IDing spark plug

[Brass Mann]

I made another thread a while ago asking for solutions on a no-spark (never ran) on my first (and to date only) build using the following kit from Amazon, which can be found here - it focused on the electrical connections.
I'm getting rather exasperated with this bike and it's general refusal to run, and am trying to acquire a new spark plug. Should I contact the manufacturer to obtain a new plug under the warranty, or are they easy to find?

I've included a picture to help identify. There's no other information written on the plug besides the "E6TC" visible in the picture.

 

[Tony01]

I made another thread a while ago asking for solutions on a no-spark (never ran) on my first (and to date only) build using the following kit from Amazon, which can be found here - it focused on the electrical connections.
I'm getting rather exasperated with this bike and it's general refusal to run, and am trying to acquire a new spark plug. Should I contact the manufacturer to obtain a new plug under the warranty, or are they easy to find?

I've included a picture to help identify. There's no other information written on the plug besides the "E6TC" visible in the picture.

it’s probably not the plug. A fouled plug is not a worn plug.

 

[Mossy]

I made another thread a while ago asking for solutions on a no-spark (never ran) on my first (and to date only) build using the following kit from Amazon, which can be found here - it focused on the electrical connections.
I'm getting rather exasperated with this bike and it's general refusal to run, and am trying to acquire a new spark plug. Should I contact the manufacturer to obtain a new plug under the warranty, or are they easy to find?

I've included a picture to help identify. There's no other information written on the plug besides the "E6TC" visible in the picture.

Ngk BR6HS gap to .028 the kit plug is garbage.. the part # 3922

 

[Tom from Rubicon]

Ya cut the guy a little slack Tony. He is 17 and not dry behind the ears.

Brass Mann. a very cheap fix may be replacing the CDI. My neighbor bought a Two Stink bike and very shortly it refused to run. Chris came down with a long face to tell me about it. He got a new CDI and has been running great ever since. Try it.

Tom

 

[Brass Mann]

Ya cut the guy a little slack Tony. He is 17 and not dry behind the ears.

Brass Mann. a very cheap fix may be replacing the CDI. My neighbor bought a Two Stink bike and very shortly it refused to run. Chris came down with a long face to tell me about it. He got a new CDI and has been running great ever since. Try it.

Tom

Should I get this CDI from a specific supplier or contact the manufacturer to receive an identical one under warranty?

 

[Mossy]

Should I get this CDI from a specific supplier or contact the manufacturer to receive an identical one under warranty?

CDH power has a decent set or you can wait for the DLH best of the best to come back in stock...

 

[Testname111]

Dude get any spark plug with the same thread length!!! I used iridium spark plugs and champion (lawnmower plugs) all day!

 

[Testname111]

I never had one of these cdi die in over 2 years

BBR Tuning Volt Master High Performance Racing CDI (Stage 2)

The High Performance CDI box is the spark your high-performance motor has been waiting for. Click to check it out.

www.bikeberry.com

 

[Testname111]

Bikeberry Super magneto

BBR Tuning High Performance 2-stroke Super Magneto

Tired of getting a weak, inconsistent spark? With the BBR Tuning High Performance 2-stroke Super Magneto your spark issues are soon a thing of the past. More powerful than your stock magneto, the Super Magneto will make sure the spark you get is strong and your CDI keeps getting that spark more...

www.bikeberry.com

 

[Mossy]

Reading the plug will get you to the proper plug... I sudgest a 6 but if you're in summer a 7 in ngk is a little colder the oil ratio and how rich or lean the air fuel ratio is and how you ride can effect it if you're putting around or full throttle effects it also.. the point is use the posts on here as a guide but it's going to be your specific engine and these other factors that will help you dial in the plug and jets that your eventually going to find work best... If you start out rich and cold you won't damage your engine and as it breaks in they will lean out a bit as it's making more power after the first few gallons...

 

[Mossy]

Spark Plugs that cross over to the 66/80cc happy time motors...
Accel - 0453
AC Delco - R44F
Autolite - 4123, 425, 275, 4093, XS4093
Beru - 14R-7BU
Bosch - W6AC WR6BC+, WR7BC+
Champion - L82YC, RL82YC, L86C
Daytona Maxfire - 61490
Denso - W20FPR-U, IWF20
E3 - E3.32
Eyquem - 775SX
Motorcraft - AER32
NGK - B6HS, B7HS, BP6HS, BP7HS, BPR6HS, BPR7HS, BPR6HIX, BPR7HIX
SplitFire - SF265F, SF412C <--- both discontinued - Shucks!!
Torch - E6TC, E6RTC

Also, for those of you who are looking for a "shorty" plug for a tight fitting engine, I managed to find some 3/8" reach plugs that will fit just fine in the stock heads that came with 1/2" reach plugs.

Autolite - 2974, XST2974, 254, XST254 ( The 254 has a solid terminal bud that won't work with the stock cap, if this is a problem, use the 2974 which has a threaded terminal bud. )
NGK - BM7

 

[Testname111]

Now that's a list ^^^

 

[Brass Mann]

Thanks for your answers, folks. With your blessing*, I'm thinking of getting the following CDI and plug.
*By this I mean I'd like to confirm I'm not making some kind of mistake before ordering.

 

[Tom from Rubicon]

Just try a new CDI first, spark plugs are nearly flawless.

Tom