How to make a cylinder gasket?

DanielMaia

DanielMaia

New Member
Hi guys,

I bought a 0.5mm aluminium file, to make a cylinder gasket for my 60cc engine,

0.5mm is fine?

How to make it?

thank you
 
If it is a head gasket, trace your old one onto the new material and cut it out.
If it is blown out on one side, trace the good half then flip it over to finish the trace.
If you have no gasket, make a template out of paper then trace it into the gasket material.

For cutting holes, you can make your own hole punch out of most any suitable diameter strong metal tubing by sharpening one side. Hit it with a hammer, and resharpen if necessary. Back up the material to be punched with a flat piece of hardwood or tough plastic such as a discarded tupperware lid.
 
Thank you, but i wanted for cylinder gasket, not the head gasket... :\

The cylinder gasket is more difficult..a bit..

Aluminium is fine?
 
But if you really want to use aluminum and you don't have an old gasket for a template make one out of card stock then transfer onto the aluminum. After you have your pattern on the aluminum you can cut it with a sharp utility knife if you take your time and make multiple passes just scoring the aluminum each time.
 
Sorry for the misunderstanding. Cylinders have 2 gaskets and due to your choice of aluminum as a gasket material I assumed that you were referring to a cylinder head gasket.
 
GearNut said:
Hit it with a hammer, and resharpen if necessary. Back up the material to be punched with a flat piece of hardwood or tough plastic such as a discarded tupperware lid.
Click to expand...

After you are done hide the tupperware lid where it will never be found 'cause it was really only missplaced and.......lol xct2
 
I save old containers and buy them at garage sales for exactly such purposes.
They make for very durable, disposable, abuse-able storage and tools.
 
Here is a .Pdf file you can print out, cut out and trace onto paper to make a base gasket template. I blew mine out and was worried my tracing skills would not be good enough lol. I believe I obtained this file from this forum but I cannot remember who the OP was. I am not taking credit for making this file just passing it along to help you out. BTW it worked great on my Grubee Starfire GT4 66/80CC engine. If you need a program to unzip it Peazip is a free archive program and it works excellent.

Good luck
 

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omegaunderground said:
Here is a .Pdf file you can print out, cut out and trace onto paper to make a base gasket template. I blew mine out and was worried my tracing skills would not be good enough lol. I believe I obtained this file from this forum but I cannot remember who the OP was. I am not taking credit for making this file just passing it along to help you out. BTW it worked great on my Grubee Starfire GT4 66/80CC engine. If you need a program to unzip it Peazip is a free archive program and it works excellent.

Good luck
Click to expand...

The problem of RSV sealant, is that the cylinder decreases the height, and the ports will not be matched (exhasut and intake) and the performance is raddically changed..

Thanks for the pdf, is printed, i wll take a look :)

thank you guys
 
i think copper would seal better than aluminum for both base and head gaskets. just my 2 cents.. good luck, dennis
 
So I used the K&W Copper Gasket Sealant on my gasket and put it back together. I tried to start it and it still wont start. I looked it over and noticed that oil was coming out of the four holes in the head where the acorn nuts are, and also from the exhaust gasket. Why would it come from the stud holes on top of the head??

I put an even coat of the sealant on one side of the gasket and also on the bottom of the head where it would join together. I dont get it..............
 
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The acorn nuts are well known for bottoming out on the top of the cylinder stud before actually tightening against the cylinder/ head assembly. You think that you tightened everything up correctly..... but...... nope. You were foiled again by another poor design aspect of the stock kits.
Some folks add another washer underneath the acorn nuts to take up room, but a safer and more common fix is to throw away the factory acorn nuts and use standard nuts.
 
I have a washer AND a lock washer under each acorn nut. I think either the bottom of my head or the top of the jug may be uneven. I read that on another thread. I need to take this motor off the bike so I can work on it more easily. I just also purchased some new gaskets from Pirate Cycles. Its a good thing this engine is not hard to take off and put back on. I guess I'll be using the pedals until I figure this out..
 
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