I about died from laughing!!!!!!

Ratt_Bones

Ratt_Bones

New Member
So, a buddy of mine wanted a GT2 Grubee frame. He made a few calls on it. First Gasbike.net. Turns out that their staff is all outsourced to Pakistan. Just mindless automatons that have zero knowledge of anything to do with anything that gasbike.net sells. So....... On o the next website. This time it was custom motor bicycles dot com. Nice girl who answered the phone. Lynn I think. When asked about the frames, it was noted that the pedestal mount frame was advertised on their website, but the photos of the pedestal builds were the frames without them. When asked how much the frames would be without the pedestal mount, she said they were both the premium price. Same. Wait, what?

Ok, next question. The site says 135mm dropout spacing, and available for 110mm spacing, do you have one in the 110mm spacing? She said no, they only come in the 135mm spacing. What you need to do for single speed, and coaster brake hubs is to set the frame on the ground, stand on it, ans "smoosh" it down until it looks to be about 110mm.

I about died laughing after this! What competent bike mechanic in their right mind would even consider telling some one to do something as dumb as this?

Here, buy my $300.00 frame, take it home, stand on it, and bounce up and down. WTF man? Seriously?

Guess it's good to know where you buy things from before you buy them.
 
Its how it’s done, crude but true. I would use a vise tho...

I have two frames that were 1500.00 each that were for 110mm but needed to be for 135mm spacing...so guess what? Scissor Jack…to the rescue...
 
Properly done 135mm to 110mm conversion, would be with purpose made axle spacers, wheel dishing, and or just purchase a hack shaft kit. Knocking a perfectly straight frame out of alignment to cruise much faster than bicycles are intended to go is just..... Well, not very smart. Not only that, but aluminum is not made to flex like steel or chromoly.
 
Yeah, jumping up and down on the dropouts will work, but you do run the risk of bending one side in more than the other. I wouldn't try it with aluminum, and I doubt it work with carbon fiber or magnesium or titanium, but using a vice (carefully) or a high-end bolt and washers to gradually bring the dropouts closer would work rather well on a steel frame. You'll want to check it with a caliper as you go, and not rush it. From 135 to 110 sounds like a far way to go though. I think I'd bring it close then use spacers also. Just my 2 cents.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top