Machined Aluminum Spring-Loaded Chain-Tensioner

Hi,Happycheapskate.I doubt that the spring would ever break as it's not being streched to it's breaking point in the action!
The chain would be more likely to jump the sprocket if you wasn't running a tensioner at all or using the supplied tensioner.
If you had no tensioner the whipping action of the chain could jump the chain.
If you had the supplied tensioner the tugging action of the chain could pull the tensioner towards the spokes making the chain jump the sprocket!Or Worse!
That chain is a KMC KOOL chain it's a Heavy duty BMX or Freestyle chain.
Model #K710 112L 1/2"x1/8".I like it because the outside edge is smoother than regular chains,which causes less vibrations as it passes over the Supplied tensioner Wheel.Kip.
[email protected]
 
Hi,All.Here's some pics of the finished product.
It will come with stainless steel mounting hardware,and Pirate Cycle's should have 25 of them in stock by the end of next week!ThankYou for your input and interest!Kip.
[email protected]
 

Attachments

  • 11-17-10-Machined-Aluminum-Chain-Tensioner 017.JPG
    11-17-10-Machined-Aluminum-Chain-Tensioner 017.JPG
    186.8 KB · Views: 269
  • 11-17-10-Machined-Aluminum-Chain-Tensioner 014.JPG
    11-17-10-Machined-Aluminum-Chain-Tensioner 014.JPG
    157.1 KB · Views: 264
  • 11-17-10-Machined-Aluminum-Chain-Tensioner 001.JPG
    11-17-10-Machined-Aluminum-Chain-Tensioner 001.JPG
    160.9 KB · Views: 247

Attachments

  • 11-17-10-Machined-Aluminum-Chain-Tensioner 019.JPG
    11-17-10-Machined-Aluminum-Chain-Tensioner 019.JPG
    232 KB · Views: 229
  • 11-17-10-Machined-Aluminum-Chain-Tensioner 020.JPG
    11-17-10-Machined-Aluminum-Chain-Tensioner 020.JPG
    219.3 KB · Views: 247
  • 11-17-10-Machined-Aluminum-Chain-Tensioner 021.JPG
    11-17-10-Machined-Aluminum-Chain-Tensioner 021.JPG
    191.6 KB · Views: 237
Looks good, only problem is that it pushes the clutch case out a good amount causing pedal clearance issues. My pedal barely clears as it is.
 
A 1/4" is not that bad....the pics make it look worse. I was just looking at my crank arm and i think i have a 1/4 to spare, Im back in!
 
ooooh thats shiny!!!!
how is the pedal clearance with it installed though? did you have to go with the wide pedal cranks for clearance reasons? i know mine is already a tight fit with stock crank and cover in place....that extra few centimeters is all it would take for issues with clearance......other than that it looks wonderful and very ingenious.. also iffen you was to put a sprocket in instead of the wheel could you test fit it on a Regina 415 chain and let me know how well the sprocket works with that particular brand? i know on my motor sprocket i had to shave the front of all the teeth just to get it to wrap around without binding up.....anyways........I CAN HAZ ONE SOON??
 
Hi,Elixys.It move's the cover out 1/4".You can use your stock wheel or Pirate Cycle's is offering a 10 tooth machined aluminum sprocket that is pressed onto a precision bearing that will fit any chain you run.Kip.
triker@metrocast
 
I think KH said they supplied a longer bucking bar,somewhere in these post,,,i havent got a cover off to look at ,but if it is even thickness to where it is touching the motor around the sproket ,it could be thinned w/an emory cloth sheet and piece of glass like we plane the head level,
 
Yea there's a new bar too, Post#69, 3rd pic :) It's exactly longer than what the whole unit widens the cover... that was suggested early on as well.

So if you start grinding... eep.
 
are the balls that go in first 5/16 ?,,,if so could you add another ball and do a slight polish on the bucking bar??,
 
Hey,corgi1.I didn't even think about machining the cover to bring it back in that 1/4".
I just checked and Unless I'm missing something it looks like you can!
It measures .258 from the edge to the clutch shaft casting.I'd have to think about it some more but it looks doable.
I wouldn't grind it down though. You do need to maintain the same measurement across the mounting surface.Kip.
triker@metrocast
 
I used a belt sander to shave down the magneto cover, worked fine and gave an even finish. So.....can the clutch arm cover be shaved down without running into problems?
 
Hi,Miked.It sure looks like you can.
A belt sander will do the trick.Just get hotter than BEJESUS.Just have a dunking tank handy.
If you did you would obviously have to use your supplied mounting hardware or get shorter stainless steel socket head cap screws,
You would also have to use your supplied clutch rod,or pusher bar,or bucking bar,or whatever you want to call the 8mm chunk of round rod that works the clutch!
I'm gonna try this today so if you want to save your's and watch me ruin mine that's cool.Kip.
[email protected]
 
Sorry,hurricane.If you meant using a belt sander as grinding as the same thing.
All I'm saying is however it's done you have to maintain the same measurement across the mounting surface or the clutch cam might not engage the clutch bar properly.
I think of "grinding" something down as using a hand held grinder,with a hard wheel.Kip.
[email protected]
 
Back
Top