Magneto air gap on HS 142f?

Fugi93

New Member
I picked up a noise recently that I thought was the clutch bell - except it is still there with the clutch removed and that is as far I got with it today. Sounds like a tinny ringing noise coming from the flywheel area. I want to check the gap and hopefully that is the problem. The sound is more pronounced when it is hot and got a little worse today. Got 400 miles on it and this started up about a 100 miles ago in a come and go fashion. It' there at idle and higher rpm's under load or no load conditions.
 
All the years that I've worked on engines that have a flywheel and a coil next to it I just used a matchbook. I'd have the magnet where the coil is pulled to it. Insert the matchbook, tighten the coil, and take the matchbook out. You can do that and see is the noise was the two rubbing. This was old school. Couldn't afford all the tools I needed, now I have more tools then I need :>)
 
All the years that I've worked on engines that have a flywheel and a coil next to it I just used a matchbook. I'd have the magnet where the coil is pulled to it. Insert the matchbook, tighten the coil, and take the matchbook out. You can do that and see is the noise was the two rubbing. This was old school. Couldn't afford all the tools I needed, now I have more tools then I need :>)

Love than post Alf,
mainly the part about having more tools than you need .....lol
 
I've never measured the thickness for comparison but a standard business card works for me. About the same as Al's match book. I just never have a book of matches handy and a Bic lighter is too thick :)
Tom
 
Ahh, the old matchbook trick. Used to do that a lot on my '63 Ford and '69 Beetle, til I replaced the points with Pertronix modules :D

Average matchbook is about .016". The magneto air gap on a HS likes to be between .016 and .020"
 
I've never measured the thickness for comparison but a standard business card works for me. About the same as Al's match book. I just never have a book of matches handy and a Bic lighter is too thick :)
Tom

Back...way back, matchbooks were much easier to come across then finding anyone with a business card. Damn here I go dating myself. Also back then, it was a Zippo, no Bic.

Love than post Alf,
mainly the part about having more tools than you need .....lol
When any of my friends is in need of a tool that they don't have, guess who they call first? I have wrenches I bought @ 15, to think that was 50 years ago. Think I could classify them as antiques?
 
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I always use a piece of plastic cut out of a 2 liter soda bottle. Used the same way as described above.
 
Average matchbook is about .016". The magneto air gap on a HS likes to be between .016 and .020"

Is this do to a clearance issue or a timing issue? To show my ingnorace on small engines, is there anything mounted on the back side of the flywheel that could make noise if the magneto clearance is ok?
 
Is this do to a clearance issue or a timing issue? To show my ingnorace on small engines, is there anything mounted on the back side of the flywheel that could make noise if the magneto clearance is ok?

Just a clearance issue. The timing is pre set when building the engine with a woodruff key in the crankshaft and keeping the flywheel in place.
The ole 4 cycle had points (moving part)/condenser (not used today), and had a cover over the points and condenser. This was held on by two to three screws. Although I've never seen one come loose, it's entirely possible, thus creating a noise. Something like this but the flywheel and cover is removed.
 

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Just a clearance issue. The timing is pre set when building the engine with a woodruff key in the crankshaft and keeping the flywheel in place.
The ole 4 cycle had points (moving part)/condenser (not used today), and had a cover over the points and condenser. This was held on by two to three screws. Although I've never seen one come loose, it's entirely possible, thus creating a noise. Something like this but the flywheel and cover is removed.

I just checked the gap and it is a tight 018. Right now I got the clutch out of it and started it and took the cover off again. Still there. Must be something on the inside of the engine transmitting a vibration to it somehow or maybe it is from the engine itself. Hard to pinpoint the exact location. All of a sudden it seems that buying another set of batteries for the electric motor I had on it isn't so high priced after all. If it gets too much louder the kids will start running to the street thinking the ice cream lady is coming!
 
Have you checked the valves for excessive lash?
Something going odd with the pull start, the little pawl bars in the mechanism hitting the cup attached to the flywheel?
 
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Have you checked the valves for excessive lash?
Something going odd with the pull start, the little pawl bars in the mechanism hitting the cup attached to the flywheel?

I got them set at a tight .004 on intake and a loose .004 exhaust. Put it all back together to go for lunch and promptly got a flat tire. Then by the time I got home the gas company decided to change my meter this morning and had the gas shut off and locked. Anyway, I threw the thing in the back of my old trusty van and that is where it's going to stay for awhile until my luck changes. In the meantime I'll look for someone who has a gear puller to get the flywheel off and start turning wrenches I guess. I kind of like the idea of knowing whether the bottom end is kosher or not anyways.
 
Check to see if you paid your bill, I've never seen them remove a meter without installing one at the same time. If you are up to date I'd crawl on some azz.
 
Check to see if you paid your bill, I've never seen them remove a meter without installing one at the same time. If you are up to date I'd crawl on some azz.

They did replace it, and they just locked it out because nobody was home. Just their safety policy to make sure everything works properly - or so they say. I know they red tag a lot of stuff once they get inside peoples homes too, and you won't have gas until it's fixed either.
 
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