Huffy Nel Lusso - 1st build by a new guy
- Thread starter Three-Wire
- Start date
It's funny that you had the same fuel line problem that I had considering we basically have the same frame. At first I tried drilling a 1/2inch hole through that small frame structure but found that the valve still hit the chassis. So I just hacked out 1.5 inches of frame. I'm not too worried about the frame staying together because that same piece of frame is welded to the seat post. I'll send you some pictures of the hack job. It's always fun to play with my big Milwaukee sawzall.
This is how I fixed that problem. Most hardware stores carry brass plumbing fixtures that go from thread to hose barb. Take your petcock in and match up the threaded side. I also grabbed a o-ring and washer while I was there and sealed the threads with permatex. Works great and doesn't leak.
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Thanks! A trip to Ace or Lowe's is the first thing on tomorrow's To-Do list... With any luck, I'll be riding by Sunday afternoon.
I see a small, potential problem here......no fuel filter whatsoever....that more than likely will be a problem not to far down the road. Just sayin'.This is how I fixed that problem. Most hardware stores carry brass plumbing fixtures that go from thread to hose barb. Take your petcock in and match up the threaded side. I also grabbed a o-ring and washer while I was there and sealed the threads with permatex. Works great and doesn't leak.
It's definitely worth investing a few dollars in an inline filter, just for the
of mind alone.
Now we're talkin', nice plumbing....I used to be a plumber too!
Nice filter by the way.
That does look good. Where'd you get the fuel bowl and how did you mount it to the frame?
The fuel bowl is from Napa , part #7-02350 - Filter Bowl Assembly Complete. They charged me $18 bucks.
I didnt mount it to the frame. I let the pipe hold it up. I was bending it too much after I compressed the fittings and I got a leak at a joint so I have to redo it and this time I will probably get it alittle closer to the frame so I can slap a couple zip ties or some type of hardware store hanger around the pipe. So a small tip if you try this , bend your pipe exactly how you want it before you tighten the compression nuts or even put them on. The copper pipe comes in 5 and 10 foot rolls , bigger too , so you have room to experiment but the compression rings you only got one shot with but they are only a few cents each.
I didnt mount it to the frame. I let the pipe hold it up. I was bending it too much after I compressed the fittings and I got a leak at a joint so I have to redo it and this time I will probably get it alittle closer to the frame so I can slap a couple zip ties or some type of hardware store hanger around the pipe. So a small tip if you try this , bend your pipe exactly how you want it before you tighten the compression nuts or even put them on. The copper pipe comes in 5 and 10 foot rolls , bigger too , so you have room to experiment but the compression rings you only got one shot with but they are only a few cents each.
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IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!! But first, the update...
I started out by tweaking the cables to be set up like I wanted. Had to shorten the rear brake and throttle cable sheathes significantly, and the throttle cable itself quite a bit more than the sheath. The cable itself is still probably 8mm too long, but that'll be a project for a rainy day. I used this guys method and it worked great! My soldering iron gets hot enough that I didn't need to use a torch... YouTube - Shorten a cable
My $0.99 ebay bike computer was easy to install and works great. Evidently I'm not smart enough to figure out how to switch between kilometers and miles, but I really like the display. I'll keep playing with it. ebay LCD Bicycle Computer
I had to remove the rear wheel and adjust the tire so it spins the right way - this Huffy comes with directional tires... While it was off, I figured I'd mount the rear fender. I used heatshrink to cushion the rear fender mount, an idea I picked up elsewhere on this site. Had to cut two notches in the fender for drive chain clearance but that was easy with my Dremel. The rear brake fits around the fender, but contacts at the center pivot - doesn't impede function so I'll leave it.
I had to remove the front wheel to install the Slime anti-puncture strip, so I figured I'd finish the fender mods for it as well. I made a new L-bracket out of a chain-link fence clip that extends aft of the stock bracket's rear ear and has two bolts to hold it to the fender. I replaced the stock bracket's rivet with a bolt and mounted them both with JB Weld and the bolts for good measure. Used the heat-shrink tubing like on the rear fender, and mounted everything up. Front brake has the same contact issue as the rear but works just as well , so I gues it's not an issue.
