Homemade hub adaptor
- Thread starter jazz2561
- Start date
This is an old argument. Those who hate them and those who, like me, have never had a problem with the old 'rag joint'. I have a lot of miles on rag joints and have never had a failure or chain/sprocket issue with them. But I've also had sprocket adapters and one home made adapter and never had a problem with those either. It's all in the installation, or luck.
Tom
Tom
rustycase
Gutter Rider
No argument here...
2nd time around, mine is dialed in. NOT as much mileage as you...
The basic design, (not-with-standing the quality of materials), is a crude method of transferring power in a high-speed mechanism to cause wear, (catastrophically so), to a critical structural element: the spokes of the wheel, where they intersect the 9 mounting bolts.
As the rubber of the clamping mechanism fatigues and degrades from time and use, there will be continuous maintenance keeping the sprocket aligned laterally.
There is also the situation with the eccentric run-out and no metal spacer to physically hold the assembly in a firm, concentric position.
As I said, there's no argument.
It's all in the engineering.
I'll look forward to reviewing the thread you mentioned, 2door!
rc
I couldn't find that old thread. It's an oldie for sure and it's easier to just repost the photos.
I modified the center hole in the sprocket with a drill bit and grinder to match the shape of the disc brake hub and used a rag joint rubber as an outer spacer because the mount was thicker than the sprocket. I put a big 'O' ring behind the sprocket so it wouldn't be a metal to metal attachment. I fabricated the outer metal plate from a round electrical conduit junction box cover and screwed everything together then painted it.
This assembly has accrued over 2K miles and has never loosened or moved. Lots cheaper than a billet adapter but you'll need a disc brake rear hub to use the idea. Cutting the sprocket took some time but I used a high speed grinder, not a little Dremel tool.
Tom
I modified the center hole in the sprocket with a drill bit and grinder to match the shape of the disc brake hub and used a rag joint rubber as an outer spacer because the mount was thicker than the sprocket. I put a big 'O' ring behind the sprocket so it wouldn't be a metal to metal attachment. I fabricated the outer metal plate from a round electrical conduit junction box cover and screwed everything together then painted it.
This assembly has accrued over 2K miles and has never loosened or moved. Lots cheaper than a billet adapter but you'll need a disc brake rear hub to use the idea. Cutting the sprocket took some time but I used a high speed grinder, not a little Dremel tool.
Tom
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rustycase
Gutter Rider
That looks great, 2door !
I'm not sure you really needed the rubber in there, though... I think most mc's are metal-to-metal, as you say...
I did have one yamaha dirtbike back when that did have rubber blocks inside the hub that paddles from the sprocket fit in between.... some sort of vibration dampening sort of thing, I guess... don't know that it did any good, but it caused no problems, and we rode on very rugged off-road terrain.
I will see if I can gather up a disk brake hub, in my price range! lol
Your setup looks much more positive than a rag joint.
Best
rc
I'm not sure you really needed the rubber in there, though... I think most mc's are metal-to-metal, as you say...
I did have one yamaha dirtbike back when that did have rubber blocks inside the hub that paddles from the sprocket fit in between.... some sort of vibration dampening sort of thing, I guess... don't know that it did any good, but it caused no problems, and we rode on very rugged off-road terrain.
I will see if I can gather up a disk brake hub, in my price range! lol
Your setup looks much more positive than a rag joint.
Best
rc
Some of the Nexus hubs have a brake mount that might be able to convert to a gear mount.
Shimano Nexus Rear Roller Brake BR-IM80-RC
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