Hello from Mn.

[lonewolf65]

Well onto the next hassle.. Motor mounts glad I have a mill to use at work.. I test fitted the motor into into the frame and hmmm it dont fit...
I am not sure of tube name but the tube from seat down fits great well with a rubber strip it will fit perfect, how ever the tube from forks to crank not a chance. the stock mount is about 1 1/4 short of the frame and not wide enough for mounting bolts to fit around. I read about one from sick bike parts but it does not look like it will even close to working... I plan on making a similar mount with numbers closer to match the fit.. If I knew this project was gonna be so much work as hassle I may have passed on this. ... But I'm eyeballs deep into the expense side of it so will get thru it and hopefully enjoy my efforts.. I did find a cool idea for fender braces using angle brackets that I will use.. then some undercoating for rust prevention.. I sure hope I can get this thing done before the snow flies...
If anyone has any good pics of front motor mounts for a china motor on a nel louso I would love to see them!!! Until next post safe riding !!!

 

[curtisfox]

Rubber strip is a no,no. You want them solid mounted, there is a post on mounting some were, do a search. The tube you said is a seat tube, maybe this will help https://www.google.com/search?q=bik...i=nL_BWZO6IMOS6ASQ-reIAw#imgrc=9cn6-AAmt2u5fM:

...........................Curt

 

[lonewolf65]

When I was looking up motor mount styles I found out about the no rubber, I am guessing it will eventually degrade causing slippage??
I am gonna make spacer blocks and use the plate steel style... I hope to get some pics of the build and get them posted up... Thanks again for the comments!!

 

[curtisfox]

Don't forget to change all the bolts or studs to grade 8, save a lot of hassle in the long run, as the china ones are cheep junk............Curt

 

[lonewolf65]

Is there any part of these motors that are worth keeping??? I just got it back together now I gotta tear apart whole motor and replace all the bolts.??? I'll get it running them replace the motor with a good one I guess. Or sell the thing as it seems it's not worth all the work... Had I known all this beforehand I would never have done this... What a pain.... Thank you tho!!! I do appreciate the info. Any place to order all the bolts and student and screws as a kit or is this a search and buy from 20 different site???

 

[curtisfox]

I am just going by what others have done, as don't have one myself. Mainly the head bolts and mounting studs. Could try ACE Hardware. I know some are using threaded rod. Them little motors seem to run good and last after you get them all fixed and tuned........Curt

 

[lonewolf65]

Well after a 2nd failed attempt at trying to remove my steering stabalizer from my truck I decided to work on bike...
I got some mounts that seemed to work and fit pretty good however I noticed that the rear studs were bending as I tightened them up.

I also mounted my chain tensioner and found out I made it too long so will make a new shorter arm tmo at work. I also need to remove on e more link from chain possibly 2... then there is the issue of chain being too close to the fender.. I may need to bend the coaster brake arm so I can get the chain out a squeak farther and clear the fender. However the alignment looks pretty good as it is just clearing the tire by about an 1/8-3/16 of an inch, but the fender is in between that distance which spells trouble...
Well here are the pics of my progress...

Well I guess i need to learn more about posting pics... LOL
I tried to delete on pic then had to re upload then hit more options and went back and anyways Ill do better next time .​

 

[lonewolf65]

Ok I need help with the adding pics how do I delete a pic from post

 

[ZipTie]

First off your bike is looking real good. just so you know you can leave all the bolts alone in the engine. Curt was just referring to the engine mount studs mainly. Just don't over tighten stuff and you will be fine though. I've never had one issue. I've built 23 bikes now with 0 issues, because I am careful to not over tighten stuff. Just firm, and check them now and then. I always add lock nuts over the stud bolts and always use blue locktite and I've never had a stud loosen or give me problems. People break studs due to poor installs and over tightening them.
Your front mount looks real good from what i can see. All Huffys have a huge down tube and use the flat plate method to mount the engine.

You must always notch the fenders to clear the chain. I use a aviator shears and then put door edge guard plastic on the sharp edge of the fender. You always have to " S " bend the coaster brake arm to clear the sprocket. Even Cnc sprockets need to bend the arm a bit.

I feel i can build a reliable huffy motorized bike now in 3 hours flat if I have all the parts now that I am familiar with all the little must do things, the right parts and little tricks.
and by always installing front and rear pull brakes on a double handle. By never using that darn coaster brake I never have to adjust the rear hub and mess with cone nuts getting out of adjustment either.

you can easily delete pictures...in edit mode there is a delete button right next the the thumbnail at the bottom of the post. Bummer on the chain tensioner arm length. It's why if I can buy a quality part I do as I figure my time is worth something.

Please..get rid of that junky plastic roller wheel and replace with a skate board wheel with sealed ABEC bearings on both sides of the wheel. No grove is needed as its so close to the engine the chain cannot fall off it. That original plastic grooved wheel basically is a side to side wiggling no bearing action rolling disaster waiting to happen, and will cause you many problems. Also make sure you have a nylon washer between the arm and the engine mount for friction free movement when you get time, Menards has them.

Bike is Looking good lone wolf

 

[lonewolf65]

Thanks Ziptie.. I installed a bearing in tensioner from the beginning It has to move freely. will work on the editing... I was going thru the box of parts and found a part I have no clue what it is or where it goes.... It is on the pic of parts on booklet but not mentioned in the book... here are a couple pics includeing the oddball part??? Oh ???? where to get the wheel for tensioner...??? thrift store and get a pr of roller blades???

 

[ZipTie]

That black round thingy is what pulls the little sprocket gear off the motor and will
also install it as the engine sprocket has threads in it . It also can pull the big clutch gear off and install it. I've never had to use it.. so i am no expert on it...knocking on wood.

