain Drive

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Yesterday, I converted my Staton rear friction drive to chain gear drive on "Mr. Hyde", my twin-engined cruiser. Then I mounted that friction drive and a pocketbike engine onto "Girlie", my coaster-bike cruiser.

I had always wanted to use Staton chain drive on "Girlie" but was unaware if Staton's freewheel sprocket and hub would even mount on the cruiser's narrow dropout. I didn't want to buy the extra HD hub and 16Tsprocket anyway.

So I'm staring at the friction roller from the back of the bike. The rear wheel is an old chrome Spookytooth with 12g spokes and a 36T sprocket. It is a reminder of an unsuccessful attempt to mount a Happy Time engine on a girl's bike.

Peering intently for a long time under the friction drive assembly, the idea crawled out and bit me in the face...

Staton friction drive conversion to chain drive!

If I remove the engine and friction roller, a jackshaft can be created by sliding a 3/4" shaft and a 10T sprocket in its place under the housing. This sprocket lines up and chains to the 36T wheel sprocket. The shaft then extends less than 1" out the right side of the aluminum housing and supports another 10T sprocket. This cog is chained to the third 10T sprocket mounted onto the 5:1 gearbox, which is bolted onto your engine of choice. The Staton aluminum housing is drilled and slotted to mount your engine. Spacers under the engine adjusts the gearbox's chain tension, the Staton support rods adjusts the 36T's chain tension and the Staton front mounting bracket aligns the jackshaft's sprocket with the 36T cog.

The entire conversion might cost $100, as compared to maybe $500+ for
the Staton drive, HD hub and sprocket. It'd be cheaper and lighter with Staton quality components and engineering(mostly).

What do you guys think?
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Honey, it's just a bicycle. and i REALLY need it to excercise, and to ride it to work.(hehe)
 

5-7HEAVEN

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Actually Staton chain drive without engine is $469 plus $148 for HD hub and 16T sprocket plus $100 shipping(for me)=$717 plus some labor...

versus $125.60 for one jackshaft, 36T sprocket+hardware, three 10T sprockets, two locking collars, 5:1 gear box, two lengths of chain, engine plate + shipping plus some labor if machine shop drills and slots the plate.

seems well worth the conversion.
__________________
Honey, it's just a bicycle. and i REALLY need it to excercise, and to ride it to work.(hehe)
 

5-7HEAVEN

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deacon, for riders that have the Staton friction drive kit, it should be cheaper and lighter to convert to chain drive. Basically, the engine and friction roller are removed and a jackshaft installed in its place. The engine WAS bolted on the left side of the aluminum housing. Now it bolts atop the housing. Its centrifugal clutch is replaced with a 5:1 gearbox with a built-in centrifugal clutch. The engine sprocket faces to the right and connects to the jackshaft with another 10T sprocket which is outside/rightside of the aluminum housing.

Right now it's just an idea in my head, but should be do-able.
 

5-7HEAVEN

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Shoes, actually it is VERY similar to the Titan chain drive kit. Engine sits atop facing right, gearbox connects to jackshaft under the engine plate and the left-side jackshaft sprocket links to a Happy Time sprocket.

In fact, the 5:1 gearbox is from the Titan kit.^5
 

5-7HEAVEN

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I have two twin-engined monsters, "The Iron Dragon" and "The Dragon Lady". The "Lady" uses friction drive front and rear; the other uses front friction drive and rear chain drive.

The chain drive is superior to friction in every way except ease of installation. It's a good compromise if at least one drive assembly is chain drive. One of the reasons is to lessen resistance drag from friction drive. Two wheels with friction creates a LOT of drag, especially for the wheel with 1.5" roller which has to overcome the other wheel's drag at all speeds that the other engine is idling.

I'm still thinking of retrofitting the front friction assembly to chain drive. This could be done by mounting the engine w/5:1 gearbox atop the aluminum channel frame. Then install a front wheel with disc brake hub and sprocket top-hat adaptor to mount a 36tooth sprocket.

Still thinking about it. I got sidetracked by other projects..bld.
 

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5-7,

Can You Get The Sprockets You Need That Would Fit A 1/2" Or 5/8" Jackshaft? 3/4" Is Extra Heavy Duty. Ron
 
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5-7HEAVEN

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Ron, it's the generic gearbox offered by the Dax Titan kit. They sell it individually on his site and others. Dax has the much-needed 10t sprocket..bld.

i believe that the gearbox and sprocket sell for $40-something for both.
 

fred081646

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Hey 5-7 you have a sweet idea. I need to go to chain drive to pull my little trailer and camping supplies for my upcoming summer tour. I just bought a honda gx50 for the extra torque and then I remembered what a friction drive does on wet roads. My friction drive from staton uses 5/8" ID bearings so 3/4" shaft won't work for me. I think we can purchase the same bearings staton uses with the snap rings from applied,com. in the ID sizes we want. 2 bearings, a length of shaft, a couple of sprokets and we are ready to go. Thanks for the idea 5-7 I may go with it.
 

