How does it run with the cover off and the foam out of the way?
It runs about the same Joe, the foam is pretty lame so it's easy to see that it would not make too much difference.
How does it run with the cover off and the foam out of the way?
sounds a little low but I think more important would be how does the engine sound and what are the roads like.
That black plug.the sign of rich running, could well be from the first carb... Still wait for the real mechanics to jump in. I would still check for an air leak around the manifold joint. It is simple to do and can't hurt. I have an o ring in the bottom of my joint and never had any more trouble from it.
Also how does it run with the choke on. That might be interesting to know. Mine bogs down after a few yards with the choke on to any degree. That's how it should act.
sounds a little low but I think more important would be how does the engine sound and what are the roads like.
That black plug.the sign of rich running, could well be from the first carb... Still wait for the real mechanics to jump in. I would still check for an air leak around the manifold joint. It is simple to do and can't hurt. I have an o ring in the bottom of my joint and never had any more trouble from it.
Also how does it run with the choke on. That might be interesting to know. Mine bogs down after a few yards with the choke on to any degree. That's how it should act.
It you had an air leak it shouldn't bog down. Still check it can't hurt. With the choke off it should run fine if it doesn't have a leak.
I wonder if you have slack in your throttle cable. did you ever adjust that little thing that looks like a buddist temple on top of the carb. If you don't have any air leaks try adjusting that thing. At that point you are at the end of my very limited amount of engine adjustment knowledge. keep after norman he knows more about these carbs than anyone on here.
Gently rotate your throttle with your thumb and index finger. If it rotates more than just a hair with no resistance before you feel the resistance of the cable, then the cable should be adjusted. Just unscrew the adjuster until the play is gone, then tighten down the nut to keep it in place. Just like adjusting your brakes.
I just finished adjusting the throttle cable on a diy bike. In mine I had to turn it a bit before it actually did anything at all. Then when I went all the way to the end of the throttle, I didn't have it wide open because the throttle had already played out taking up the slack.
If your engine responds instantly to the throttle then you are fine. It there is a some slack not in the tension but in the engine response I would tighten it. If it responds instantly then I wouldn't bother with it.
If you didn't find a leak and your throttle responds, you are past anything I know to do. Try Norman he knows everything about these engines and carbs.
by the way the pressure you feel on the throttle when the slack is out is the spring not necessarily the needle moving I think. At least that is what it was on my diy bike i worked on today.
When the needle was actually moving the engine responds. It ain't much but it's the best I can offer.
\Where can I buy a new jet for my carburetor? Would some place like NAPA have them?
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Maybe a scooter shop might have them, but best is delortodirect.com but shipping for 1 jet will KILL you.....you need a 5mm jet...... ~.60mm orifice
crabdance, have you tried opening up the air filter cover and maybe the baffle too? Or remove the baffle entirely? Both will lean you out a little and help with power.
Also, if you are running 32-36:1 you can make it lean out a bit by going to 24:1 mix.