High revs

M

marts1

New Member
After about 300 miles my motor revs are quite high when I first start up the motor and then revs down to a somewhat normal rate, but still just a tad high. I use the choke until its warmed up to slow the revs. If I put the choke to full it will cease to run which kinda makes me think it is not an air leak. I have not checked for air leaks as yet because I have run out of WD and am not really sure of any other way to check and I'm thinking it might be something else. I have not done any mods yet. Any help at all whether right or wrong is much appreciated..trk
 
I registered with this site awhile after I got the motor so I knew very little other then what was in the manuel so a no to the rinsing of the tank. If rust looks a lot like sand then maybe thats what it was. Cleaned it all out of course and I took off the manifold I guess its called and it looked fine. I put some form a gasket on the join anyway. I was thinking if I still have the problem, as I havn't tested it yet, if the leak could be where the carb hooks up the the manifold. Hopefully I have the wording good enough here to be understandable.
 
In-line filters are a must with these things, the tanks are not lined, tend to be a touch rusty and mine is still spitting little bits of paint into my filter even after 700 miles lol

I shoulda lined it :p

It defo sounds like you got an air leak somewhere, tho I'd suggest sticking a lil o-ring in the carb where the manifold seats and checking/replacing the intake gasket with a real one (the stock ones are almost useless in most cases) - with two strokes you could be suckin' in air from almost anywhere.

Check all around both the upper and lower gaskets on the cylinder - lookin for "soot" or greasy nastiness near the head and base gaskets, often the headbolts weren't torqued properly at the factory and/or sometimes the milling process leaves a bit to be desired. Check the gasket seam where the two halves of the crankcase join and take a look at the base of the clutch's cable guide (nearest the clutch arm), this cable guide wasn't tightened enough on mine and was leaking a bit.

Lastly - there's the couple of bearing seals, look for excessive oil in your clutch housing and magneto, fortunately it's unlikely it's those with a newer motor.

Odds are it IS simply the intake manifold - specifically where the carb mounts. It's not a bad idea to keep an eye on the other stuff though ;)
 
It did come with a filter and do use it. Purdy cool you mentioned to check for oil around the cable guide as I had noticed oil there for the last little while and that was another thing that I tightened up last night. I will be testing the motor today if the weather allows and thank you for all the great advice guys. I'll be sure to let you know how it goes.
 
I just finished using an o-ring as instructed on a post from bikeguy and also screwed that clutch cable guide in some more not realising that it can be scewed in too much. Thought I had got some super comression for a minute there lol. Also broke down and got some WD40 today. Calls for rain and snow tomorrow but sunny on saturday. I got time so I actually glad to have this hobby. Was looking at some welding stuff today thinking I would like to make my own creation at some point. As long as the laws don't change much or not at all in this area I will definitly be going much farther with this stuff.
 
It is an addiction lol

Any luck gettin' it to run better? Don't let rain stop ya from riding, it's a great way to test yer electrical sys lol

BTW - I wanted to mention about the only thing WD40 is good for is cleanin' stuff, as a lubricant it fails in very short order. If you want a good general purpose penetrating oil that actually lasts a lil longer try PB Blaster: Amazon.com: PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst 16 oz. aerosol: Automotive

I know the can looks a bit odd lol - but it's all the engine techs here at the marina will use. As they're talking about combating dissimilar metal corrosion in a salt water environment - I believe em ;) Well, that and I've used it a bunch myself and it's ossum.

I dunno what you wanna use stuff like that for on yer bike, but if it's lubrication for cables or chains I wouldn't recommend it - none of the spray penetrating oils last long enough and there's such awesome cable and/or chain lube available it doesn't seem worth it.
 
Thanks BA for that info and you are right. Ive known about how pitiful WD is for qiute a few years which is why I didn't have the stuff in the first place. I only bought it for the purpose of testing for airleaks. Right now I see a little sun so I will go see how the bike is running after last nights work.
 
After 58 years of life I still learn something once in awhile and then there's that re-learn thingy which of course goes on daily for me..:)
 
carb cleaner spray works better than wd40 for finding airleaks, plus it cleans the oil and grease off way better. just keep it away from cheap paint, it'll take that off, too.

just be careful if you're cleaning out the jets and passages in your carb. you'll spray it in one hole, and the outlet will be aimed at your eyes. and carb cleaner is about the worst thing for your eyes. won't permenantly blind you, but it's no fun. ask anyone who's ever worked around carburators.
 
Thanks Bairco. I am wondering about what the term 4stroking exactly means, and I am wondering if I have a problem with it. I don't think I do as my bike will pull me up most city hills and will get me to 20 mph I think in reasonable time...maybe should be better..donno. I have also read how badly these motors run before breakin. My bike has run fine it seems to me from day 1. I have noticed no difference in torgue or top end and I have about 300 miles on it. My top end is maybe 24mph all stock.
 
4 stroking = a 2 stroke firing every other stroke, usually a sign of a too rich mix. Common for new motors to do it regardless of mix till everything seats, all the lil chinese motors will tend to 4 stroke when not under load.

If ya had a prob w/it ya'd know it lol. you're probably fine :D


24mph seems just a touch on the low side, you usin' a speedo or a GPS? Even if on the odd chance yer motor is taking a lil longer to break in than some - that just means it'll only get better by just riding it. Mine took quite a while, bout 200 - 250mi.
 
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It's the digital computerized speedo. Would much rather the non computer needle type but where I live its not to had. Just got back from a ride and sprayed the WD everywhere and found it seemed to me no air leaks. Might be I'll just have to put up with it. Not so bad after running for a minute.
 
hmm... well, if yer happy with how it rides after it warms up than perhaps it's ok *shrug* With mine - I didn't bother testing for leaks, I assumed it leaked like a sieve lol I added an O ring between the carb and manifold, made new gaskets out of a quality, thick gasket material and checked the torque on all the fasteners, re-adjusted my idle and all was well.

It could be your symptoms have nothing to do with leaks - unfortunately all we can do here is "best guess" it could be a slightly sticky carb slide, throttle cable - any number of lil things.

I like to tinker with mine every morning before work, I've even been known to pull over in the middle of a ride to fiddle a bit, readjust a cable or just listen to it for a mo. These things have a very pronounced personality and they seem to love the attention heh

I'm sorry we weren't more help - I hope you're able to figure this one out.
 
The clue I think is it will rev quite high for only about a minute, prob less and then go back to an acceptable level, still a little high tho. Something I havn't tryed or even looked at is the throttle handle and cable. These things that go wrong just makes it more interesting and a good sense of accomplishment when you do make things better.
 
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