HS 49cc is losing the fight for survival...

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Mr. Minecraft

Mr. Minecraft

Visionary
Jan 13, 2012
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San Diego
Alright so I got the engine from Phantom bikes, I will take some pics of the internals and post them up here for you to analyze.

What can I do to improve lubrication to the crankshaft and con rod? I read on here that the hole in the end cap could help, and if so, what size should the hole be? To prevent the connecting rod to break can I put a layer of JB weld on the bend spot?
 
Mr. Minecraft

Mr. Minecraft

Visionary
Jan 13, 2012
349
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San Diego
Well I took apart the engine Phantom Bikes gave me and everything is in perfect condition! I cleaned everything I am going to use in purple cleaner, the rinsed it all thouroly with water, then dried it all in my oven :D.

One odd thing that happened is the piston. I only put one piston in the purple cleaner, and this is the comparison to how it looked before and after. I have no idea if the structural integrity of the piston is compromised, or if this is just an aesthetic change. I would hate to use the piston only to have it cause problems. The texture of the surface did not change in any way though, so i don't know what to think. This color change always happens to the outside of the jug on all engines I have cleaned and if you rub the jug with your finger some dark material would smear off onto your finger. The odd thing is that this doesn't happen with the piston. Maybe you guys can figure this out.

Here are the pics:







 
Mr. Minecraft

Mr. Minecraft

Visionary
Jan 13, 2012
349
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San Diego
Alright, so I just finished putting my bike together (hopefully for the last time). I just got my new tachometer in the mail today (along with a Rubik's cube :D). Here are some pics of the tach on my bike. I tested it out on my dad's bike, and it works perfectly and has many hidden settings and functions that I have yet to learn.







The instructions tell you to wrap the wire around the plug wire a few times, but this looked very tacky, so I just shoved it under the boot and it seems to be picking up the signal fine.



I have to wait for all the Permatex and Locktite to dry before I ride it, so I'll let you all know how it runs later this week.


Thanks for all your help and support, and for anyone newbs out there, take this as a lesson. DON'T OVER-REV YOUR ENGINE :)

Happy Riding!
-Chris N.
 
racie35

racie35

Active Member
Nov 17, 2012
1,702
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usa
Rods toast.....maybe you can have it resized if the crank is okay still.....to do that the shave some off where the two halves meet and rebore
 
hawaii_87

hawaii_87

San Diego's Master Ride Organizer
May 17, 2011
576
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San Diego
Wow I ride mine like a $3 mule and WOT nothing. Knock on wood. Must have been beer thirty when that was put together at the factory. How you can make it out to the next ride.
 
Mr. Minecraft

Mr. Minecraft

Visionary
Jan 13, 2012
349
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San Diego
Hey everyone!

So yesterday I took my bike for the first real ride in a LONG time. My dad and I went about 20 miles total (which I'm sure isn't a lot for some of you :)), and on the way back I had some trouble. In the middle of the ride, my bike started to bog down and lose power. My tach said i was at 7k rpm, and with the redline being at 7.8k I assumed I was fine. Be that as it may, I leaned off the throttle a bit and the bike eventually picked up again. Then we started going up a fairly steep hill, and my bike bogged out and died. It was very hard to get it running again, but I got it going by closing the choke and running the bike for a bit, then opening it again.

At first this seemed like my bike was overheating (I also removed the metal engine heat spreaders a while ago which adds to my reasoning), but the choke thing makes it come across as a carb problem. I guess there could be more than one issue plaguing my bike however. I just wanted to see what you guys think before I tear apart my engine again :D

Just to add in some info, I switched oil from Royal Purple 15w30 to Lucas 10w-30 High Performance Motor Cycle Oil. According to the claims on the bottle as well as the employee at O'Riely Auto Parts, this oil is much better for my motorbike.






PS: Still haven't gotten any feedback on if its safe to run a piston that was oxidized from keeping it in purple cleaner too long :)

EDIT: I noticed I have been having all of these problems since I switched to a catch can rather that running the breather into the air filter. That shouldn't have caused this though, right?
 
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577-Jersey

577-Jersey

New Member
Mar 23, 2013
293
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central western nj
The best oil for a 4 stroke motorcycle engine is rotella diesel oil,,I use the synthetic in all my street bikes for years now,,has a way better additive package then the over priced cycle shop name brand oil,,and i love the price tag.Never,ever had any problems with clutches,valves,or piston.Motors look brand new inside after thousands of miles....have a friend who has been using it in his Hayabusa 1300 R with over 30 K on it,,and every time he takes it out he breaks the back tire loose at 90 mph,,so its ridden hard :)

Good times....

Tom:)
 
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Mr. Minecraft

Mr. Minecraft

Visionary
Jan 13, 2012
349
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San Diego
Soooo.... Anyone have any advice or information that can help me out with the actual problem? The pics of the oil are not related to my question, they are just there to show the claims the oil company makes on the bottle.
 
WightBoy

WightBoy

Member
Aug 30, 2012
271
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Michigan, USA
Maybe a dirty carb not sending enough fuel? Maybe a clogged fuel filter? If it runs better with the choke on that is where I would start.
 
B

bikechop

New Member
May 9, 2013
5
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massachusetts
silly question but is it possible to use some fine steel wool to smoothe out the cylinder bore to speed up break in time or is the natural break in time neccesary to use the combustion heat to sorta heat treat the bore to make it wear longer? i know, im strangely technical!
 
Mr. Minecraft

Mr. Minecraft

Visionary
Jan 13, 2012
349
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0
San Diego
bikechop said:
silly question but is it possible to use some fine steel wool to smoothe out the cylinder bore to speed up break in time or is the natural break in time neccesary to use the combustion heat to sorta heat treat the bore to make it wear longer? i know, im strangely technical!
Click to expand...
Break in period is 100% necessary. It is not to smooth out the cylinder as much as seating the rings and loosening everything up. My cylinder still has the crosshatch marks on the inside from when it was bored out. Do not use steel wool or anything of the sort in your cylinder period. There are special tools that are designed to re-bore cylinders, but the first break in period can only be done by using the engine the way it was meant to be used.
 
577-Jersey

577-Jersey

New Member
Mar 23, 2013
293
2
0
central western nj
bikechop said:
silly question but is it possible to use some fine steel wool to smoothe out the cylinder bore to speed up break in time or is the natural break in time neccesary to use the combustion heat to sorta heat treat the bore to make it wear longer? i know, im strangely technical!
Click to expand...
There is no way to mimic the break in process of the parts,,every motor is different,,thus they will break in there own way,,if you removed material too help speed it up,,you could be removing it in the wrong spot.

Break it in hard,,just like your gonna run it!!

Good Times...
 
d_gizzle

d_gizzle

Active Member
May 29, 2012
1,102
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ARDMORE,OK
Umm.....maybe I'm missing something here. You told me in a different thread this was being solved. Now.....another issue.....and.....What's with the motorcycle oil? Its not a motorcycle engine,its a industrial engine. You know,for water pumps,compressors,etc. I have one of these engines and other than putting on a sbp filter,I've done nothing else and it seems to run just fine. Need to dust it off though.....
 
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