modified cdi and cr 80 coil

When I was talking to him in the other forum, he seemed insulted when I told him I would pay a small fee for a schematics copy. He went on and on about how he dedicated his life to this CDI, that he pays his workers excellent wages and that's why it's 80 bucks etc etc. Sounded like a buncha smoke if you ask me, but to each his own.

I'm going to have to buy one just to get a schematic of it, but egads, 80 bucks is a lot of money when you're talking about <15 bucks in components (not counting the coil).
 
i still want this (pending on funds).
i was expecting on rewiring & resoldering since it looks like i want 4 circuits.

1. this coil pack.
2. the nuvinci hub controller.
3.light controller. headlight,brake, & turning. all led.
4. rectifier, regulator,

being the complication of all this i think i will keep a stock coil in the tool sack when things go awry.
 
There you go fellas

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the head looks good i want one then I can the performance out of this cdi that i am looking for plus the extra cooling will be nice for riding on mt bike trails with my bike.
 
CDIboard.jpg


Heres the inside of the cdi, if some one that has one of these will make a wiring diagram and list the parts. $75 for this is intense i wonder what he pays his employes...
 
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There's more info than that - I actually have a parts listing, working on acquiring all of them.



You can't see enough in that one picture alone - yet with a full circuit diagram, parts diagram, and parts listing ~ you can build your own.

As I've been saying - 80 bucks for 15 bucks in components is ridiculous unless it's got golden screws holding it together.
 
DanielMaia said:
There you go fellas

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Click to expand...

You can see how much I hogged out the Pirate Cycle intake in the last photo. Stock the hole is the same size as a Chinese intake. Clamped it onto my drill press and opened it up massivly and radiused the entry and port matched to the block. It has to flow twice a good as stock.

I can't tell you how much power that Puch head adds but it's a bunch. Bike went from about 6:1 compression to around 11.5:1 . Made it harder to get spinning but when it started it wanted to wheelie with my 225 lbs. on it.. mapbike's clutch pads really helped with this build. The stock pads were glazed and just not wanting to spin the motor on startup but the pads solved that problem. One more thing about the head. For some reason carbon was not building up in the combustion chamber at all. I don't know if it's the machineing or silicone in the alloy or what. The combustion chamber was as clean after riding for a month as it was when I bolted it on.

Some have gone on to say that the cooling fins on the side are block from airflow, not true. ANY airflow is good and as long as the bike is moving there is air exchange. Plus I think that having this head even with the compression boost it runs cooler just sitting there.

One last tip: when you go to start back up the bike with the clutch engaged to where you can feel the compression trying to stop the turning. Then ride foreward drop the clutch. That way the motor gets a running start at turning over. If you try to start it up against the compression the back tire just drags but then again I use a fairly slick tire.

Daneil, I think those parts would be best on that motor you rebuild. They would help to unlock all the power your mods made :)
 
I'm going to second the Puch head as one of the first things you should buy for one of these china motors. Their combustion geometry is great, the cooling surface area is easily twice that of the China head, and the compression boost is phenominal. Well worth 30+ shipping, and if you ever decide to go with a puch piston/cylinder, you've already got the head.
 
From what I gather (No personal experience) is that with a bit of luck, sorcery and insanity, the german and chineese components can be made to work together. Foureasy did it, but then again, he's tantamount to a warlock when it comes to monster bike motors.
 
This is the best I've got so far from that pic, though some can possibly be assumed - there's still quite a bit that needs done. Resistors to be labeled, capacitor to be labeled, thermistor to be labeled, and diodes to be confirmed.

cdi_bo10.jpg
 
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