Magura Gustav M discs (which performed best in the test but failed at 1100W dissipation) are still just about the stoutest available. At that time the used (I believe) 180mm rotors. An equally sturdy 203mm rotor would offer 13% more braking leverage and heat rejection with the same caliper. That means it fails at 1240W instead. It's not an overwhelming difference.
Chalo
Based on a data sheet that is going on 10 years old! Where you nonchalantly drummed up your own percentages?
Here is what you left out... A whole lot of technical advancements have taken place since 2001. We are in 2010 now. Brake calipers have greatly improved and so have the pads. The materials have greatly improved. Percentages based on here say to a ancient test 9 years ago does not totally wash. There are too many moot points I personally suspect there. Dunno?
Cars use a myriad of different compounds in there pads and there is always some advancements taking place. Disk brakes closely follows automotive philosophy and use many of the same materials.
As a auto mechanic I can say I have observed this hands on in just the last 9 years alone.
There are pad arrangements I suspect that make things run cooler now!! If not. There is much less fade.
In my observation, 203mm rotors tend to be spindlier than the old Gustav M rotor, larger but with no more surface area. Magura now offers the Gustav M with a 210mm rotor.
Chalo
Sure this sounds like a great brake!
There is no substitute for heat capacity to dump energy into, and surface area to reject it from. A 203mm stainless steel rotor weighs about 180g and has a specific heat of .5 joule per gram per degree C. A Velocity B43 rim weighs about 770g and has a specific heat of .9 joule per gram per degree C. And the rim has much higher thermal conductivity, and it has many times the surface area, so it can absorb a lot more heat and reject it many times faster than a disc rotor.
That's why disc brakes can work so impressively at modest loadings, but fail long before rim brakes that seem unimpressive by comparison. They're perfectly adequate for normal size riders on normal weight bikes moving at normal bike speeds. Turn up the energy levels from there, and you can have problems.
Chalo
My experience with a disk brake that I suggested only go to what I have found that works. The two brakes that I mentioned and suggest are more than adequate for me and what I have demonstrated.
I find a 165mm rotor to be more than adequate for the rear brake on my mountain bike. I use a 9" (229mm) hard anodized aluminum rotor on the front. The thick aluminum rotor has more heat capacity, as well as more surface area to reject heat and more mechanical advantage at the caliper. But that's appropriate for a front brake that can apply at least three times as much braking as the rear.
Chalo
I would say this defiantly is true. However I like the ability to lock up the rear and gently dump a bike if I have to. I prefer a larger rear disk. Yes 80 % percent of the braking always gets done on the front. This is perhaps what you were trying to demonstrate here.
Because the physics are contrary to your experience, I chalked that up to peculiarities with your equipment. I already showed you how a good rim can soak up seven and a half times as much heat as a 203mm rotor, and pass that heat to the air several times faster. And I have shown you tests that demonstrate disc brakes fail at lower energy levels than rim brakes.
So I have to conclude that your rim braked wheels were simply not the equal of your disc braked wheels.
Chalo
Well lets see I told you that I had the pads hot enough to see obvious smoke vapors. At the time of my observations I had a Avid BB7 203mm in the front and a V brake in the rear. To make things perfectly clear I was doing panic stops from 30 miles an hour. Why one should know there limitations. Total of one test stop did it. I had no fade from ether brake at the time as it was a one time panic stop. Not multiple. To check them immediately again the rear had faded more than the front.
Now to make it perfectly clear this was an absolutely straight rim when I did it . The rear pads were absolutely to the letter of
Adjusting Direct-pull Cantilever Bicycle Brakes ("V-Brakes ®").
So I observed a warped rim from this kind of stop. An aluminum rim on more than one occasion. With more than just one rim.
Now to make it perfectly clear I have yet to warp any of the two 203mm disk brake set ups that I have mentioned as being decent brakes for me. How ever I have got them them hot enough to fade on a much heavier bike the Morini. [Extreme ridiculous braking] They still complimented constant play full driving without any prob's for me and could easily do any panic stop in the city.
With cars I am drawing a clear picture here. On lighter cars especially if you tighten the lug nuts unevenly it only takes about two weeks to get a pulsation from a warped disk rotor or one good panic stop. That is why we are supposed to torque our lug nuts evenly. Think of a guy improperly using a impact wrench. Now a bicycle spoke rim never really has evenly torqued spokes. I said my wheels were perfectly straight remember.
Disc front wheels are dished, therefore weaker than equivalent symmetrical front wheels. Disc rear wheels have narrow flange spacing, therefore less stiffness than conventional rear wheels.
Chalo
This is a great thing to bring up but I think if more folks use thicker gauge spokes it is a bit of a moot point.
So if you and all the weight of the bike get trapped at the hub's say the rim brake is involved at the tire. Now all your weight and inertia is being transferred directly into the hubs and spokes.
So if you use a disk brake all of your weight and inertia goes to the same place
Those guys are not immune from getting things wrong. In this case, they were wrong. A disc braked wheel must be built with a stronger rim and/or more spokes to be equally as strong as a given non-disc wheel. Fortunately, most of them are built that way.
Chalo
You are not immune your self
As well as I
No-- the energy levels are too high and the tires too fat to make rim brakes a good match.
Chalo
At which point I think a bicycle with a motor on it can enter this category. My Morini with straight wheels to this day.. has not been all that bad. While I would adment with any of these said brakes coming down off the crest of say the Sandia Mountains would be particularly foolish and does not fit my agenda for such riding. A 50cc motor can only take so much of a beating when perhaps it should be let to cool off as well.
You make some fair points. I think with some common since all these brakes do there job.
Yes a rim brake has more leverage, it still is not bullet proof non of this stuff really is.
While we were waiting for an ambulance the ride leader pulled the front wheel out and took the tire apart. The tube had begun to melt in several places.
Just saying anything can be used out of proportion.