is there an internally geared hub out there with the input either on the left or both sides?

[techicaldaydreams]

It will be the best use of time and money to tune your stock carburator and run single speed with a big sprocket, like 40-48 big, not 56 tooth. Get a tachometer and do some plug chops when it bogs down. Stock jetting is typically rich, but only the spark plug visuals will tell.

There is actually a conversation you can do to get old sturmey archer hubs to run as two speed fixed gears. One requires a milling machine, and the other fussy dremel work on case hardened steel, but it reduce the material cost of the hub to 40-70 USD.

Picture of machined parts:

And I cannot find any pictures from the Fairbrother method, but as described it would lock up the hub and prevent it from freewheeling in first and second. But third obviously cant be used as pieces essential to it are either removed or modified and put in a different place.

Again, time and money are better spent on riding the bike as a single speed with a tuned carburator.

 

[Gordy]

It will be the best use of time and money to tune your stock carburator and run single speed with a big sprocket, like 40-48 big, not 56 tooth. Get a tachometer and do some plug chops when it bogs down. Stock jetting is typically rich, but only the spark plug visuals will tell.

There is actually a conversation you can do to get old sturmey archer hubs to run as two speed fixed gears. One requires a milling machine, and the other fussy dremel work on case hardened steel, but it reduce the material cost of the hub to 40-70 USD.

Picture of machined parts:
View attachment 116320
And I cannot find any pictures from the Fairbrother method, but as described it would lock up the hub and prevent it from freewheeling in first and second. But third obviously cant be used as pieces essential to it are either removed or modified and put in a different place.

Again, time and money are better spent on riding the bike as a single speed with a tuned carburator.

Do you recall which gears and ratios are retained with this conversion? Thanks!

 

[techicaldaydreams]

First and second of the hub. So 3:4 and 1:1 assuming the sprocket is driven instead of the shell. If the shell is driven the ratios will be 1:1 and 4:3.

 

[Gordy]

First and second of the hub. So 3:4 and 1:1 assuming the sprocket is driven instead of the shell. If the shell is driven the ratios will be 1:1 and 4:3.

Thank you!

 

[Gordy]

the fancy expensive s3x you said is around 300-400 dollars? Now I could be wrong but i think i found it on ebay for $13 is this the wrong one? is it lies and probably fake? im unsure with this conflicting information.

also thanks for the recomendation on the shifter and deraileur, they dont seem too expensive, i might go for them.
View attachment 116277

I have seen that particular listing. Iirc it's just the sprocket for $13

 

[Gordy]

Anyways, back on topic. Apologies @LittleTimmy52 for getting off topic again. Converting the 3 speed to a 2 speed and driving it on the left side would have to be done with a 3 speed hub with threads on the originally left side so you could thread on a free wheel in order to retain ped function. Just keep in mind you woll want a right hand thread on the left side which isn't very common.

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

It will be the best use of time and money to tune your stock carburator and run single speed with a big sprocket, like 40-48 big, not 56 tooth. Get a tachometer and do some plug chops when it bogs down. Stock jetting is typically rich, but only the spark plug visuals will tell.

There is actually a conversation you can do to get old sturmey archer hubs to run as two speed fixed gears. One requires a milling machine, and the other fussy dremel work on case hardened steel, but it reduce the material cost of the hub to 40-70 USD.

Picture of machined parts:
View attachment 116320
And I cannot find any pictures from the Fairbrother method, but as described it would lock up the hub and prevent it from freewheeling in first and second. But third obviously cant be used as pieces essential to it are either removed or modified and put in a different place.

Again, time and money are better spent on riding the bike as a single speed with a tuned carburator.

There's a thread on this forum by Cannonball who did what you're talking about the picture I posted is his bike. The SA S3X would allow you to have a 3-speed transmission instead of a 2-speed. Otherwise one will have to bring power to the right side input to have an output on the left side. The late KC Vale and a few others did builds combining a shift kit running to a rear-wheel IGH. KC had his own forum, and one of the members used an 8-speed IGH on his rear wheel.

So, for someone desiring to build a shifter using a cruiser frame, I'd recommend the simplest build. A shift kit rear wheel 3 or 5-speed IGH.

 

[Gordy]

There's a thread on this forum by Cannonball who did what you're talking about the picture I posted is his bike.

View attachment 116324

I thought that cannonball made his woth an S3X so he had all 3 speeds. But it's the same concept. That would basically give a low and high gear.

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

I thought that cannonball made his woth an S3X so he had all 3 speeds. But it's the same concept. That would basically give a low and high gear.

If I remember the story correctly he changed a 3 speed into a 2 speed fixed gear hub. However you can look the thread up on this forum and read it.

 

[Gordy]

If I remember the story correctly he changed a 3 speed into a 2 speed fixed gear hub.

Oh okay. I'll have to go back and re read it.

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

Timmy if you decide to use a IGH as a rear wheel transmission here's a decent 2 stroke jackshaft kit. If you have a lower-priced engine, gear it more towards the low side. If you have one of the higher-priced engines, gear it more towards the high side.

RIGHT SIDE > MULTI-SPEED seat post jackshaft kit.

In Stock now! 15 kits left in stock then no more till next year. NOTE: BIG PLUS! The rear bike wheel need not be removed to fit this multi-speed jackshaft drive as would be required with single speed left side drive. NOTE: Fits 32mm aluminum seat post, with shims, will also fit down to...

www.grubee.net

 

[techicaldaydreams]

That jackshaft design is really smart. It uses an adjustable eccentric mount for the bearing to solve chain tension issues.

The best value rear shifter is an altus rear derailleur and a 11-34 cassette. Shimano 8 speed, 7 speed and 6 speed are all cross compatible in any way you like.