The drive chain chain-guard took some trimming to clear the rear fender and frame but fits well and looks good now. I bought a padded P-clamp for the mount.
The fuel line parts took the most time but turned out to be really simple! I took the petcock and gas tank to Ace and messed around with their brass fittings until I found a solution. It's a combination of pipe thread, flared, and barbed fittings but it works great and doesn't leak! Thanks to corgi1 and r00t4rd3d for the suggestions...
Using Lucas semi-synthetic 2-stroke oil, I mixed up a gallon of 91 octane to 24:1 and pedaled her out for a ride. Had a little trouble getting started since my engine doesn't like to be choked much, but after a couple attempts I had her running! Put about 11 miles on her in 2 sessions riding around my neighborhood. Had to tighten the chains between rides and the muffler heat shield fell off but otherwise no real issues. Got some curious looks from bikers and neighbors and mostly friendly waves. One neighbor even chased me home to ask about it!
I started out by tweaking the cables to be set up like I wanted. Had to shorten the rear brake and throttle cable sheathes significantly, and the throttle cable itself quite a bit more than the sheath. The cable itself is still probably 8mm too long, but that'll be a project for a rainy day. I used this guys method and it worked great! My soldering iron gets hot enough that I didn't need to use a torch... YouTube - Shorten a cable
My $0.99 ebay bike computer was easy to install and works great. Evidently I'm not smart enough to figure out how to switch between kilometers and miles, but I really like the display. I'll keep playing with it. ebay LCD Bicycle Computer
I had to remove the rear wheel and adjust the tire so it spins the right way - this Huffy comes with directional tires... While it was off, I figured I'd mount the rear fender. I used heatshrink to cushion the rear fender mount, an idea I picked up elsewhere on this site. Had to cut two notches in the fender for drive chain clearance but that was easy with my Dremel. The rear brake fits around the fender, but contacts at the center pivot - doesn't impede function so I'll leave it.
I had to remove the front wheel to install the Slime anti-puncture strip, so I figured I'd finish the fender mods for it as well. I made a new L-bracket out of a chain-link fence clip that extends aft of the stock bracket's rear ear and has two bolts to hold it to the fender. I replaced the stock bracket's rivet with a bolt and mounted them both with JB Weld and the bolts for good measure. Used the heat-shrink tubing like on the rear fender, and mounted everything up. Front brake has the same contact issue as the rear but works just as well , so I gues it's not an issue.
The drive chain chain-guard took some trimming to clear the rear fender and frame but fits well and looks good now. I bought a padded P-clamp for the mount.
The fuel line parts took the most time but turned out to be really simple! I took the petcock and gas tank to Ace and messed around with their brass fittings until I found a solution. It's a combination of pipe thread, flared, and barbed fittings but it works great and doesn't leak! Thanks to corgi1 and r00t4rd3d for the suggestions...
Using Lucas semi-synthetic 2-stroke oil, I mixed up a gallon of 91 octane to 24:1 and pedaled her out for a ride. Had a little trouble getting started since my engine doesn't like to be choked much, but after a couple attempts I had her running! Put about 11 miles on her in 2 sessions riding around my neighborhood. Had to tighten the chains between rides and the muffler heat shield fell off but otherwise no real issues. Got some curious looks from bikers and neighbors and mostly friendly waves. One neighbor even chased me home to ask about it!
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So, what's next?
Well, I want to finish the break in period with this bike. The more it runs, the better it runs. Doesn't idle at all yet without some throttle, but that should improve with use.
I need to make the chain clearance notches in the rear fender deeper. When I hit bumps, the chain sometimes contacts the fender... A few minutes with a Dremel will fix that nicely, but I have to remove the rear wheel to do it.
