As I’ve said before, hey no problem about the English, as Dan says it is mostly the technical stuff hard to understand without seeing close up in person what your working on and talking about what you know about a situation. Like the picture with the intake routing.
The cracked area you mention in the keyway slot on the flywheel. That is just what these other people had mention to me could mess up the timing. They were talking about a mashed up, not cracked keyway, but it is all the same since the flywheel is not exact in position with the corresponding keyway slot on the shaft. Especially if the flywheel does not stay tight on the shaft and moves back and forth with respect to the shaft, while it is turning, that is even worse.
I am hoping when you get another flywheel that fits (as I say if economical) you probably can put the valve cogs matching the dot and line as it was intended. But something still has me wondering that if you say the exhaust valve opens just after the spark and explosion near top dead center of the power stroke, how can spark timing really have anything to change valve timing, it does not. The thing about the spark timing being able to be set and stay steady when a good flywheel is in place will maybe have the backfiring stop. The valve timing may be something that I don’t just have enough knowledge about, but I thought if it opened that soon you would lose power in the engine since the piston does not get pushed down the majority of the power stroke, instead the explosion gases just exit the exhaust.
On the other note about the adjusting the points, yes I have a vague idea about some engines adjusting the timing that way like on chain saws engines you say. Thanks for that info, I had a water pump with a two stroke engine that I may salvage for something and should I not be able to get documentation or even parts for it I may have a better idea of how they may work. It was in the trash, the engine part was stated as manufactured in Canada.
I had a Chevette car that I adjusted I think I remember both the points and the dwell angle on the distributor cap. The points set I don’t remember so clearly, but the dwell for the 4 cylinder I had the timing light and shone it on the flywheel and looked for the mark in degrees before top dead center. Think it was 8 degrees. You had stop the engine and loosen the hold down clamp on the distributor cap and then rotate it slightly one way or the other to get it right on the 8 degree mark after you started the engine again and checked with the timing light. All this was in vain for a while as I did not know till later after having tried resetting the dwell so many times, I am surprised I did not wear out the hold down bolt on the distributor cap. **** What it was, was a loose frayed crimp connector to the coil ****
That by itself, I suppose due to the varying resistance of the loose connection had made the (effective) dwell angle vary, even though the distributor cap had not moved at all. @^%* I was going down the 405 in Los Angeles and luckily I was able to pull over under a bridge when the engine was bucking. I fooled with the adjusting the distributor cap and it was not until I got home after getting back to Northern California I found it the loose crimp and redid it. I even did both crimp and solder then heat shrink to do the repair. Some places like in the alternator you cannot use solder, it would melt due to the heat. They I know spot weld the wires to the brushes. On a Ford Ranger they made it so you have to buy the whole voltage regulator with the brushes attached for $70.00 since they made it that way. Loose crimp connector also had me sucking all that was left in the battery when the crimp to the positive battery wire to the alternator was loose. I had to shut off the lights at night while going over an 8 mile bridge. I put on my four way flashers though. Then after a while the battery so low, each time the flashers went on the engine would slow losing power due to the colder spark. I had a battery powered separate emergency flasher I stuck in the back window and then ran the car with no lights other than that to get home. Whew!
A nice old Thunderbird my brother had used an allen wrench for adjusting the dwell on that engine, so you if careful could have the engine running and adjust it that sure is way easier than what the old Brigg’s have you do!
Another car I got to drive for a while I had to get accustomed to resting the side of my foot that was on that gas pedal, to the transmission hump. This steadied my foot; otherwise as it accelerated in 1st or 2nd gear manual shift transmission, I was shoved back in the car seat for just a moment. The next moment reverberation sets in and I am falling forward toward the steering column. Again and again it goes till you manage to fling you foot away from the accelerator. Then you can look back and see sets of pairs of patch out burned rubber marks on the street behind you. Pontiac Grand Sport with 402CI / 4 barrel Holly and also modified gearing down.
Those were the days!
PS Click an Clack are these two guys that take callers on the phone questions about car problems, but have fun making jokes also as well as giving advice. The name of the show is Car Talk Radio, and it is also on line. I've just noticed though now I suppose due to maybe fund limitations on possibly government funding and other, there are some fees beside just short clip of radio shows. I still have to look if you can just read the transcripts for free?
The link
http://www.cartalk.com/ct/review/index.jsp
http://www.cartalk.com/menus/show.html
http://www.cartalk.com/Radio/Overseas/
http://www.npr.org/worldwide/shortwave.html
Keflavik, Iceland Upper Side Ban 10320.0kHz Day 6350.0kHz Evening
My geography I think at best the Iceland shortwave station of NPR may get to Switzerland?
Also somewhere if someone out there knows how to find international radio broadcasts in various languages translated, the show may also be available that way.
Measure Twice
so when i get a new flywheel it should be ready to try out!
pix coming soon