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5-7 the 5:1 RATIO TRANS WORKS PERFECT AS THE GEARS REVERSE ENGINE ROTATION MAKING IT CORRECT FOR THE RIGHT HAND SIDE CHAIN GOING TO THE JACK SHAFT. WITH 3 10 TOOTH SPROCKETS AND A 36 ON REAR WHEEL WILL GIVE A 18.1 FINAL RATIO. THAT SHOULD BE PLENTY OF STARTING POWER. THE BELT DRIVE IS A I TO 1 RATIO ON THE ENGINE AS THE DRIVE COG IS 1 INCH IN DIAMETER AND THE WHEEL SHEAVE IS AROUND 16 INCH DIA. I HAVE 1/2 DOZ OF THE FIVE SPEED TRANSMISSIONS WITH THE 78 MM CLUTCH DRUM, 14 MM SPLINED SHAFT. I LOOKED AT DAX SITE, I HAVE THE SAME TRANS. HE IS OUT OF 10 TOOTH SPROCKETS, I WONDER WHAT SIZE CHAIN THEY USE? HE HAS THE JACK SHAFT SPROCKETS. I WONDER WHEN HE WILL GET MORE SPLINED SPROCKETS? THE CHINA GIRL ENGINES ARE 4:1 RATIO (CRANK GEAR TO CLUTCH DRUM GEAR) WITH THE 10 TOOTH ENGINE SPROCKET DRIVING A 36 TOOTH REAR WHEEL YOU WIND UP WITH A 14.76:1 FINAL RATIO. THE RATIO`S ARE NOW CORRECT, THANKS TO 5-7 RON
 
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5-7HEAVEN

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fred, go for it. Your Honda x50 engine needs the Staton aluminum adaptor to mate with the 78mm clutch/5:1 gearbox. Since this extends the large Honda engine even more, are you gonna center the Honda onto the Staton housing? if so, this would require a longer jackshaft which would protrude further right.

Or are you gonna shift the engine further left so you can use a shorter jackshaft?

Ron, I too am looking for Dax's sprocket for the 5:1 gearbox. I have the Titan drive assembly minus engine and that sprocket. I was figuring on using my 2.2hp Mitsubishi engine with Titan drive on "The Dragon Lady", a twin-engine girlie cruiser.

Today I rode the "Lady" home from work and got caught in the rain AGAIN. Twin friction drives are VERY inefficient whereas the Titan chain drive would work well. I could disengage the front friction drive and limp home on chain drive.

You guys call cruising on rear chain drive normal. I call it limping home, on my wounded twin-engined monster. Happened several times. :)

Ron, you almost got the ratio formula correct. In this case, instead of adding the two gear ratios you divide larger driven sprocket by smaller drive sprocket WHICH ARE ON THE SAME CHAIN. Then you multiply that ratio by the second ratio WHICH IS ON A DIFFERENT CHAIN.

36t/10t = 3.6

10t/10t = 1

5:1 = 5:1

so 3.6 X 1 X 5 = 18:1.

and

4:1 x 3.6 = 14.4.

Hope this helps.



Myron
 
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5-7 THANKS FOR THE REPLY. YOU ARE CORRECT ON THE GEAR RATIO CAL. I HAVE A MITSUBUSI ENG. I THINK ITS 43CC. IT WAS MY FIRST MAB MOTOR THAT I PURCHASED. $202. WITH S/H. TOOK 3 MONTHS TO GET IT FROM VISA MOTORS IN AZ. WILL NEVER BUY FROM HIM AGAIN!! NICE MOTOR, HARD TO FIND NOW. IF WE COULD MOUNT A 36 TOOTH OR WHATEVER SIZE ON THE RITE SIDE (ON A FREE WHEEL HUB !!) BEHIND A COASTER OR CASSETTE WE COULD ELIMINATE THE JACK SHAFT. FOR MONTHS I HAVE BEEN FIGURING WAYS TO BUILD AND KEEP THE PRICE DOWN FOR RESALE. LATER BUDDY, RON .duh.
 

fred081646

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Hi 5-7 I may have come up with a way to get around the Staton adapter. The Titan 50cc is pretty much an exact copy of my Honda 50cc. However the cover on my Honda around the drive shaft and where the clutch will mount is much shallower than the Titan. I think if I can find where to buy the Titan cover I can exchange covers and mount the Titan clutch pack and 5.1 gear box. The Staton clutch and adapter are a little costly for me. Thanks for your help 5-7 I do appreciate it. Fred P.S. Now where to find the cover? I don't know who manufactures the Titan motor or where to buy the parts.
 