I think a poo-poo pipe and after-muffler like I see on other bikes on this site would go a long ways towards making me more neighbor-friendly. I'm not out for top-speed on this bike anway...
I'm tall and I hit the handlebars with my knees when I pedal, so I've got a different set of handlebars ordered. Maybe a lay-back seat post would help, too, since I feel like I sit too far forward on the frame.
To be legal in Kansas, I'll need a decent DOT helmet. And I'd like generator-driven lights too...
My wife says that she might want one too, so that'll be a chance to avoid some of the mistakes I made with this one. She's got a NEXT Avalon that I think would be a fun motor-mounting challenge and make a good full-suspension motored bike (convert to coaster brake & single speed rear wheel), but I'll have to get her a new bike before she'll give up that one.
And, I picked up a late 90's Schwinn cruiser frame at a garage sale... I have this vision of a black pseudo-hot rod with a Monarck style fork, straight handlebars, extended dropouts ala LuftWulf, a way-layed-back seat post, a custom or salvaged gas tank...
I don't have much time to play these days, but this project has been a great break from aviation and the most fun I've had in a long time! Thanks to everyone for their advice and encouragement!
Well, I want to finish the break in period with this bike. The more it runs, the better it runs. Doesn't idle at all yet without some throttle, but that should improve with use.
I need to make the chain clearance notches in the rear fender deeper. When I hit bumps, the chain sometimes contacts the fender... A few minutes with a Dremel will fix that nicely, but I have to remove the rear wheel to do it.
I think a poo-poo pipe and after-muffler like I see on other bikes on this site would go a long ways towards making me more neighbor-friendly. I'm not out for top-speed on this bike anway...
I'm tall and I hit the handlebars with my knees when I pedal, so I've got a different set of handlebars ordered. Maybe a lay-back seat post would help, too, since I feel like I sit too far forward on the frame.
To be legal in Kansas, I'll need a decent DOT helmet. And I'd like generator-driven lights too...
My wife says that she might want one too, so that'll be a chance to avoid some of the mistakes I made with this one. She's got a NEXT Avalon that I think would be a fun motor-mounting challenge and make a good full-suspension motored bike (convert to coaster brake & single speed rear wheel), but I'll have to get her a new bike before she'll give up that one.
And, I picked up a late 90's Schwinn cruiser frame at a garage sale... I have this vision of a black pseudo-hot rod with a Monarck style fork, straight handlebars, extended dropouts ala LuftWulf, a way-layed-back seat post, a custom or salvaged gas tank...
I don't have much time to play these days, but this project has been a great break from aviation and the most fun I've had in a long time! Thanks to everyone for their advice and encouragement!
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Here's a list of all the aftermarket parts I used to build this bike.
Huffy Nel Lusso from WalMart
Grubee 66cc Silver 2010 engine kit
CustomMotoredBikes Heavy-Duty coaster brake wheel set
SickBikeParts Universal front engine mount - This frame has a 1.5" downtube, and the Grubee kit I got has a 1.6 inch engine bolt spacing.
Al.Fisherman's clutch cable roller kit
Pyramid side-pull brake set
SickBikeParts dual-brake handle
Pyramid round mirror
ebay LCD Bike Computer
Lucas Semi-Synthetic 2-stroke oil
Padded P-clamp, brass fittings, Krylon Chocolate Brown paint, and miscelaneous hardware from Ace
Huffy Nel Lusso from WalMart
Grubee 66cc Silver 2010 engine kit
CustomMotoredBikes Heavy-Duty coaster brake wheel set
SickBikeParts Universal front engine mount - This frame has a 1.5" downtube, and the Grubee kit I got has a 1.6 inch engine bolt spacing.
Al.Fisherman's clutch cable roller kit
Pyramid side-pull brake set
SickBikeParts dual-brake handle
Pyramid round mirror
ebay LCD Bike Computer
Lucas Semi-Synthetic 2-stroke oil
Padded P-clamp, brass fittings, Krylon Chocolate Brown paint, and miscelaneous hardware from Ace
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For hers, it would have to be super simple... I don't think shifting and extra parts would be a very good solution. I was leaning towards sprung tensioners like this.
