intake port and intake tube

Z00mz00m

Z00mz00m

New Member
will this work???
ok if i take off the intake tube from the port and remove the stock gasket..and put ultra grey gasket maker on it, will it improve preformance? i was told it might help..just double checking with people who know what im talking about, i was told the stock gasket covers some of the port??

.shft.
 
Z00mz00m said:
will this work???
ok if i take off the intake tube from the port and remove the stock gasket..and put ultra grey gasket maker on it, will it improve preformance? i was told it might help..just double checking with people who know what im talking about, i was told the stock gasket covers some of the port??

.shft.
Click to expand...

Nah just cut the portion off that covers the port.
 
Mark the stock gasket and trim it, then smear a thin coat of the sealer on both sides and re-install.
 
i completely removed the gasket..put a gas &oil resistant gasket maker on it,,,.it seems to help a lilttle bit on starting but not much more power...i did a post on my muffler witch help very much
 
a couple days after you put it on with silicone, you can take it off and see clearly where either needs to be match ported.
 
squeeze two pieces of steel together with silicone on it and see where it goes? these surfaces are ment to be used with a GASKET that silicone or gasket maker is doing the same thing as a std gasket does impede flow.
 
The only impeded flow I have ,is when
I passed 50 years old and nature calls . If you read the directions on the RTV sealer and follow them you will not impede the flow enough to make a differance unless you are in to racing . Excess use of this product isn't a good thing . When you tighten the bolts you have already let the small bead of sealer set for 1 hour to harden. That is how you avoid the oooze factor . As I said before read the directions .
 
leftywoody said:
The only impeded flow I have ,is when
I passed 50 years old and nature calls . If you read the directions on the RTV sealer and follow them you will not impede the flow enough to make a differance unless you are in to racing . Excess use of this product isn't a good thing . When you tighten the bolts you have already let the small bead of sealer set for 1 hour to harden. That is how you avoid the oooze factor . As I said before read the directions .[/QUOT



i use a gasket
Click to expand...
 
i put the gasket maker on with no gasket but would this maybe have a leak without the gasket? as it seems to have less power than before.....i will trim the stock gasket and use a little gasketmaker and try that but i used
permatex form a gasket sealant it is in a blue package and resists: gas,oil,kerosene, glycol, grease, propane, and butane....
 
I used permatex ultra grey and no gasket and had great results but I read the directions and let the continuous 1/16 inch bead around the bolt holes and the intake holes set for 1 hour only finger tight then finished tightening them after the hour . My initial problem was delayed starting and a little wavering at idle . a gasket and sealer is perfectly fine too . I did not have a power issue before or after .
 
Well, if it helps any...

My kit came with an aluminum intake manifold (fortunately), yet the inside was machined very poorly. So as I was polishing the inside, I also noticed that not only was the manifold/intake port gasket smaller than the opening in the intake manifold - but the inside diameter of the intake manifold was also significantly smaller than the intake port as well.

Enter the Dremil MUHAhaha :D

I "ovaled" out the intake port side of the manifold and cut a new "custom" gasket out of comparatively thick, quality gasket material, finished polishing up the rest of the manifold, finished the mating surfaces flush, and bolted the whole deal back together.

She now misfires less and I can hold a steady (for real) 29-30mph, whereas before I could only hold 26-27mph and that was somewhat variable. (GPS used for speed measurements)

Now, I couldn't say if it was the old crappy paper thin gasket she came with leaking, or if my polishing and widening out the manifold was what did the trick - or even a bit of both...

But w/o a doubt its worth the effort! If nothing else - jus get yerself some good gasket material and make up a real gasket for the thing. Personally, I kinda hate sloppy insta-gasket type goo - it works in a pinch... kinda... but really its meant to be used in conjunction with a proper gasket anyway.

And it makes everything a pain to deal with later :p
 
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It has been my experience that the mating surfaces of almost every intake and exhaust manifold could benefit from some work. The aluminum intakes are better than the steel ones in that respect but if you check by rubbing them across sandpaper laying on a flat surface you'll see the high and low areas. These low/high spots can contribute to early gasket failure and leaks, even with a good gasket. I recommend that the flanged mating surfaces be filed/sanded/ground to a get them truely flat. The machined mating surface on the cylinders usually seem to be good but I check them too and dress them if needed. As for gaskets, the kit supplied gaskets are not the greatest but if the mating surfaces are flush and a good gasket sealer is used on the intake you should get good results. The exhaust gasket too is not the best but a flat surface will greatly improve its sealing ability. Proper torquing is important also. Install, torque, warm the engine with a ride and re-torque the fasteners. You shouldn't need to mess with them much afterwards.
 
I just mark the gasket and trim it to clear, then hit the surface(s) with a file, goober up both sides of the gasket and install.

Never a leak out of 12 so far.
 
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