Lever Actuated Coaster Brake?

Well, a coaster brake can be converted to work by hand...or you could just get a drum brake which is designed to work that way to begin with.
 
Yes but it isn't much of a challenge to bolt on something that was made to work. It's much more fun to make something work that isn't designed that way. RETRO design as it were.
 
It would be cheaper- but consider this- look at the muscles that actuate a coaster brake- calf, thigh, glutious- now look at the muscles that squeeze a hand brake- forearm- think about it.
 
you may well have a point part of the original was questioning was how much leverage and how much pull would be required. I'm thinking that once you lock it back, the pressure might not be too much to make it work. I would just have to try it and the only coaster wheels I have are 20" not much way to test those on a full size bike since the pedals would drag the ground and stop it.
 
for those interested, the answer is yes!

bikebuilder over at rat rod bikes provides a photo-illustrated answer to how he made it work with a hand lever on the front wheel, so those with the skills and inclination can recycle those coaster hubs into inexpensive front brakes!

with permission from the author, of course, this would be good to sticky in the DIY section, wouldn't it?
 
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I wonder about moving the bike in reverse? On my Schwinn as I move the bike backwards it rotates the pedals till they meet the center stand and the bike stops. If the sprocket is the lever in place of the sprocket then it would not move in reverse it would lock up. What do you think. Have fun, Dave
 
You also have to consider if your fork can accept the additional width of a coaster brake hub...
 
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Large Filipino said:
Mount the coaster to the forks. Get a bike chain,wrap it around the sprocket to a free sprocket welded to your handlebar. Alignment is critical so you need to strengthen your gooseneck so your handlebar won't loosen left or right. Weld a (you all seen this before) "safety lever" used in old school ten speeds with the curled handlebars that connect to your brakes so you can activate it from the top of the handlebar. Weld it to the free sprocket so it sits above your handlebar. To activate,push it down.
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The chain from the sprocket up to the handlebars idea is no good. The weight of the chain and all the whipping around it would do while riding would require a really heavy spring pressure to keep it taught, and that would create a lot of tension on the brake handle which has no way to support the weight of the chain pulling on it.

Who knows, I suppose the point is if it can work, more than if it will work well.
 
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