Help runs for a few minutes and won't start back up again

scar11211

Member
Dec 31, 2017
38
7
8
34
Hi i've been reading a lot of post on this forum so last night i checked my magneto with a meter its good read 326 ohms, tried a new ngk b6 spark plug,opened the head it was a lil dark from the oil so i scrapped it off and cleaned it good i tighten everything up right then i took apart the nt carb cleaned the filter and moved the lil pin on the needle to the very top notch on the needle put everything back together took unscrewed the bottom of the muffler and tested it without it,i got it to turn on fast went around the block around 4 times n it just died while i was giving it gas half way down the block i let it cool down for half hour and went out again to test it, won't start it sounds like its trying to go but just won't pick up speed and the pedaling got very hard to pedal it any help please am losing my mind also i have a stock cdi and a high performance 1 i bought both tested good so it can't be that
20180116_124127.jpg
20180116_124110.jpg
 

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
4,032
155
63
USA
well, I might first try it with gas cap off in case the vent is blocked, but I see some shininess at back of head that might mean the gasket is loose

the carb is WAY too far off level, and may have float problems because of that too - I'd do some work at trying to get rid of the flat mounting plate and get motor low enough to use standard intake
 
  • Like
Reactions: scar11211

scar11211

Member
Dec 31, 2017
38
7
8
34
hey crassius, thank you for helping me i dismounted the motor to try and lower it but the bottom tube of the frame is thicker then the notch in the motor thats why i need to use the flat mounting plate i put on backwards and tryed to put the carb more level, here is the pic should i leave it there and tighten everything or flip the mount back the correct way also when its the correct way and that low the mount doesn't lay flat on the frame
20180116_182825.jpg
 

scar11211

Member
Dec 31, 2017
38
7
8
34
also i forgot to mention i tried the kit manifold n with it on the carb doesn't fit so i have to use the off set manifold
 

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
4,032
155
63
USA
carb doesn't look too bad that way, but I don't like that mount - simplest cheap fix would be to draw a mark on edge of flat plate just below where it touches motor, then take it off and put it in vise to bend bottom down a bit to just match angle of frame - then you might have to saw off a bit from u-bolt so it doesn't hit motor
 

scar11211

Member
Dec 31, 2017
38
7
8
34
carb doesn't look too bad that way, but I don't like that mount - simplest cheap fix would be to draw a mark on edge of flat plate just below where it touches motor, then take it off and put it in vise to bend bottom down a bit to just match angle of frame - then you might have to saw off a bit from u-bolt so it doesn't hit motor
i was thinking of taking a hammer to the bottom tube of the frame so it would then fall into the motors notch what do u think about that ? i just hope it solves my problem also could it be that my motor is over heating ? it's still in the break in period
 

scar11211

Member
Dec 31, 2017
38
7
8
34
carb doesn't look too bad that way, but I don't like that mount - simplest cheap fix would be to draw a mark on edge of flat plate just below where it touches motor, then take it off and put it in vise to bend bottom down a bit to just match angle of frame - then you might have to saw off a bit from u-bolt so it doesn't hit motor
crassius i tighten down the motor n cut the chain still wont start tried a new ngk b6 just took it out the pack n still no go and me like a dumbass decided to take out the needle from the carb to change the position n lost the lil piece that goes in the notches on the needle ,could i make something to keep it in place till i get a new 1 am waiting on a racing carb will it come with a new needle n piece ?
20180117_125238.jpg
 

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
4,032
155
63
USA
first, I do sometimes take an old wrist pin, put it alongside the frame tube, smack it well with a big hammer and get a nice dimple in frame to allow studs to go by - I wouldn't do that if frame was WAY too wide, but it works to get just a bit more clearance - note, that sometimes a longer stud needs to be made

second, any h/w stores sell assortments of small clips & you might find one to fit - otherwise, a small piece of safety wire can work too
 

scar11211

Member
Dec 31, 2017
38
7
8
34
first, I do sometimes take an old wrist pin, put it alongside the frame tube, smack it well with a big hammer and get a nice dimple in frame to allow studs to go by - I wouldn't do that if frame was WAY too wide, but it works to get just a bit more clearance - note, that sometimes a longer stud needs to be made

second, any h/w stores sell assortments of small clips & you might find one to fit - otherwise, a small piece of safety wire can work too
what should i check next it won't start at all my friend said it could be that i flooded the motor if that is true and the problem how would i drain it ?
 

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
4,032
155
63
USA
best way is to take out spark plug, unhook CDI, engage clutch and pedal a whole bunch
 

scar11211

Member
Dec 31, 2017
38
7
8
34
best way is to take out spark plug, unhook CDI, engage clutch and pedal a whole bunch
ok i will give it a try later, what will this do or what should i be looking for ? sorry i just don't know anything about mechanics just computers
 

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
4,032
155
63
USA
you should see a mist of fuel blowing out the spark plug hole - you're done when it clears up
 

scar11211

Member
Dec 31, 2017
38
7
8
34
you should see a mist of fuel blowing out the spark plug hole - you're done when it clears up
i held the bike up by the seat n rotated the pedals with my hand a it of really black oil am guessing came out the muffer n today i took off the gas tank and motor head and some gas leaked out still have it upside down so everything could just drip out also now i can't test it since i lose the lil clip that holds the needle inplace on the carb so am waiting on my new racing carb should of got here yesterday so hopefully the mailman gets here soon so i can put everything together n test it
 

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
4,032
155
63
USA
not sure - you'd have to check with whoever makes that one - if you have a standard CDI there, you might try it to see if it works
 

scar11211

Member
Dec 31, 2017
38
7
8
34
not sure - you'd have to check with whoever makes that one - if you have a standard CDI there, you might try it to see if it works
i put some hot glue over the screw n bare connector my new racing carb finally got here today so tomorrow morning am test it around the block i hope it runs :D
20180119_230319.jpg
 

scar11211

Member
Dec 31, 2017
38
7
8
34
i just went around the block and up and down the street pedaling like a mad man and still no go but i did notice there is no compression cause pedaling was easy, i checked all the nuts for tightness and all seems right so am stumped what should i check next ?
 

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
4,032
155
63
USA
I'd guess clutch slipping or head gasket problem as a blown seal usually still has a lot of resistance as piston comes to top.
 

scar11211

Member
Dec 31, 2017
38
7
8
34
I'd guess clutch slipping or head gasket problem as a blown seal usually still has a lot of resistance as piston comes to top.
i was looking under the head while its mounted and it doesn't look fully flush i can see small gaps in areas i tighten them n they seem really tight am see if i just order a new motor today so i can use cause i need to to go work might tear it all apart later n look at the piston rings and will take a pic of the head gasket looks good dont see any cracks its a thin sheet of aluminum
 

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
4,032
155
63
USA
the gap where the head fits is normal - there is a raised compression ring there to get a better seal