How does one take the clutch assembly out of the 4G?

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DasNasenloch

New Member
It should be as simple as taking out the center bolt (in a perfect world).

I keep throwing springs that afix the 3 clutch pads in place. So, I have ground down the clutch pads that surround the assembly. I have 2 other motors in which I can switch the whole assembly but I am unable to remove it! It sucks, but I must put back together what I have and ride off to work now... I can come to complete stop or it will die. I'm also worried if I'm doing any real damage to the motor by running like this.

Also, no instruction manual is available with the 4 stroke HS that I've seen...
 
If its always engaged,then you need to keep the speed down when going down hill to avoid over-reving the motor,and use decression on how long you run at high rpm the rest of the time,If it is 2 stroke the motor needs to be the pulling factor so brks will suffer some so the throttle can be open
I think that using the 2 stroke motor to brake the bike causes lack of oil mix to lube the inside the motor
 
On the 4G, you need a puller to get the clutch off of the tapered shaft. Running it semi-engaged like that shouldn't hurt it ( the engine), it's just a pita trying to start it like that, especially if it's stalling everytime you need to make a stop.

Get a puller and fix it as you could ruin the clutch if it's grinding parts of the broken springs inside. A new clutch or parts of the clutch will run you $7-$30 so you best get on it.

You want to use a puller that looks something like this:



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Holy ****... people replied? First, thank you! I was unable to find a resolution to my questions, until now. When I first signed up I was notified via email if I had any responses, but not this time. I have 2 other motors that I can pull the clutch assembly off of, but was perplexed why the **** it didn't come off after removing center bolt. AH! I need a puller. Even better, I have a pic of what one looks like!

Much thanks and one last question... where do I get one?

I just looked briefly on the net to try and answer my question of "where do I get one"? I found nothing...
I actually found something that I think would be awesome. I remember looking at the specs awhile back. A shift kit that runs through the derailuer? You guys ever gotten one? I wonder if they make one that runs off of the 4G yet? Also, I think only Sick Bike Parts makes one. Am I wrong?
 
"A shift kit that runs through the derailleur? You guys ever gotten one? I wonder if they make one that runs off of the 4G yet? Also, I think only Sick Bike Parts makes one. Am I wrong?"


Currently SBP is the only supplier of a 4-stroke shift kit. It is made to work with the HS 142F motor (that has the 5/8th in. X 1 & 1/4 in long shaft) and the Grubee II or III Reduction Gearbox or the Older Hoot Reduction Gearbox. It will also work with the 4G Belt Reduction unit that fits the HS 142F and the Honda GXH50 . The motor you describe that you have is the Newer version of the Clone motor called the HS 142F-CC it takes a different type of 4G unit. It probably can be mounted and aligned to the Shift kit mount, but you will run into problems getting the crank arms to clear the motor and reduction unit as this combination of motor and 4G Drive are approx 1.5 inches wider than the Honda and its 4G Drive unit.

ocscully
 
"Currently SBP is the only supplier of a 4-stroke shift kit."

I'm still learning and I like what I see at Staton Inc., a good family business in Oklahoma. Here is the link to the gearbox description page. They have pages with pic's as well.

Chain Drive

Their gearbox has a lifetime warranty.

Is this similar the the SBP gearbox?

.flg.
 
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