Couldn't let a head cold keep me down on one of the last nice-weather weekends of the year so I went out riding around my neighborhood both days this weekend... Like everyone says, the more it runs the better it runs! After 25 miles it was still 4-stroking alot and would not idle at all so I started playing with the needles. A little adjusting here, a little tweaking there, it idles great and runs smooth throughout the whole range.
I did spend a few minutes with the dremmel opening up the fender cutouts, and I did shorten up the throttle cable to the correct length. As I expected, the drive chain is stretching much more than the pendal chain. I put the kit tensioner on so I could keep riding for now, but I will pick up a half-link in the near future so I can remove the tensioner.
All in all, a whole lot of fun!
I did spend a few minutes with the dremmel opening up the fender cutouts, and I did shorten up the throttle cable to the correct length. As I expected, the drive chain is stretching much more than the pendal chain. I put the kit tensioner on so I could keep riding for now, but I will pick up a half-link in the near future so I can remove the tensioner.
All in all, a whole lot of fun!
What do you think of the Machined Aluminum spring loaded tensioner I'm developing? It's in the Sell it Swap it Thread.Kip.
[email protected]
Thanks! It seems daunting at first, but just be patient and eat the elephant one bite at a time... When you get frustrated, walk away for a little bit and try again later - that usually keeps me from wrecking stuff.
If you have any questions, just ask and I'll tell you what I did. The finished product is a real hoot and well worth the effort!
I really like your tensioner idea! I need something like that for this bike, but I think it could work okay for relatively short travel full-suspension bikes too. Would depend on spring tension and available idler travel. If you could work a toothed idler into that design you'd have a real winner...
Hi,Three Wire.Already have!It will be a little more than the wheel.Stay tuned! Kip.
[email protected]
So at this point, I've burned 2/3 gallon and gone 102km with a big silly grin on my face. I built this bike as a diversion but have had so much fun with it that I've now got 3 more frames to motorize!
Maintenance has been really light so far. I've had to replace the seat with a Velo quilted brown sprung seat because the Huffy seat started to lean pretty heavily to the right... I also put in a mild lay-back seatpost to give my knees some extra handlebar clearance.
I've messed with lengths of both chains trying to come to some compromise on chain length that would avoid the tensioner but I can't do it. The lower drive chain bounces too much without the tensioner... I've painted the kit tensioner brackets brown to match the fuel tank and it'll go back onto the drive chain until kipharley or someone else releases a good sprung tensioner.
I've let my wife, some neighbors, my engineer coworkers, and several of the mechanics I go to school with ride it, and the opinion is unanimous - It's a real hoot! Sure, there's sniggers and jeers when you mention "moped" or "scooter", but everyone who rides has the same big silly grin. They're all impressed with the speed and power. Most want to know where I got the parts, how long it took, and how much it cost. Guess I'll make up some bike cards to hand out...
Maintenance has been really light so far. I've had to replace the seat with a Velo quilted brown sprung seat because the Huffy seat started to lean pretty heavily to the right... I also put in a mild lay-back seatpost to give my knees some extra handlebar clearance.
I've messed with lengths of both chains trying to come to some compromise on chain length that would avoid the tensioner but I can't do it. The lower drive chain bounces too much without the tensioner... I've painted the kit tensioner brackets brown to match the fuel tank and it'll go back onto the drive chain until kipharley or someone else releases a good sprung tensioner.
I've let my wife, some neighbors, my engineer coworkers, and several of the mechanics I go to school with ride it, and the opinion is unanimous - It's a real hoot! Sure, there's sniggers and jeers when you mention "moped" or "scooter", but everyone who rides has the same big silly grin.
They're all impressed with the speed and power. Most want to know where I got the parts, how long it took, and how much it cost. Guess I'll make up some bike cards to hand out...