Leaky Carb , HELP!!

Sexypena

New Member
I have a problem with my carb I think it is leaking from the "tickle button" is that normal? (Blue liquid) I will post a second picture

Also I think I have an air leak too next to the brass lock,. right side of the screw. (I posted a picture) right in the center of the photo
 

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The skull shaped carb part is a tight fit for the bike and it's hitting my bike frame I don't know of that's a problem ,. Also it leaks more fuel I cleaned it up right before I took the picture
 

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I'm not sure if the tight squeeze of the carb is contributing to the leak but here's another photo
 

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OK, what's the reddish gunk between your intake and the carb? Were you trying to seal it? It LOOKS like you haven't completely seated the carb on the intake. The end of your intake pipe should appear in that void you point out in your first pic (the hole to the right of the screw). That'd be considered a HUGE air-leak. You should head to your nearest hardware-store and buy a black nitrile rubber o-ring to fit the carb-sleeve; I'm pretty sure it's a standard size...like a kitchen-sink faucet gasket. As for the leak (blue-liquid=gas+oil, right?), unless you have the same blue liquid coming out of your filter (the black skull's teeth), you should be OK. It may indicate a float-level problem at any rate. Look up instructions on correcting that using this site's search function. Look up "nt carb float adjustment". I think if you seat that carb on the intake properly, the "skull" won't give you clearance issues. If it still does, you can saw some of the teeth off, or consider buying an offset intake.
 
The redish gunk is a little but of grease ,because when I was trying to connect the carb with the intake it wouldn't go in any further than how it is in the photos so I put some grease to see if it would slide in a bit more .

As for the blue liquid (gas+oil) no it's not coming out of the "skulls teeth" its coming out of the "tickle button"
 
Well, you'll need to remove the carb, clean off that grease with solvent (as it will allow the carb to loosen under vibration), an have a good look to see why the carb isn't seating properly on the intake. If you need to lube it or use excessive force; there is something wrong. Has your motor even been running?
 
One way to test for an intake leak is to spray some WD around where it might be leaking whilst the engine is idleing, if the revs change, you have a leak.
 
Fuel leaking out of the tickler button indicates that the float cannot properly meter the fuel level inside the float bowl. It could need a cleaning or an adjustment, or both.
Easy to do.
If the engine mounting position has the carb sitting at an angle, leaning towards the engine, you will not get any fuel leaking out of the "skull's teeth" as the excess fuel will instead be running down the intake manifold and filling up the engine.
 
My guess would be a clogged float needle valve from dirt in the fuel. This is the most common cause of a leak like you describe. The fuel tanks are notorious for containing dirt and rust particles that can block the float needle valve from closing properly.

A good tank cleaning and an in-line fuel filter will keep this from happening.
It is rare for the float level to be off so far as to cause flooding unless the carburetor has been disassembled and the float tangs bent.

The other cause could be a defective float. A float that has a crack and is full of fuel will not 'float' and shut off the fuel flow as it is designed to do. If the float shows signs of having fuel in it, throw it away and order a new one. Repairs usually don't work and and glue or sealant applied will impact the float's designed buoyancy.

Tom
 
Gentlemen thanks for the advise I will definitely fix it this weekend because right now I'm tooo busy with sports and school!

I also bought a hose clamp because it is also kinda leaking through the gas line; I will try to put an o-ring on the intake-carb I think that should fix my air leak from the little hole as you can see in the pictures I posted
.shft.
 
Just keep holding a good amount of pressure against the carburetor, holding it tight up against the o-ring while you tighten the retaining clamp.
You can also use Seal-All along with the o-ring to ensure a positive seal.
Good luck!
 
So I Finally got to fixing the carb I took it apart I cleaned it I put two o-rings one where the intake and carb meet and another where the throttle cable is. I also changed out that cheap spark plug for a NGK b6hs plug and put two hose clamps on the fuel line
 
So, how did these repairs work for you? Did you stop your leak?

There is no need to seal the throttle cable area. It is a myth that air can be drawn in around the cable or at the cable adjuster. What little air that could leak past the throttle barrel, or slide, as it is sometimes called will in no way compromise the air/fuel mix. Only an opening downstream of the barrel, in the intake manifold side of the carburetor will cause the problems associated with excess air entering the engine. That or a leak at the manifold where it attaches to the cylinder.

Tom
 
So, how did these repairs work for you? Did you stop your leak?

There is no need to seal the throttle cable area. It is a myth that air can be drawn in around the cable or at the cable adjuster. What little air that could leak past the throttle barrel, or slide, as it is sometimes called will in no way compromise the air/fuel mix. Only an opening downstream of the barrel, in the intake manifold side of the carburetor will cause the problems associated with excess air entering the engine. That or a leak at the manifold where it attaches to the cylinder.

Tom

Tom sorry for the late reply ! But the hose clamps was all it needed to stop the leaks now I'm having problems with that Devil clutch if you wana check put my new thread
 
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