How fast should my engine go

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Sldgehmmr

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Apr 23, 2019
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6 months started the bike project, since then have like 5000 miles so far I built my own engine mostly stock but some mods iron cylinder MZ pipe had the NT carb then the RT carb now run a 19mm Dellorto way better tune now, bike went 40 with RT carb but acceleration was poor took awhile to get speed and failed with a head wind to hold speed but the 19mm Dellorto is a power house just runs good as I buy carb parts for it. solid 40mph with a serious head wind maybe faster wind at my back? I use a 7cc head the high comp head will burn you out if you drive on the street, piston will fail some way or another from heat. 7cc head run wide open all day.[/QUOTE
I hear you on the drag racer heritage, racing in general...hard to completely set aside even if you want to and I don't.

I get the cost part as well & even these little engines can eat into a limited budget. So building as dollars come available is often the only way to enjoy this hobby and I'm a big fan of having fun with this hobby. Good explanation on the stock muffler mod and getting the cap back on helps create some pressure which is a plus. The first real performance 66 cc I built used the stock kit muffler, I was so disappointed in how it ran (didn't run) speed wise. I sometimes run an induction tach and hr. meter on new builds not a very accurate tach but gets in the ball park with a bit of real time delay on rpm. This motor would run pretty good to about 6,500 rpm & and then very little occurred. I have access to a run way that is really flat and smooth & I tried everything I could think up to make it run...nothing helped. One cool morning I gave It another shot and at 6,500 it again seemed out of steam, but I held her wide open, maybe running 30 mph, for another 1/8 mile or so & it came up on the pipe like I'd hit it with a 100% shot of nitrous and screamed past 10,000 rpm's! All that motor needed was to get past 7,000 rpm's and it would really scoot.

Now here's the point to the story. 2 strokes need a good expansion pipe to really perform well; you could say it's like what a good 4 stroke feels like when it comes up on cam, only more. I've ridden two strokes since the early '60's and knew this, but blamed everything else first,especially my motor mods. If you are fighting the "pipe" the motor will never spin like it could. The only reason the stock pipe worked that day was it was a perfect day, low 60 degrees and relatively high humidity. It never ran like that again with the stock pipe, but when I added a quite average budget expansion chamber, designed to really work at high midrange it would blast through that rpm bottle neck anytime.

Pipe designs are all over the place and I've a half dozen assorted in my parts collection, plus some used motorcycle chambers I "altered" that didn't perform in the range I wanted...now just scrap. It helps if you have help selecting an expansion chamber & setting it up to run with the mods you've already made...this would include carb and settings.

Venice motor bikes can walk you through this 'cause he gets it & builds them, rides and most importantly sells what really works. Most vendors can't accurately answer your questions and only sell what they have & don't understand what they are selling. Venice really understands these little Chinese two strokes!

Rick C.
So in your opinion could I benefit by reaping carbs to a dellorto or is that too much carb?
 
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javy mcdees

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Jul 30, 2018
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if you have an expansion chamber and the engine has a decent cylinder the 19mm will work very well. on a completely stock china girl wit only an expansion chamber? I have not tried that yet so do not really know. The cylinder I have now is ported but very limited due to the transfer ports being too difficult to modify in my case. the intake and exhaust were ported but the timing was untouched with the ports. so maybe if you have a decent stock PK80 it may take the crb just fine, I think it would be fine to tune with.
 
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javy mcdees

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The tune on my bike is tailored to city use the MZ pipe is a mild pipe it works at all rpm pretty good makes real good low rpm power and mid range as well. My cylinder has lazy port timing so high rpm is limited but 40 mph at that rpm is good power. very happy with the performance of this china girl so far.
 
