How often do you need to adjust your clutch?

S

Sign Guy

New Member
I've only ridden my bike about 3-4 times and it seems like I need to adjust my clutch before every ride. It this because it is not broken in yet? Or are these rascals quite finicky?

My chain loosened up quite a bit on my last 18 mile ride I'm hoping that this won't require daily adjustment either. Some of you that have ridden quite a bit, chime in and let me know I don't have to do these things daily.
 
What do you mean by "adjust the clutch" ? Are you talking about the clutch itself or the clutch cable tension? Cables will stretch but usually reach a point where they settle down and quit it. A new cable, depending on the quality, might need a couple of tightenings after the first few miles but after that it should be good. You should not have to touch the clutch adjustment (flower nut or spring) for a very long time, if ever.
The kit supplied chain is notorious for premature wear (some call it stretch) and can require tightening several times during the run-in period. Many of us replace the chain with a good quality industrial #41 chain, available at Ace Hardware, Tractor Supply, Grainger and some of our sponsors here. The kit chain is usually #415, interchangable with the #41.
Tom
 
Adjusting the clutch cable is what I'm talking about. Since the cable is from the kit I'm sure it's not the highest quality so I should prepare to adjust it daily for a few weeks then ;-)

Nice to know where to get a new chain - thanks a bunch. I have a Co-op and a Grainger supply about 3 blocks from my house that I drive by daily to and from work. I think my chain is made of licorice rope as it stretches so fast. I might be able to yank out another link here in another day's riding. I'll give it a couple weeks and see if it settles down. I'll most likely go pick up a new chain as I'm going to be commuting on this bike and don't want to worry about anything.
 
Brian,
I should have suggested this in the above post but on a new bike, especially a new one, I leave the clutch disengaged, handlebar lever locked in, whenever I'm not riding. I've found that the stretch works out quicker this was because the cable is under tension for longer periods. Typically I'll only need to adjust the cable tension once, maybe twice after that. Well, anyway, it works for me.
I have a coworker who is an Iron Butt. Rides his big Beemer to work every day, rain or shine and only blizzards get him in his car.
Tom
 
Tom,
Great idea of "pre-stretching" per say the cable by having it in tension while not riding it. I'll do that as soon as I get home and while I'm doing other things to the bike. I need to take a few more photos of it now that it's ride-able. I'd also like to put on about 25 more miles this afternoon as tomorrow I'm pressing it into service.

Your friend sounds like me, I ride all year no matter the weather (I won't start out in snow but if caught in it...). His particular style is called a "YearRounder" Welcome to the Rounders' Website
 
Clutch cable was never an issue for me but the chain took maybe 2 weeks to stop stretching. If your sprocket is not centered the condition will be much worse.
 
Hi, Thanks for that info. Would that also explain why a clutch would slip and not give you the normal torque and power or take off. Thats my problem. any advise would be healpfull.
 
Hello, I just stumbled across this thread and I've been noticing that I've been having the same problem as I very often have to adjust my clutch cable as well as the flower nut or else I'll get slippage or I'll pull the clutch lever and it doesn't fully disengage. I've already gone through three sets of clutch pads in 1,500 miles and also I had to replace the small bevel wheel as well. I think the reason my clutch was doing that was because I hadn't greased the teeth of the small bevel wheel or the clutch puller. I did notice that there is a little pin that comes out of the drive sprocket ofthe motor that is followed by a ball bearing, well because I hadn't greased it the hall bearing was eating a divot into the end of the pin subsequently causing me to have to adjust my clutch as the pin eroded away. I have since replaced it and I keep it greased and haven't had any trouble with it at all lately.
 
I found mine had to be tightened inside 3 full turns on the tensioner nut for the spring inside but after that its been cherry!!!
 
Alwaysbe sure to wipe off the grease and re-grease EVERYTHING (everything includes any part that has a metal-to-metal contact surface) after about every 200 miles of riding or about every 8 hours of operation or you run the risk of wear due to neglect.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top