Again, a set of jets, a tachometer and running it single speed is the absolute best use of time and money.

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

That jackshaft design is really smart. It uses an adjustable eccentric mount for the bearing to solve chain tension issues.

The best value rear shifter is an altus rear derailleur and a 11-34 cassette. Shimano and Sram 8-speed, 7-speed, and 6-speed are all cross-compatible in any way you like.

Again, a set of jets, a tachometer and running it single speed is the absolute best use of time and money.

Beg to differ with you on the derailleur. The Shimano Altus has lots of plastic parts. The drawback tension pressure on the jockey pulley arm isn't very strong either. I've been down this road.

For a motorized bicycle, the best rear derailleur is a Sram X4. It is all metal and has very strong drawback tension pressure on the jockey pulley arm. You also don't have to put a large cable loop at the connection point. This reduces the chances of snags.

The Shimano shifters aren't compatible with the Sram derailleurs and vice versa. Sram shifters have a 1:1 actuation whereas Shimano has a 2:1 actuation. Both Sram and Shimano cassette/freewheel/chainring are compatible with each other's derailleurs and shifters.

I don't like 11t cogs for the following reasons:

They don't have enough teeth in contact with the chain making them prone to breaking and bending under engine torque. It also creates a small circumference for the chain to wrap around. As for the best speed freewheel or cassette, I can show Timmy how to build a 4-speed, thus reducing the lateral movement on the chain and making bigger jumps between the gears. This will reduce chain/sprocket wear.

What's much simpler and cheaper is running the shift kit to a rear 3 or 5-speed IGH. I most certainly agree he should have a tachometer to shift by. I use a Tamron tachometer.

 

[techicaldaydreams]

Apologies, I will edit my previous post regarding SRAM compatibility. I have only ever played with Sachs derailleurs that were rebadged after the merger. The Altus shifts very well and can handle relatively large cogs on top of being less than 20 dollars new. The only non steel parts are the P knuckle and the B knuckle.

Shimano Altus (M310 S) derailleur

Disraeli Gears - a derailleur collection. ...

www.disraeligears.co.uk

I have run the altus on 7 speed 14-34 freewheels very well. So this will work just fine. https://www.rivbike.com/products/cassettes-7?variant=40803235233903

Assuming the same sprocket sizes as the SBP kit for the grubee shifter kit. A 13-34 cassette would give a range equivalent to a standard set up with 33 tooth sprocket in high, and a 87 tooth sprocket in the low.

Again, the best use of time and money is to use a big sprocket and tune the carb.

 

[Venice Motor Bikes]

Years ago I thought about building a SBP shifter bike with a Sturmey S3X hub.

I thought that would solve the two big problems with the SBP kit... it would make starting a difficult engine a lot easier & it would also give 'engine braking' when slowing down.

It's one of those things that 'in theory' should work really well together, but I never got around to trying it.

Here's a link to one on ebay... NOS Sturmey-Archer S3X 3 Speed Fixed Gear HUB 36h Track Bicycle Fixie RoadBike | eBay
A lot of the time, cheap listings like are simply new returns that go to a warehouse & sit for years (un re-sold).... So the warehouse owner is willing to take pennies on the dollar just to finally get rid of it!! I wouldn't hesitate to buy it!! (just use PayPal)

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

The stock Shimano Turney that came on the Schwinn Sidewinder failed spectacularly, prompting my search for a reliable replacement rear derailleur. I first tried the Shimano Altus, which performed adequately on flat terrain. However, as a larger person living in the mountains, I found that running a 7-speed 34-13 freewheel resulted in chain slippage in my lowest gears due to insufficient draw-back tension in the jockey pulley cage.

After taking advice from a forum member, I looked into the SRAM X5 rear derailleur and conducted thorough research on it. In my investigation, I also discovered the X4 model and noted the differences. The X4 is constructed entirely from cast aluminum, while the X5 incorporates some plastic components. As a result, the X4 is heavier and more budget-friendly.

In the motorized bicycle realm, a few grams don't matter as much; durability under engine torque is the priority. I've successfully used the X4 for three years without any issues, while I’ve passed the Altus on to my nephew for his pedal-only bicycle. It’s clear that the X4 is the stronger choice for my needs.

 

[Gordy]

Years ago I thought about building a SBP shifter bike with a Sturmey S3X hub.

I thought that would solve the two big problems with the SBP kit... it would make starting a difficult engine a lot easier & it would also give 'engine braking' when slowing down.

It's one of those things that 'in theory' should work really well together, but I never got around to trying it.

Here's a link to one on ebay... NOS Sturmey-Archer S3X 3 Speed Fixed Gear HUB 36h Track Bicycle Fixie RoadBike | eBay
A lot of the time, cheap listings like are simply new returns that go to a warehouse & sit for years (un re-sold).... So the warehouse owner is willing to take pennies on the dollar just to finally get rid of it!! I wouldn't hesitate to buy it!! (just use PayPal)

I have seen that listing several times. It is not the hub. If you go on the "color" drop down menu you can choose between what options they have in stock. Only the cogs are available. You are only getting the cog.

 

[Venice Motor Bikes]

I have seen that listing several times. It is not the hub. If you go on the "color" drop down menu you can choose between what options they have in stock. Only the cogs are available. You are only getting the cog.

OK... how about this one... https://www.ebay.com/itm/3877145976...uid=5ltfckvaRVa&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[Gordy]

OK... how about this one... https://www.ebay.com/itm/3877145976...uid=5ltfckvaRVa&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Now that's a good price on that. And that is definitely the real deal. The last one around that price didn't last long. I was gonna pick it up, but the next day ot was gone.