Hello All!

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourself' started by Hella Doodle, Oct 12, 2019.

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  1. Hella Doodle

    Hella Doodle New Member

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    I’ve been getting a lot of information from all of you and recently purchased my first 80CC engine kit. I decided to make an account as I’m sure I’ll need help from more experienced people. Thanks in advance and have a great day!
     
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  2. waynesdata

    waynesdata Active Member

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    Hello, good luck with your kit.
     
  3. xXNightRiderXx

    xXNightRiderXx Active Member

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    Hey there doodle! Welcome to the forum. Any questions you have, just ask. There's plenty of people here, myself included, who would be happy to help.
     
  4. Hella Doodle

    Hella Doodle New Member

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    Here are some pictures of my first build for my wife. Please provide me with any of your thoughts. Constructive criticism is wanted. I’m having an issue pushing it. There is so much tension trying to pedal that I knocked off the bike chain. I’m sure it’s a clutch issue. Is there anything obvious I’m missing?
    Thanks
    Doodle
     

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  5. xXNightRiderXx

    xXNightRiderXx Active Member

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    Make sure your clutch lever is pulled in and locked. Then, go to the clutch arm, make sure the cable is through it and push it towards the carb until you can move the wheel freely. Then tighten the bolt that may or may not be on the arm itself, but always clamping onto the cable.

    Those tensioners are dangerous. Often, they will move in toward the spokes, which can jam up the rear wheel, or destroy the spokes if you have enough power. The rubber joint holding the sprocket to the wheel also puts stress on the spokes, so Id recommend swapping to a cnc hub clamp as soon as you can. Get a chain breaker as well, so you can take out the spare links in that chain, and insert a half link. I recommend attaching it by its pin and a master link, so its easy to take out if your chain winds up a touch long.
     
    #5 xXNightRiderXx, Oct 14, 2019
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2019
  6. Hella Doodle

    Hella Doodle New Member

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    Excellent, thanks! Will try all of these things when I’m able to today. I know for sure I didn’t install the clutch lever while it was engaged in the handlebars.
     
  7. Greg58

    Greg58 Well-Known Member

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    Sorry to tell you this but you have to have the rear mounting point on the seat tube, one mount will not hold the engine.
     
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  8. Hella Doodle

    Hella Doodle New Member

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    Hmm am not sure what you mean? I’ve ridden the bike around and can’t budge the motor. It is fastened in two points on the frame as shown in the pictures.
     
  9. Greg58

    Greg58 Well-Known Member

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    No problem, the rear mount is not visible in any of the pictures. I didn't want you to break the front studs off when you released the clutch.
     
  10. Greg58

    Greg58 Well-Known Member

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    The cable lock on the clutch arm should be on the outside, that's what moves the arm.
     
  11. Greg58

    Greg58 Well-Known Member

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  12. Hella Doodle

    Hella Doodle New Member

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    Wife came first. But Now I got my own bike set up! I’ve been looking around for info on bike tire pressure and haven’t found a discussion regarding it. Going higher speeds than a normal bike, should I still fill the tire to the (mine says 40lb) max pressure? I’ve looked into the inner tubes that can’t pop. Has anyone used these? Is it overkill?
     

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  13. xXNightRiderXx

    xXNightRiderXx Active Member

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    I recommend tires that have a nice round profile, and can handle at least 50psi, but no higher than 60psi. I like to leave 10psi margin below the max for temperature fluctuations. I've found it provides the best compromise: cold ambient compresses the air in the tire, making it squish slightly more, compensating for the hardening of the tire. Hot ambient increases the pressure so it doesn't squish as easily, reducing friction and better taking advantage of the softer rubber. Assuming you don't get snow and ice. That's when you either slap studded tires on those rims or put er up for the winter.

    Puncture resistant tubes are very nice to have. Puncture resistant tubes, plus kevlar tire liners, plus kevlar reinforced tires, plus sealant, now that's what really ensures no flats. No such thing as overkill.
     
  14. Hella Doodle

    Hella Doodle New Member

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    Have put about 300 miles on the cruiser style and about 225 miles on the mountain bike. The throttle housing cracked on one of them so I replaced it. Now the bike is acting like the throttle is engaged (revs and moves once started automatically) and I can’t seem to find out why. I have taken it apart and reinstalled it as well as out of the carb and back in. I can’t seem to find a bind. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
     

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  15. Hella Doodle

    Hella Doodle New Member

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    On another note. I always thought it was odd I’d never seen a women’s (Huffy) cruiser with a motor mounted. Turns out there is not enough room to mount the gas tank below the handlebars. This leaves only the bike’s luggage rack as a viable mounting location. The problem with this is you need to elevate the gas tank about 4 inches so the gas will run to the motor since there isn’t a fuel pump and since the gas tank sits so low.
     
  16. Greg58

    Greg58 Well-Known Member

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    Throttle twist grips and housings are made slightly different between manufacturers, I've replaced the twist grip before and had to file off the plastic to let the carb close completely. That sounds like what yours needs.
     
  17. Hella Doodle

    Hella Doodle New Member

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    That makes sense. If I take the cable out of throttle and let it dangle loosely it still revs the engine. Not sure if that indicates something else or not. I’ll take a look at the housing here shortly and file anything that is prohibiting the cable.
     
  18. Greg58

    Greg58 Well-Known Member

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    The cable may be binding or the barrel in the carb is not closing all the way, or you have a vacuum leak.
     
  19. Hella Doodle

    Hella Doodle New Member

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    Seems to me like there is an an air leak. I have another 2 stroke bike kit with all new parts. If I swapped out the carb with a new one would this fix my air leak issue? Or would it help me to diagnose anything? Am still reading into air leaks.
     
  20. xXNightRiderXx

    xXNightRiderXx Active Member

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    Air leaks are generally caused by the carb not clamping onto the intake right, or by gaskets not seating between the intake and manifold. Try some caulking around the carb at the intake, filling in all the gaps. Then try gasket sealer on your intake gasket if the caulk doesn't fix it.
     
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