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5-7 YOU NO DOUBT HAVE ALLREADY THOUGHT OF THIS. IF YOU MAKE A FRONT WHEEL CHAIN RACK SETUP YOU DO NOT NEED THE JACKSHAFT. JUST MOUNT YOUR SPROCKET ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF FRONT WHEEL. THAT MAYBE WHAT YOU WERE POSTING (THE TOP HAT ON DISK BRAKE ). I HAVE SEVERAL 49CC POCKET BIKE ENGINES THAT WOULD BE GREAT (2 CYCLE). I HAVE BEEN RUNNING THEM ON FRICTION DRIVES AND THEY HAVE EXTRA POWER WITH 1.25" DRIVE ROLLERS. I NEED 1.5" DRIVE ROLLERS. I BELEIVE YOU ARE USING THE 1.5". I SHOULD BE RECEIVING A 49CC POCKET ENGINE WITH THE VARIABLE SPEED BELT TRANSMISSION. IT LOOKS LIKE IT HAS THE 5.1 GEARBOX USED AS THE PTO WITH A SPROCKET. SHOULD HAVE IT SOON. IT WAS SHIPPED MONDAY UPS. BUT I HAVE NOT RECEIVED A TRACKING #. THATS A BIT WORRYSOME!! I PLAN ON RUNNING CHAIN DIRECT TO 36 TOOTH WHEEL SPROCKET, RACK MOUNT. I WILL SEND SOME PICS NEXT, WILL HAVE TO DN SIZE THEM. RON .shft.
 

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5-7HEAVEN

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fred, log onto thatsdax.com They're the one selling the Titan assembly, and may have surplus engine parts.

Ron, I'm glad you and fred are working on this project and sharing ideas with me. I think about this retrofit a LOT because I have the Staton units.

I tried to mount a 49cc pb engine w/1.25" roller up front. It wouldn't start and jammed the recoil. Decided it was too much trouble, expecially since it had different oil/fuel ratio from the Mits engines.

I've thought about front disc brake adaptors to hook up 36t sprockets up front, right side. Then the Mits engine w/5:1 gearbox bolts atop the Staton housing and aligns w/the 36t cog.

Unsure how the 36t would work on the right side w/freewheel on the rear tire.
 
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fred081646

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Hi 5-7 I talked to thatsdax today and he said he does carry some parts but said he didn't think the cover from the Titan would fit the Honda. I spent some time today doing online searches for Honda clones to find a manufacturer who may have a schematic or a parts list. I can find no manufacturer but did find a 50cc clone mounted on a water pump. I called the company and told them I needed some parts for their pump motor and could they help me? They told me they don't carry parts. I said thats ok, then I need the manufacturers name so I can get the parts from them. They told me that was confidential. They didn't know where I could get the parts. Goodbye thanks so much. I then found another company selling just the engine So, here goes Fred calling another co. Hello, I purchased one of your 50cc 4 stroke number#### a while back and need some parts for it. Please hold........... 5 min later. Dumb blonde says I don't think we carry parts. Fred says thats ok just tell me who sells parts for the motor you sold me. I need to ask my supervisor please hold. 5 more min..... Sir, I need your name, address, phone# and email address. I gave her the info and she said they would be in touch with me. Are they running a background check on me? LOL I haven't given up yet. It sure is frustrating though.
 

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I RECEIVED THE MOTOR WITH THE CVT AND THE ELECTRIC START/GENERATOR COMBO TODAY. THE PICS ON POST 17. A SUPER BUY, $85.00 PLUS $14. S/H = TOTAL $99. HE IS HOLDING THE LAST 2 IDENTICAL UNITS FOR ME. I SOLD A ROUGH 85 BRONCO YESTERDAY FOR $450. SO ORDERED THE OTHER UNITS TONITE. dance1 I THINK YOU CAN RUN THE SAME MIX RATIO ON BOTH ENGINES. I HAVE BEEN RUNNING CHAINSAWS ON 40-1 FOR 30 YRS (PREMIUM AND CHEAP OIL) WITH NEVER A PROBLEM. SEVERAL BRANDS OF SAWS. MY MAB WEBSITE "MOTORPOWEREDBICYCLE.COM" RON r.ly.
 
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