How can you reduce the noise from pedaling?

Rocky_Motor

Rocky_Motor

New Member
With my bike, its primary purpose is to use the motor to get to campus and from there pedal the bike around with no motor use while going class to class. What I noticed is that there is a large amount of noise coming from somewhere... I can't really pinpoint it. Maybe the tensioner? Maybe somewhere else? (I'm talking about the noise that you primarily hear when pedaling. not the ticking, that other loud thing I'm sure you are familiar with)

I knew there would be noise from reading posts, and I think I read that some reduced the noise by getting rid of the tensioner. I also know that a jackshaft would essentially reduce that noise to nothing.

In this case until my summer build, I wasn't going to get a shift kit. I could remove the tensioner if need be but it would be difficult in my situation especially since I don't use a masterlink. Is there any other way to reduce the noise or is my best bet to get rid of that ticking death roller so called tensioner.
 
It might help to describe what "that other loud thing" might sound like lol - but there's only so many things it could be... The chain could ofc be hitting somewhere, but I'll assume you've checked that. When mine makes excessive noise it's usually;

Scraping/dragging = clutch = adj cable or flower nut
Squeaking = actuator pin/bearing = dab o'grease
Rattling/ticking/popping = tensioner/idler = adj. chain tension

These are ofc guesses & may not match the sound but it's a start. If the engine drive chain is too tight it can cause excessive drag & noise, particularly over the idler/tensioner.

Some say rid yourself of the tensioner altogether, this is a valid option if your chainstays clear and you don't ride constantly - however some frames have interference issues and the tensioner/idler acts as a redirect as well as giving you the ability to quickly & easily perform maintenance, such as adjusting chain tension ofc - but it also can make it easier to remove the rear wheel to repair a flat or w/e, if you haven't a master link and/or don't wanna mess w/it on the side of the road ;)
 
Last edited:
Been meaning to make a spring tensioner or atleast something that won't fall into the spokes. Buut I'm not home to do so being back in school \=

I think the noise is the rattling. I don't notice any scraping or squeeking. Definately a sound that the chain is making. So sounds like my best bet is to make a new tensioner sometime soon. I'll reduce tension on it as you suggested, but we'll see how that affects the chain falling off or not. I know it is pretty tight right now. 1/2" I'd say eyeballing it.
 
One thing to try is remove the clutch cable stay under the carb, and fill the clutch shaft cavity with grease.

Also try lubing the 50 something clutch bearing in the primary.

Keep your chain lubed and adjusted.
 
Use a 415 TRIKE/ Industrial chain- same width as kit chain, but plates are shorter and rollers much better- REALLY reduces the extra chain noise- and WEIGHS almost half as much!

Runs quieter motoring too- and less resistence. It's gotta give you a bit extra speed.

and for about $13 shipped:
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=34585
 
Last edited:
Rocky Motor, did you ever have any luck reducing the pedaling noise? I want to use my HT for exactly the same thing-- drive it to campus, pedal around. There's no parking so it's really the best transportation option for me right now... and it's fun... and great mileage.

I've filed down where I suspect the chain was hitting in the clutch case-- that helped the tiniest bit-- but still sounds like what you're describing. I'm going to try to replace the chain with a KMC Z610HX, and perhaps remove the tensioner; we'll see how that works. I have high hopes... =)
 
BarelyAWake said:
It might help to describe what "that other loud thing" might sound like lol - but there's only so many things it could be... The chain could ofc be hitting somewhere, but I'll assume you've checked that. When mine makes excessive noise it's usually;

Scraping/dragging = clutch = adj cable or flower nut
Squeaking = actuator pin/bearing = dab o'grease
Rattling/ticking/popping = tensioner/idler = adj. chain tension

These are ofc guesses & may not match the sound but it's a start. If the engine drive chain is too tight it can cause excessive drag & noise, particularly over the idler/tensioner.

Some say rid yourself of the tensioner altogether, this is a valid option if your chainstays clear and you don't ride constantly - however some frames have interference issues and the tensioner/idler acts as a redirect as well as giving you the ability to quickly & easily perform maintenance, such as adjusting chain tension ofc - but it also can make it easier to remove the rear wheel to repair a flat or w/e, if you haven't a master link and/or don't wanna mess w/it on the side of the road ;)

There's a buncha tensioner/idler alternatives here BTW: http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=11815
Click to expand...


This is some great advise! I really like how you gave your best advised with the limited information of the problem itself. :-)
 
I for one eliminated the tensioner and the majority of noise went with it, along with a good bit of drag. The bike pedals easier now with much less noise. If you can get away with it (if your bike frame doesn't interfere with the chain when you are not running a tensioner) I would suggest you give it a try. I don't run a master link either, but cracking a chain is no big deal really, at least the way I see it. (if you run a heavy duty chain that is hard to break I suggest you shorten the cheap kit chain to fit first which is very easy to break, then match the length you end up with on your heavy duty chain) The position of the back wheel on my bike is not adjustable, and I had just a bit too much slack in the chain after shortening it. I made a couple steel shims to put BETWEEN the MOTOR and the rear motor MOUNT (NOT between the motor mount and bike frame). 1/2 links are also available for chains if you would rather go that route. I only needed to use one of the shims to tighten the chain up, about 400 miles so far and I dont have any tension problems. I am MUCH happier with the way my bike rides, both with and without the motor, since I have eliminated that funky tensioner. If you can't/don't want to eliminate yours, you might try building a spring loaded tensioner, or try using a modified roller blade wheel in place of the plastic tensioner wheel...
 
A couple of other things to "cheat" some clearance if you want to get rid of the tensioner-

a smaller sprocket gives a smidgen more frame clearance,because it doesn't pull the chain so far vertically if you're running a 44 or especially anything bigger, a smaller sprocket can give you more clearance- My 66 runs great with a 34 on flat smooth roads- and I don't have to rev it open for a great cruise speed.

And there's always axle spacing- and more leeway if you have a freewheel wheel- a spacer or a washer added to one side and put on the other can make a difference- often a 1/8" washer can simply be added or removed for as much difference-

you may have to adjust the spokes and rim and change the wheel "dish", to recenter the rim in the frame
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top