Making it last forever

Well, here it is, your own thread.

Here are my tips-

Proper break-in (ring seating)

Use enough oil, no less than 32:1- these are piston ported, non-injected, loose, sloppy unbalanced engines, they need all the help they can get.

Don't run them too slow or too fast, either is as bad as the other.

DON'T RUN THEM LEAN. If you even think you have a common intake leak, you do. Stop the engine and fix it or die. (the engine)

Don't run the chain too tight unless you like replacing the shaft bearings, chain, sprockets, tensioner, rear wheel, ect.
 
()Over 2000 miles in three months no joke this kit requires much dedication, been through one cdi, broken rear spock, two gas tanks,many things coming loose easy to over look,the list can go on. this is a great site hate to ramble tired. lol. This is why we are here glad to help anytime I can. Far as I can tell airplain check list look it complietly over godbless
 
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fairracing31 said:
Here is my maintenance schedule that I follow (Sometimes :-{)

http://motorbicycling.com/f3/maintenance-schedule-2686.html

P.S. I keep my motor completely stock ;)
Click to expand...

I like to think of my motor as 'refined stock'. I don't do upgrades for performance, more for reliability and to replace known problem parts. Like plugs, wires bolts etc. I'm ordering a K&N style filter, so that maybe a bit of a hop up but I think, better filtration is better for the motor.
 
After seeing Pablos jack shaft kit video, that will be a purchase I'll make this winter. There's a guy at the Evil Empire (other site) putting one on a Point Beach like mine, so I'm waiting for his experiences. After watching the video of him running all over town IN traffic! I knew I wanted one. The motor isn't straining at all. I think that kit, although a bit expensive for me, would be great for the motor.
 
The only thing I really worry about is the bottom falling off. (mine)rotfl after about
ten miles I stop sit somewhere comfy and look at the bike. I have an all in one knife, some zip ties, extra plug, & Wrench and a very small pump & tire patch kit. I have an old army canteen mounted to the bars w/extra fuel. Weighs about a pound. Ta Da! Yeee Haaa!!! (c)
 
I broke my engine in at 16 to 1 for ever. it worked so i just kept doing it.
one gallon of oil 128 oz at 8 oz per gallon of gas 16 gallons of gas 16 x 150 miles approx 2,400 miles. 16 gallons of gas at $4.00 per gallon $64.00
Now at 25 to 1
I use a castor synthetic oil mix. 20 % castor 80 % synthetic (with 2 oz of marvel mystery oil to the gallon to cut the carbon).
I also glued the engine together as well as the carb. to seal air leaks.
I use a home made paper air filter . A N-95 surgical paper mask glued to a holder, with a foam pre filter. I am still on the same air filter LOL. I check it about once a month?
I grease the stuffing out of the clutch . In three places. 1 the ball and pin, 2 under the carb, 3 and the bean sized blob.
Warm it up.
Going down hill pull in the clutch.
Blip the throttle to oil the engine at red lights. I like the noise also.
I go through rims , and chains like crazy .
I was going through brakes .
Until I tried something else a front hub brake.





I have gone through 3 full sized auto style fuel filters as well as about 3 feet of fuel line tubing.
I use catch of the day oil currenly mobil 2t racing with a rebate or a closeout sale because they are discontinuing it in Arizona. approx 2 dollars a quart.
Benol castor $8.00 a pint.
Marvel mystery oil Had it around it is an upper lube for cars.
I still have six quarts of mobil 2t . It was so cheap I would go in and buy it every time I went to checker auto.
 
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Hey Goat Herder, Why did u need to replace the gas tank twice. Before you replace any more tanks ( Im quessing they were leaking) if so there is a simple fix for that. Get a good quality silicone tube like GE or the eqvalent empty the tank and clean the area real good then spread the silicone over the area were you think it's leaking about 1/8 of an inch let it cure two days and that should do it.
 
They leaked at studs eventually. I finally shot a hole can of high heat engine paint on one . That did the trick, sealing it in from the outside didn't paint inside the tank. I will have to try the polyester resin Joe . Any brand suggestion?
 
Hey Joe, I never used the resin you mention and Im sure it works, but the GE silicone I have used it for years. The first time it was 1969 in Laredo, Texas a guy told me about it. As far as your comment on it being only a short time fix, Ive used it extensively for years since on gas tanks of old cars & pickups. The typical leak would be where the straps hold the gas tank up dirt collects and moisture would put many small holes the area where the strap makes contact silicone has never failed and Im one of those guys that keeps a car or truck forever. glenn
 
When we restore old motorcycles we use a product named Kream. Motorcycle shops carry it. One bottle will to about 4-5 MB tanks. Around 20.00 a bottle. Coats it like Pepto Bizmal and drys rock hard. Use muradic acid to clean the tank and rubbing alachol to dry it out. WARNING NEVER breath the fumes from the acid, It WILL Mess your lungs up forever!!!
 
I will have to try the silicone on something experimental...I have only used a "smear" of it before and I didn't work...maybe I did not prep the surface well?

As fro the Kreem- it works O.K. as long as there is something to fill the original holes....but I used it on a Beemer and it leaked like a basket after awhile. it works great to seal against rust, but never had any luck for filling holes that were leaking.

I am not the omnipotent pre-emminent bike restorer, just stating my experiences.
 
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