Installing Sprocket w/ Rubber... Need Help

MysterySandwich

MysterySandwich

New Member
Got my first engine kit (from Venice Motor Bikes)today, and it's been a bad start, with me not being able to install the sprocket, the helmet I ordered arriving cracked, and the price of the black kit lowering to the same price as the silver... 5 days after I ordered the silver.


Anyway, I need some help with the sprocket... here are some pictures

Sprocket-1.jpg

image-1.jpg


I saw the motovelo.us video on how to install and I can't get it right. I put the bolts on but I have some much trouble doing these things:
-Keeping it center'd
-Making sure the 3 crescent metal plates don't overlap.
-Tightening the bolts
>Is there a trick to tightening the bolts? I have to awkwardly use 2 wrenches: one to hold the bolt in place as I use the other to tighten the nut on the other side...

I really hope I can get some help.. I don't want to spend $50+ on a sprocket adapter...
 
i really cant offer too much advice.
i used my 1/4" air ratchet and cranked em down till almost snug.
bike was upside down,spinning wheel and tightening evenly til it was all tight.
i tweaked my spokes a little before i started,made sure rim was true and spokes were snug.
it was the first part of my install.
 
Don't allow the metal plates to overlap as yours do in the top photo. They must lay end to end, not overlapped. As for installing, yes, they can be frustrating the first time but so far you're doing it right. Just be patient. Everyone has done it at least once. The absolute most important thing is getting the sprocket perfectly centered on the rear hub and there are no wobbles, side to side or top to bottom when the rear wheel is spinning.

Tighten the bolts/nuts by alternating from side to side. Once everything is in place and you've taken the slack out, torque the bolts to about 60 to 80 inch pounds. After tighteneing check for any wobbles and correct them before installing the chain.
Good luck.

Tom
 
2door said:
Don't allow the metal plates to overlap as yours do in the top photo. They must lay end to end, not overlapped. As for installing, yes, they can be frustrating the first time but so far you're doing it right. Just be patient. Everyone has done it at least once. The absolute most important thing is getting the sprocket perfectly centered on the rear hub and there are no wobbles, side to side or top to bottom when the rear wheel is spinning.

Tighten the bolts/nuts by alternating from side to side. Once everything is in place and you've taken the slack out, torque the bolts to about 60 to 80 inch pounds. After tighteneing check for any wobbles and correct them before installing the chain.
Good luck.

Tom
Click to expand...
The problem with overlapping is, it's difficult to do while keeping the sprocket center'd. When I push with enough force for the plates to align correctly, the sprocket goes out of center. And when I push the sprocket back into the center, the plates overlap again.

When I try to tighten them by one side, the whole bolt just spins as I turn... so nothing happens. Is there a trick to this? The guy in the video just turns one side and it works... but for me I have to awkwardly use to wrenches and it takes me about 2 minutes to slightly tighten each bolt...

Thanks for the encouragement/help... hopefully I'll get it tomorrow (with some more tips)
 
if i recall,after the bolts are snugged a little,a little pry with a thin screwdriver aligned the plates.a little trial and swear and you will get it.
put the wheel back in the frame and flip the bike upside down.i dont know why,but this seemed to help me a lot.
i guess the wheel is then in a holding fixture.
 
Tighten the bolts just a little; then use a flat screwdriver to adjust the plates; then I use a plastic hammer to gently tap the sprocket to center it. Spinning the wheel to see how centered the sprocket is really helps.
After the sprocket is centered, you should slowly tighten the bolts little by little in a star pattern.
 
HI,

To help keep the sprocket centered on the hub while tightening, use "shims" of some sort.

On my "rag joint" installs I typically wedge in the appropriate sized paper clip wire between the hub and the center of the sprocket. (On the hub I was using the center of the sprocket was very close to the hub so a few strategically placed paperclips and I was centered and simply had to tighten the bolts).

As an aside: It was VERY difficult to pull the paperclips out after tightening the bolts so I cheated and used end nippers and cut the paperclips off flush w/ the sprocket....I was worried the small pieces would fall out one day and cause a flat BUT they are still there after hundreds of miles!

NOTE: I used paperclips (they are available in different wire sizes BUT depending on the gap you have to work with (between the sprocket center and the hub itself) you may have to find a "shim" that works for you.

Hope this helps you.

Andrew
 
Okay thanks guys, for the tips, will definitely try the screwdriver/mounting on the frame (going to have to find a soft blunt object... don't have a plastic/rubber hammer)

But with the paperclips, do you mean unfoiling them so they're become straight and then wrappnig them around? I feel like if I try that they will be really uneven. Do you have any pictures?

Also, in my second picture, am I using the right parts? From left to right it goes
-Bolt
-Sprocket
-Rubber
-Spokes
-Rubber
-Washer
-Nut

I saw somethings like this http://media.qcsupply.com/catalog/p...df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/4/0/40520.jpg should I be using those instead of the flat washers?

And two of my spokes are loose... will that cause big problems or just out-of-truness?
 
Last edited:
If your spokes are loose they need to be tightened and the wheel trued. If you don't know how to do that properly a bike shop will do it or there are many good tutorials on line to help.
We do not recommend installing the sprocket on a wheel that is not true or with loose, missing or bent spokes.

Yes, you have the sequence of parts correct. Sort of like your screen name, it's a sandwich with the spokes as the center. The provided fasteners will suffice, just don't overtighten them. As I said above, 60 to 80 inch pounds maximum.

A block of wood will suffice in place of a rubber or plastic hammer. Lay the wood on the enge of the sprocket teeth to protect them from being damaged.

Andy's paperclip shim idea is a good one. To clairfy, the wire of the paper clip will go in parallel with the axle. In other words the same direction as the sprocket bolts. They'll only go in as deep as the sprocket thickness but will serve as a giude to center the sprocket on the hub. Three will usually suffice, spaced evenly around the inside circumference of the sprocket and against the outer circumference of the hub. Hope that's clear. A picture would be better.
Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

Tom
 
It takes me about an hour to put on the rag joint. Then you realize the sprocket is turned the wrong way. So another hour to take it off, and another hour to put it back on again. It is frustrating, just keep reminding yourself it is a fun hobby!!
 
leadfarmer said:
It takes me about an hour to put on the rag joint. Then you realize the sprocket is turned the wrong way. So another hour to take it off, and another hour to put it back on again. It is frustrating, just keep reminding yourself it is a fun hobby!!
Click to expand...

YES!! Thats a real good point... make sure the sprocket is 'dished out' if you have fat cruiser tires! (so the chain will clear the tire). ;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top