Your new tension arm looks stellar, you must be a good Machinist. Nice work.

I use ebay alot so I order a set of 4 Skate board wheels with bearings on ebay., I buy them in packs of 4 for like 6.99, they work so smooth, the diameter and the smoothness of the bearings and the perfect spring makes it all run and pedal like butter. From what I saw in your pict you need a better more dense wound one way spring, this also helps it all work well. That spring will stretch out fast and loose its strength.

I'm very happy to give you a skate board wheel and a correct spring and ABEC 7 bearings as I do have plenty of most spare parts if you want to get together, I also always have some builds around to look at. Let me know.

Here is a link for the wheels on ebay for reference and size. roller blade wheels wont work nor do long-board wheels.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-SKATE...hash=item20f977d361:m:m5XlGbdtzig_AksoTFV5rLQ

 

[ZipTie]

Below is a Close Up of the one way spring you need. Notice the lock nut on the engine studs also.
The white kit wheel plastic also self destructs pretty soon also. Ask me how I know

 

[lonewolf65]

Yes I would be interested in meeting... send me a message and we can exchange info I don't have enough likes yet and my ratio is too low...lol where can the wheels be bought locally and the spring???

 

[ZipTie]

Could Look up skateboard shops in our area. I've never purchased wheels locally. Before I started Getting Duluth cycle tensioners. I used to get springs from Menards or Lowes. In the bolt area of the stores.
Ill pm you Monday.

 

[lonewolf65]

Any special specs for springs. I got.mine at home Depot they are pretty strong but....???

 

[lonewolf65]

Hello again fellow riders.. Well I got it finished up and put a few miles on her yesterday, mostly up and down the ally and around the block. I replaced the tensioner wheel with a skate board wheel, should last a while.. I also did the fender mods using stanley corner brackets then used undercoating on inside... I do notice some noise from either the clutch or gears?? I did have an issues with the screw holding the crank gear on came off and the gear slipped off and key fell out, I got it back together .. hope it holds this time, fortunately I caught it right away and no damage.
I do notice that I cannot take off the choke or it will die, not sure if this is part of the break in process. I did get it up to 24 mph with a lil help... 24 mph seems pretty fast..lol the bouncing around managed to shake my headlight apart ,,,darn rubber mounts..
the bike fell over when I was working on the ger and broke my clutch lever so for now am using a brake lever, gonna try aluma weld Monday to see if I can fix it..??
Today I will get a few more miles on it and hope the performance improves... How long is break in period again... Oh and my chain needs 1 link taken out seems the top chain touches bottom chain and tensioner is maxxed out ... however not enough slack to removed one link, so will need a tiny bit more of stretch before I can take out one link,,,, unless someone has a better idea. I dont want the chain to bunch up and get stuck on the gear..!!
Happy and safe riding

 

[ZipTie]

I've been off the grid with not internet service for a couple of days, sorry. Glad you got a maiden run in. Sorry your having a couple of issues.
The front gear that came off could of been under a bit of stress from the rear sprocket slightly too far outbound.
alignment is pretty important. Or it was just loose to start with. Something to eye up good. Using a white string can help. If you have a cnc cam shell hub adapter its pretty easy to tweek. sometimes 1/8" or less Inch is all that is needed..

As far as the chain, Yes just remove one more link set. If you have a chain breaker/ setter its a great time to rivet the chain so you can do away with your master link. They can be un-reliable and I never use them.

Carb issue...Your needle clip probably needs to go down one more notch to richen it up a bit so it will idle. Did you adjust the idle screw? Never good to run too lean as it creates too much heat. you may have to install a bigger jet also once you get some road time in and can look at the plug and see if its the correct golden brown. Better NGK Plugs, Plug wire and plug wire cap can help to benefit performance.

 

[ZipTie]

Part 2 of response

Part of the fun on these motorized bikes is troubleshooting, and being able to make any needed repairs fast and easy plus super cheap in most cases as you are finding out.
However once shaken out they are very reliable.Having the the Chain right with a proper Tensioner like you built is usually the first stumbling block for most.

The grinding noise is most likely caused by the gear cover case as the dang chain rubs. I grind then down in a few key areas and the noise will vanish. There is a sticky in the forum on this and almost 100 percent of engines have this issue. I always just grind em down in the spots that it needs ahead of time.

If we get together fill you in what I do.
The chain will leave marks on the small sprocket cover where the chain is rubbing. I always have someone hold the bike up in the air or install a center stand so I can pedal it in place to listen for any unwanted noises and adjust anything till its smooth as butter and quite and everything is perfect. The less friction the better. It also lets me adjust the clutch as needed.
I've found these are my favorite clutch handles as they are longer for easier pulling and best locking mechanism.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alloy-Left-...ash=item4afcc2ea0d:g:oSgAAOSwiylXCGCF&vxp=mtr

A proper center stand or solid side stand is usually needed if you don't want tip overs. Stock kick stands are kinda floppy with a motor on there.

 

[lonewolf65]

As far as the carb it seems to idle just fine just not top end it bogs. but as far as choke It seems I cannot adjust very much or it dies...
I will move the clip[ down one notch and see how it goes... Yes I will be looking for a better center stand... Any advice...
Thanks a huge bunch!!!

 

[ZipTie]

Quote
I do notice that I cannot take off the choke or it will die, not sure if this is part of the break in process. I did get it up to 24 mph with a lil help... 24 mph seems pretty fast..lol

Lonewolf Can you clarify the carb problem as I'm a tad confused.You mentioned before if you close the choke. ( down position) it will die? Or does having the choke on make it run better on top end. Are you using the engine kit NT carb? It doesn't take much too confuse me at the last third of my total years. Lol.
Lol.