Large clutch gear frozen, any ideas how to remove?

J

jmc25fl

New Member
I had a problem last week with a clutch imploding. Everyone here on the forum helped me obtain the correct parts, and I started the repair. For some odd reason the clutch is so firmly attached ( spot welded? :-) ) that I stripped my puller tool.I can't imagine that these clutches are so firmly attached that they could not come off with the amount of pressure I was using. Should I have used some heat to get it off, I am at a loss on what to do now. bairdco in this forum was kind enough to actually send me a puller and clutch assembly so I could get back on the road ( THANKS!! ) , Now I have the parts but a new puller isn't going to solve the problem. HELP !

Also I have obtained a parts motor from DAX, it had everything minus the head. I thought that I could just pull the head off my other motor use the secondary motor I have, but the piston is hitting the head. Are there different crank lengths? I would like to get motoring again but really need some help.

Thanks
 
Had a long answer typed out and lost it #$&@&

Marine penetrating release and tack weld your puller to the broken clutch part!
No the clutches are not welded on.

Yes there are different rod lengths and piston pin locations.
 
If you're replacing the clutch-gear, I suggest you invest in a Dremel; cut at the woodruff slot and split/spread the hub with a big flathead or chisel. Although I havn't needed to, I belive that you can drive the clutch shaft out of the gear and bearing after you split the case (obviously removing the drive sprocket instead). Blast it out with some hammer-blows and a large enough bolt or rod to drive it through. This'll save you from destroying the clutch gear via cutting.
 
The clutch gear's already destroyed, hence the need to remove it.

I pm'd a few ideas, but you could try just cutting it off with a dremel.
 
Ok well this will be my dumb ass moment for the month. The reason I have not been able to remove the clutch plate like I have been trying to do is because I had the puller on backwards. yes I used the small threads not thinking of how the screwy thing worked, and of course stripped out each one. So tomorrow I am using a auto flywheel puller on it, I will tack weld 3 grade 8 nuts on the plate, then use the puller to press on the shaft to finally pull the clutch apart. Thank you everyone for your help and comments.
 
Kioshk said:
If you're replacing the clutch-gear, I suggest you invest in a Dremel; cut at the woodruff slot and split/spread the hub with a big flathead or chisel. Although I havn't needed to, I belive that you can drive the clutch shaft out of the gear and bearing after you split the case (obviously removing the drive sprocket instead). Blast it out with some hammer-blows and a large enough bolt or rod to drive it through. This'll save you from destroying the clutch gear via cutting.
Click to expand...

You can't split the case without taking the clutch gear off. there's three bolts behind it holding the thing together.
 
You can however remove the clutch shaft with gear attached. When I did mine, I removed the drive sprocket and key, then gently but firmly drove the whole thing out from the left side. Put the nut back on the sprocket side a few turns to avoid mucking up the threads. I didn't have to do that on mine since that was the side I stripped. :)
The clutch side bearing will come out with the shaft and gear, the bearings are really the only things keeping it (the shaft) in place anyway. Then I put the whole assembly in a vice, shaft hanging down, put the nut on that side and a couple reasonable hits with a hammer and block of wood broke the taper loose.
 
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