Got problems, please help!!

Where in au do you live ,if it's in Melbourne maybe we could meet and I can help you with your issues ,their not to complicated to work out ,a little bit of ingenuity and some deep thought and you can work anything out with them ,as the guys stated a straight drive train is essential to a reliable ride
 
It looks like you need to use the large tube adapter for your front motor mount. There should have been one in your kit, a U-clamp like is used on car exhaust and a small metal plate that matches up to it. The plate fastens to the front mount studs, then the U clamp goes on the other side of it around the frame.
 
I live in Sydney so i can't do that, but thanks for the offer, I had another bike which needed the U-Bolt extension piece so i got rid of that bike and put the engine on another bike it fits over the front and back it is just that the two front double sided bolts are bent and cracked because they are cheap, but i am getting new good quality ones today or tomorrow, but i ran it this morning and it moves a bit so it can run with only two front ones but i won't continue like that. Also my chain tensioner will need adjusting can anyone help with the best position for it, because when i have it on and the engine is on the chain comes off it (sometimes) and makes the chain loose but it will stay on it while it is a normal bike.

Thank you everyone for your support and help!
 
Ok it's a bit hard to explain the correct position and how to straighten to match the rear cog but here goes

First the closer to the engine you can place the tensioner the better ,you can see from my photo I have mine placed around 5 to 6 inches away from the rear of the frame

You need to align the freewheel on the tensioner so it is in line with the rear sprocket because in its factory form it will kink off to the right somewhat if you are facing it and constantly kick the chain

It's simple to do I'll explain in next post
 

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Now because of the design of the frame the chain tensioner won't correctly align to the cog and we need to correct this

Simply take off the freewheel on the tensioner whilst it is attached to the bike ,place a tool or bar into the slot where the freewheel attaches to the tensioner and give it a twist towards the rear cog , then place the freewheel on but don't bolt it on ,check by eye if it is aligned with the rear cog and if not continue to twist until the freewheel is aligned

From the pic in this post you should have an idea of how this is done
If you still can't work it out let me know and I'll do a small tutorial video and post it to YouTube
 

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You can see from this pic why the tensioner has a slight twist to it ,because the attachment point for the tensioner is not parallel to the sprocket or cog , you need to twist the tensioner so it is parallel with the cog or you will suffer with constant chain kicks and unreliability
 

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I would not ride a bike that has broken or missing mounting studs, except to get it back home. Having only one mounting point will cause too many problems, it can break the studs due to flex and it will make the chain come off. Vibration will be real bad also, do not use rubber between the mounts and frame the engine needs to be solidly mounted. On a new build I install the tensioner at a location that suits the frame, usually close to center between engine and rear sprocket. Roll the bike while watching the chain as it roles over the tensioner, if it rubs on one side you need to bend or twist the tensioner to try to get the chain to run center.
 
So I got a piece of threaded rod today the same width as the original studs, I cut it up to the exact length of the studs 2 large and 2 small, just to be sure does the long go at the back and the short at the front.

Also with both the front and one back I put bolts that had a larger width and jammed them in, the front ones are still holding but the back has stripped the inside and the front will soon follow. To put the original widths back in the holes what should i use: epoxy, red loctite, blue loctite or something else

NOTE: I think the larger ones were about 1mm to 2mm bigger and may have a different thread
 
Which is the best place to get 6mm helicoil in Australia NSW. Also would you be able to explain how you use it and how much it would cost.

Thank you,
Lachlan Fullagar
 
Helicoils come in a kit, with oversize tap, inserting tool and helicoils.
You run the oversize tap in to the damaged thread, and use the inserting tool to insert the helicoil. The helicoil looks like a stainless steel spring.
I've had my helicoil kit for about 20 years, I have no idea how much they are these days, but a good investment if you like playing with old motor cycles/motorized bikes.
I'm sure the kits are available at most auto parts retailers.
 
Can you tell me if the photo is the right thing and that is a 6mm X 1.0 is that right?

Thank you for your support
 

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Here in the U.S. If you buy coils the instructions tell which drill to use, it will depend on what the supplier recommends .
 
I was watching a video of how to install motor mount and he was using nylon nuts do i have to use this i know it is better but by how much, I can still get some. I think I have lost about 2 from the kit.
 
Nylock nuts are more resistant to loosening from engine vibration. They are good insurance on any motorized bicycle build.
Keep in mind, for items that get taken apart a lot, Nylocks will wear out if used too often. But for a permanent place like a motor mount bolt, it's a good idea.
 
maniac57 said:
Nylock nuts are more resistant to loosening from engine vibration. They are good insurance on any motorized bicycle build.
Keep in mind, for items that get taken apart a lot, Nylocks will wear out if used too often. But for a permanent place like a motor mount bolt, it's a good idea.
Click to expand...

I have to agree with this 100% I use nylocks on my mounts as well as on my fenders for a bit of insurance , on every build I've done (all 3 of them lol) I've never had a single mount come loose

Regards Hen
 
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