in-frame 4-stroke, LONG belt

B

beltbuckle

New Member
Got my schwinn clairmont ordered up, have the 99cc predator to stick in the frame. Playing with ideas, I like the look of a long belt. Anyone tried a friction drive with the roller at the back of the back tire? If the stock rack is not beefy enough (which it probably isn't) i might just fab up one from steel to replace it.

crude drawing, there would be a belt idler/tensioner in there some where...
 

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so with a belt tensioner on top i am thinking this could work. the roller shaft arm would be tensioned to the rear dropout with a spring/turnbuckle combo. when not in use the turnbuckles could easily be loosened and the roller shaft arm swung up and out of the way.

6094647872_8a77639123_o.jpg
 
Honestly, I cannot see why you'd go to all that trouble and end up with friction drive. Don't get me wrong, I like friction drives, but in large part because they are so simple. If you're set on a long belt why not go with belt drive on a wheel sheave?
 
it's really not more complicated than other belt driven friction drives, just a longer belt really. i want to put the roller in back so i am not limited in roller diameter. plus i like friction drives that can be easily "disabled" if necessary to eliminate any drag associated with the drive train. i don't really like the rear wheel sheaves that attach to the spokes, that seems like a recipe for breaking spokes.
 
The wheel sheaves I mean attach to the rim, there are several methods and one of the simplest has been worked out by a member here Lowracer where he laminates them to the rim. Check his posts. The positive thing is you get all weather/road surface traction with belt drive, if that is at all a concern.

To each their own though. The friction drives I like and use I can swap the whole engine/drive assembly from one bike to the next in 20 minutes, IMO that's their simple beauty, they do not impact the original bike in the least, they are lightweight and freewheel completely and use drive spindles from 7/8" to 1 1/2".
 
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The rack is probably not strong enough, Im sure it is the same one that was on my Point Beach, just thin stamped sheet metal. The roller should drive fine in the rear. If you could use the threaded lugs on the drop out plates, you could swing the roller up and down on arms, something like aluminum (or steel) angle with pillow bearings for the shaft, have a latch to hold it up for free pedaling.
 
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