Newbe 1st post,,,,,, Motor would not fit inside frame with carb ,So I had to modify the intake. I found a 7/8" refrigeration copper fitting that fit perfectly . So I mounted the carb outside the frame .will the extra 1/2" of pipe hurt performance? or are there some intakes already made for this problem ?............ Added my car pic hence the name .......
modified intake
- Thread starter 73GTO
- Start date
Goat,
You should be good to go if you seal the connection of the copper to the steel intake. I've had good luck with a product called Seal All but any sealer that will stand up to gasoline will work. How do you plan to tighten or clamp the copper to the intake manifold to keep it in place? Maybe cut a couple of slots down the copper fitting and use a worm gear (hose) type clamp or a carburetor clamp like came with your kit. You'll need somethiong to keep the weight of the carb and vibration from loosening that connection.
Tom
You should be good to go if you seal the connection of the copper to the steel intake. I've had good luck with a product called Seal All but any sealer that will stand up to gasoline will work. How do you plan to tighten or clamp the copper to the intake manifold to keep it in place? Maybe cut a couple of slots down the copper fitting and use a worm gear (hose) type clamp or a carburetor clamp like came with your kit. You'll need somethiong to keep the weight of the carb and vibration from loosening that connection.
Tom
Goat Herder
Gutter Rider
Who you talking to to? My permatex has been the shizizizle. Oh I see it now nice Goat
The fitting was so tight i had to sand to fit ,then epoxied . I bought hose clamps but didnt think I needed them .. Next problem when pedaling to start . pop the clutch it somtimes loosen up the chain and it will jump link on spocket and jamb inside clutch cover . Then have to remove to un jamb happened 3 times last night....I think the rear wheel is being pulled toward the motor from the torque
WildAlaskan
New Member
i had mine jamm like that before i dont know what could cause it in this case but carefully using a flat screw driver worked for unjamming it for me and faster than pulling the cover off
WildAlaskan
New Member
think of it like this when you engage the clutch the rear sprocket pulls the chain from the bottom side of the front sprocket the hard pull cause some slack on the top side of the chain and the momentem combines with the engine turning over and engaging throws the top slack chain forward it hits the wall and another link quikly follows behind causing a traffic jamm binding the chain inside
remember when engine is pulling you the top is tight but when you are pedaling the bottom is tight cause the rear wheel is pulling the clutch shaft over just picture in your head the chain system while pedaling then piture it as you realease the clutch then you will have a idea of whats happening
anyway thats just a theory you could try getting upto speed and easing the clutch out slowly five or ten times then get up to speed and drop the clutch out fast to test this theory out if it works fine no jam in the ten or so times eased out and james up in 2 or 3 quik clutch releases then maybe its a sound theory either way it may just be out of tension
oh and do it when its warmed up and fires easy the theory is based on a quik start throwing the slack chain forward if its hard to start then that means the chain has slowed down
hope this helps
remember when engine is pulling you the top is tight but when you are pedaling the bottom is tight cause the rear wheel is pulling the clutch shaft over just picture in your head the chain system while pedaling then piture it as you realease the clutch then you will have a idea of whats happening
anyway thats just a theory you could try getting upto speed and easing the clutch out slowly five or ten times then get up to speed and drop the clutch out fast to test this theory out if it works fine no jam in the ten or so times eased out and james up in 2 or 3 quik clutch releases then maybe its a sound theory either way it may just be out of tension
oh and do it when its warmed up and fires easy the theory is based on a quik start throwing the slack chain forward if its hard to start then that means the chain has slowed down
hope this helps
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WildAlaskan
New Member
you were right about something being pulled towars the motor it aint the wheel though unless you got it loose on one side
Goat Herder
Gutter Rider
If you run a J shaft into the bikes stock gearing that prob will go away for that type set up. The pivot point of the chain will be where it is supposed to be.
Sick Bike Parts LLC - Performance parts for your motorized bicycle Has this sorta thing.
Sick Bike Parts LLC - Performance parts for your motorized bicycle Has this sorta thing.
WildAlaskan
New Member
well that just about answers it i thought i had a sound theory darn but at least you figured it out