Help me design my 4-stroke Build

MysterySandwich

MysterySandwich

New Member
I already have a 4-stroke Robin Subaru Staton-inc friction drive, it's used and has been rained on a bit, but I think it's still reliable. (Anybody know how I can go about tkaing it apart/cleaning/regreasing the engine?)

The bike I would love to use is the Fito Modena GT

The only problem is that it has 24" tires, not 26" -- I can live with that, but there's a chance I wont be able to mount my friction drive on it.

Of course I'd remove the rear fender, and I asked bikebuyers and they said the space inbetween the tire and the frame is about 1". However, the mounting plate needs 1.5" of clearance

What do you guys think about how I'd go about getting the staton inc to mount ont othis bike?

Here's my idea so far... cut a notch onto the mounting plate so it would clear, but I'm worried that would compromise the structural integrity.
mountingplate_zps6a8692e9.png
 
Are we talking about the Robin-Subaru 33cc 4-stroke? Or a 7hp R-S 4-stroke?

A little more info on what exactly you are working with would be helpful.
 
Sorry, the Robin Subaru Eh035 on a Staton-Inc friction drive kit.

And Mike B, I think you might think I'm talking abotu a 2 stroke china girl, the friction drive kit from staton uses no u bracket for mounting. They mount similar to a rear bike rack.
 
MysterySandwich said:
Sorry, the Robin Subaru Eh035 on a Staton-Inc friction drive kit.

And Mike B, I think you might think I'm talking abotu a 2 stroke china girl, the friction drive kit from staton uses no u bracket for mounting. They mount similar to a rear bike rack.
Click to expand...
Yes the Staton fd uses a bent
Metal U bracket that the aluminum channel pivots off.
Are you talking about notching the 1/4" thick channel?
 
Okay I made a mistake, here's the mounting plate I need, it's the part on the far left.

Here's where the engine mounts on the rear
Rearrack_zpsdaaa9436.jpg


And here's where it mounts on the front, the pics are kind of confusing, but I tried my best
20131223_092136_zpsdc378601.jpg


So disregard my original post, I still fail to see the U-bolt, and that mounting plate is approx. 1.18 in, what do you guys think about me shaving some of that off to about .90in for clearance?
 
So, you want to notch the U bracket for tire clearance and remove the fender?

Why not just get a bike with uncluttered seat stays?
 
Mike B said:
So, you want to notch the U bracket for tire clearance and remove the fender?

Why not just get a bike with uncluttered seat stays?
Click to expand...

Yuhp, that's what I want to do, and I sort of have my heart set out on this bike, that's why.

BigBlue said:
Look at ThatsDax friction drive installation video. At approximately 2:00 on the 1st video, he is grinding away the U bracket to clear the rear tire. His kits are made of steel. I would only do this if the U bracket is steel and not aluminum.

http://thatsdax.com/INSTALL_FRICTION_DRIVE_VIDEO.html

Chris
AKA: BigBlue
Click to expand...

Like that! Exactly haha, thank you -- now I know it's plausible and won't weaken the plate too much.

I believe the statons are also steel, but I'll have to double check.
If it is aluminum, grinding away like that will cause it to bend (again) & weaken correct?
 
The Staton brackets are steel and tough thick steel too. As long as you don't have to remove more than half of it you should be good.

Do you already have the bike?
 
Ah great, thanks!

And no I don't have it yet, but I haven't seen any bikes that I'm interested in, so I'm thinknig of ordering pretty soon.
 
I am currently putting the Staton on an old Worksman. You can see it in the Cruiser section.

Before you pop for a new bike, check out Craigs list, I happened on this one for $75.
 
I had a look-see, it looks good.

And thank I'm actually browsing CL right now...not much in my area that strikes my eye, except maybe this townie http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/4251493010.html

Only problem is it's a bit tall, and got really thin tires...

EDIT:
Any input on this? http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/gravity/fsx_1.htm
A little more modest than the fito modena cruiser, but it looks like if I mount the friction drive the suspension moving around could mess with the engine...
 
That kind of suspension could work, the engine would move with the wheel. I don't think bouncing the motor around would a good idea though, not to mention shaking the gas tank.

Those 28 inchers are perfect for the happy time engines. I think they were designed for the "Flying Pigeon" bikes.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flying_Pigeon
 
Nice bike.

That would be easy to friction drive.

It really is better to have some room on the seat stays - :)
 
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