It came today....

maintenancenazi

maintenancenazi

New Member
And where do I begin!? I'll start this on a positive note, it arrived with no damage. Ok now the rest, I can totally see why the vets on this forum tell you to always inspect a new HT engine. because I have never, and I mean NEVER seen such a lack of quality control on a product like I have just observed so far.

The first item of note was the chain tensioner wheel, seems to wobble on the shaft, the bolt appears reasonably true ( could be the bearing? ) The hand grips seen to be coming apart at the ends, the plastic chrome pieces are loose. And the way it was packaged was horrid, the engine was not secured in ANY way, it was just rolling around loose inside it's box!

But the biggest surprise in store for me was the engine itself. I did a very brief preliminary inspection. Again, you guy's were not kidding about those POS acorn nuts. On the intake, when I went to take it off, I noticed they seemed to be stripped already. A combination of the studs being to long, and the acorn nuts not deep enough!!

But my last surprise was when I got the intake off and peered inside. Of course there was plenty of rough, unfinished casting flash to behold. It was when I reached with my pinky finger inside to feel the roughness, out the other end a piece of aluminum fell merrily out! This was a 2mm x 5mm piece! I have no doubt this could and would have been an issue, if I had chosen NOT to check this.

So please, for your sanity. and you're engines sake. Heed all the great advice and wisdom this forum has to offer, and do a FULL teardown and inspection of you're little china girl. You can bet I am going to take here down to the case, and inspect every square mm of mine!!

Peace, James :)
 
It's always exciting when that box arrives!!!

I tore mine down right away too, thanks to the popular advice here.

It didn't have any major problems, but I bought the head bolts and complete set of replacement studs and nuts from SBP. It's worth the money!!! I also bought the front mounting adapter while I was at it.

Good people, and good products!

Have fun with it.
 
Thanks Cowboy, I am! Got a little more into it today. After removing the head and cylinder there was much more metal and garbage to be found. Almost looks like they assembled that engine in a machine shop, on top of a pile of shavings!

Oh well, that's just fine by me I have always enjoyed tinkering and fixing things. It kind of seems to transcend the physical world, and nothing else exists, when I am working on something. A very good stress reliever to be sure.
 
Last edited:
One thing i found on the engines i got was a big casting ridge in the exhaust and intake ports in the cylinder. stick your finger in the ports there is most likly a ridge at the piston side of the portrs. its best to take a file or dremel and remove it . it will help make the motor breath easier.
 
^^^ I can attest to this! Right before I pulled the cylinder jug off I was checking the smoothness ( In this case lack thereof ) of the intake/exhaust ports, and noted what your mentioning here. That's ok, just more quality time with my new HT!
 
and one more thing to check.. it would also be a good idea to get a tap for the head studs and make sure they are tapped to full depth.Then use a good high streaght lock-tight and let it cure over night before attempting to torque the head down.
Ive had two motors that i did not do this to and upon torquing the head down it pulled the threads out of the block. it took till the second motor before i found that the problem was the studs were not tapped deep enough.
check once and less headache later..
You might be aware of this but i thought id mention this since i does seem to be a big problem with quality control.
I hope it all works out well for you, good luck
 
This message is for Richirich; I hope that the ridges in the engine ports that you are removing, are not the ones that are there to protect the piston rings from breakage???
 
Im not sure what ridges your talking about, the ridges i removed are the casting ridges that are on the piston side of the intake and exhaust ports. if you stick your finger inside and down the port the ridges are to the sides blocking 1-2 mm worth of area.
Generally resticting the openings.
What ridges are you talking about that keep the rings from breaking?
 
Hello Rich, thanks for the tips! I can use any and all of them right now! My studs and threads seem in good shape. Thanks for the lock-tight info as well, I plan on using it on every fastener anyway.
Peace, James
 
Absolutely GREAT, MN !

You are doing the right thing!

Your chances of a long-lived china girl are growing exponentially. lol

My mab was a run-in basket case I bought from a college kid. It's well run in.
I DO have a NIB kit, that I rob parts off, and every time I take something off, I find another problem with it! and I paid big bucks 4 it. Go figger !

rc
 
^^ Thanks Rusty, Yea hopefully it will give a halfway decent service life. I can see now that If you just bolt the thing on, as it comes out of the box. Well, your odds are certainly NOT in your favor! :-||
 
Last edited:
This post is for richirich: In the intake and exports of some ringed engines, there are verticle, let me call them bars, and they can vary in width, are there to prevent ring breakage. If these were not there, it is possible that the rings could catch at these openings and break! Again, I hope it is not these that you are removing; you want to be very careful what you are doing!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top