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Sldgehmmr

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Apr 23, 2019
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if you have an expansion chamber and the engine has a decent cylinder the 19mm will work very well. on a completely stock china girl wit only an expansion chamber? I have not tried that yet so do not really know. The cylinder I have now is ported but very limited due to the transfer ports being too difficult to modify in my case. the intake and exhaust were ported but the timing was untouched with the ports. so maybe if you have a decent stock PK80 it may take the crb just fine, I think it would be fine to tune with.
I've got a China girl myself I've put transfer port channels on the piston and grinded a little bit of the piston skirt on the intake side to improve air flow. On my China girl the skirt (at tdc) would overhang the intake port about 1/16 of an inch. I'm pretty sure my hi comp head is a 6mm (I don't exactly remember) I've also pulled all the baffles out of the kit exhaust, port matched it to the jug. A 40mm intake, ngk plug and base gasket delete. That's why I'm considering the dellorto carb and defiantly gonna invest in a performance exhaust
 
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indian22

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DSC_7865 resized.jpg
This is my Grubee frame, board track setup with what I'll call an economy expansion chamber and modified with a removable kit baffle...keeps the police cool & helps some with power band, but much better performance with baffle removed this cost about $70. The real motorcycle expansion chambers off 100cc or so competition dirt bikes are far better when fitted and tuned, they aren't just bolt on and must be modified to work on a China girl engine. Bike salvage cost from free to a few bucks...but some work involved.

This runs the Dellorto carb on a RSE reed valve with both jug and piston mods to take advantage of the reed valve setup. I'll send photos of the jug machine work and the piston window mod later.

p.s. don't mount a chain tensioner upright like shown on the pedal chain side of the photo above...180 degrees out of position! lol my bad.

Photos may have to be resized, but I'll try first.

resized grubee engine 7873.jpg
DSC_7861 resized.jpg
Rick C.
 
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indian22

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I think the photos will better explain the machine work needed to make the reed valve actually produce power. Big hole in the piston = "piston window" the photo of the inside of the jug = "third port"....using either or will produce power from the addition of a reed valve, but using both modifications produces the most.

The 19 mm Dellorto carb when jetted properly will flow more than enough air and fuel to run this setup and any expansion pipe you choose. I'm running higher than stock compression with the 7cc aluminum head...but nothing radical. Jetted down this same carb runs fine on a stock engine also. This one carb with a selection of jects has been on all three stages of tune from stock to highly modified street and ran great. Jet changes were the only mod to the carb. I've not found it necessary to alter the float level along the way either.

The Mikuni carbs or and other quality cycle "slide" flat plate or tube,carbs of the same basic 18 to 20mm size should serve just as well. I use the 22mm Mikuni on two of my bikes 4 stroke bikes that produce 12 & 15 hp from 125 cc engines respectively and both flow well and run great with the only difference in carb tune is one full size jet up size in the 15hp motor. So what I'm trying to get across is 3 mm difference supports triple the horse power of my reed modified 66 cc motors. & twice the displacement. I'd actually like to try a 20 mm Mikuni on these 125cc motors, but they are really expensive compared to the 22mm for some reason. Factory bikes from some of the Chinese companies use a 21mm Mikuni clone for small 125cc motorcycles they build.
expansion pipe.jpg
jug third port.jpg
Piston window.jpg
wrist pin and window piston.jpg
Heads.jpg
 

indian22

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As the photos reveal the widow in the piston allows the cool and lubricating air/fuel mix to flow directly onto the wrist pin assembly & interior of the piston. The hole is close to 2" in diameter. I smooth out the intake port some especially if the reed clearance to jug wall seems tight the reeds should not contact the cylinder as they open. Also with the RSE reed valve I use, doesn't perform as well when adding a spacer between the reed body and cylinder. I donno' why? I've read that you can space the carb back from the reed body to use an angle adapter to run larger high capacity air filters and still clear the frame, but I've not tried it myself.

The expansion pipe shown, is quite inexpensive & works fairly well, but is available and is close to a bolt on with some frames, though rigging pipe hangers will require some thought and effort. Pretty easy compared to some pipes, but not real easy.

Machine work involved end mill, side mill, and ball mill tools on a real mill! ... & a lathe....not a Dremel moto tool!

Rick C.
 
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indian22

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Something I use as a tuning tool is a Trail Tech head temp gauge.

https://www.ebay.com/bhp/trail-tech-temperature

I see they've gone up $10 since I bought mine, but I'd buy it again. It's battery operated 24/7 but apparently doesn't need much juice. Mine's been 5 years already. Normal operating range on my 360 is around 350 degrees. Long climbs and I mean mile or more long will get it over 400.

Another way to get it over 400 is too drop the needle one notch! That's all. And that's where it's so useful as a tuning tool. If I start walking on the leaner side it'll let me know .....

It also records and intermittently flashes the max temp as you ride. What resets the max is when the temp rises past 200 degrees. You park it. It cools off. The next time you ride as soon as it gets past 200 you get a new max.
Fog those are great and I need to try one out. I have a digital infrared in the shop but real time data is where it's at & by the time I reach the shop it's useless. Great diagnostic and tuning tool and if I'm not mistaken made by the same company that makes the digital hr. meters and tachs which I have a few and find very useful. Thanks for the link and review!

Rick C.
 

javy mcdees

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have not tried any reed setup what do they actually improve? only thing I could want with my piston port engine is better low speed torque has plenty power above 10mph.
 
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indian22

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have not tried any reed setup what do they actually improve? only thing I could want with my piston port engine is better low speed torque has plenty power above 10mph.
Javy my setup with both piston window & third transfer port delivers power throughout the range...I feel it mostly in the low and midrange with each exhaust setup I use...but the speed on top is verified by speedometer even though it doesn't feel much different, I'm going faster, if that makes any sense. Of course an expansion chamber designed for top end enhancement will definitely feel faster as well...big kick!

You said your expansion chamber is low/mid range improvement so it should be torquey & have decent throttle response, if you want to get more of this a RSE reed and a large piston window (increased timing for fuel flow) will get you there but could cost you a small amount of speed on top end. This has been observed by myself and a few others. Lots of theories, but I actually don't understand why.

If you make only the third transfer mod to the jug correctly it helps on the high end but at a cost of some low end torque and possibly weaker throttle response. Doing both mods well, both the window and third port will help throughout the power band. Cutting that port correctly really needs to be performed with machine mills. The piston window can be cut easily enough with hand tools.

This is my disclaimer - Other's results may vary from my own. If low end torque is of interest the simple reed and piston window is fairly inexpensive to try.

My first reed build & that was with both modifications took quite a few hours of riding before I really started to feel the full benefit of my efforts. I read a post on reed valve setups and that individual said the reeds are super stiff and need break in time to flex properly...makes sense though I don't know if he was correct as to the reason. My second reed engine was the same... took time to feel the benefit.

Also the bad part of using reeds...they can break, enter the engine and cause catastrophic damage! Big deal that.
Fuel mileage is really bad and running 80 miles a day your going to notice it. A peanut tank isn't going to make it round trip! I ride everyday year round but have eight motorized bikes to choose from so the drawbacks don't mean that much to me and I've put a lot of hours on the two reed engines without any problems , other than poor fuel mileage, but if I only had one motorized bike to get me around. I'd stick with simple till I could build another one to play with.

The heads and cylinders forum has several threads that deal with reed induction and I'd encourage anyone to read up on what's been tried and tested & not just rely on my experience alone and these past few posts concerning this topic.

Rick C.
 
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javy mcdees

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I slowly add upgrades as things break or wear out or just fail. Upgrading the engine with a 23mm intake and 19mm Dellorto Carb was the best mod I have done for more overall power. The smaller carbs ran good made some power and went 40mph as well but any resistance the engine would experience a drop in power, the larger carb just powers through hills, strong head wind, and accelerates much better than smaller carbs.
 

indian22

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Javy the Dellorto carb has worked well for me now going on eight years since I used the first one on a 66 cc CG & I've had a problem with only one of the clones...just wouldn't work, but the next one did. The same carb type, 19mm, has been used on every China girl engine since - stock or modified, as described, and it's been great. I'm not saying it's the best carb out there 'cause I haven't had a reason to try all the others; after switching to the Dellorto. Jet change is easy & once I find the right combo on an engine tune it's golden! As you can tell I jack with my engines a lot, but this carb is the last thing I fine tune on an engine build. I have a lot of confidence in the Dellorto. It may be good, better or best...but to me it's just right.

Rick C.
 
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